ktm

Ron Tyler and I talked briefly on the phone this afternoon. In the interest of expanding our collective knowledge, I'll post the questions here for open discussion. 1) If you do not have a heater core, why not block off the outlet at the rear of the head on the passenger side near #6? If you look at the block, there is a large coolant passage at this area. Wouldn't the outlet in effect cause a "short cycle" with regards to the fluid flow? 2) The idea of tapping the head above #5 and #6 exhaust ports into the coolant return gallery that feeds the lower thermostat housing is a good one. However, where should the coolant from these taps be returned? Should they return back to the water pump inlet or the radiator? 3) I just had this thought. The coolant system is pressurized at operating temperatures. Why not use this pressure to drive coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the block drain plug? 10 psi of coolant pressure is roughly equivalent to 20 feet of hydraulic head. Discuss.

Exactly.

z-ya, I do not have a heater core. I have the return line where the coolant leaves the head to go to the core, and that returns to the water pump inlet like the stock configuration. The lines to the head enter at the pump and return via the thermostat housing.

I would rather spend $80 and replace a head gasket than sink ringlands. I just need to tune for California gas. Brian, I am not going to run a manifold, but I am going to tap #5 and #6 and to get the hot coolant out faster.

Oem

Need more info on the turbo: compressor trim, exhaust wheel, exhaust A/R. You need to look at the compressor maps to see if the turbo is a "good fit" for the 2.4L engine. For instance, T03/04E, 50 trim, 0.63 A/R exhaust, stage 3 wheel.

Why is this not a sticky?!

z-ya, I am using the LS-1 coil-on-plugs in a fully sequential configuration. I was at 20 degrees at 15 psi and slowly worked my way up. The detonation is only occuring on cylinders #5 and #6 which are known to run hotter than the rest. Cylinders 1 through 4 showed no signs of detonation. I also have a 24x12x3 FMIC as well and my IATs hover right around 100 degrees F. Now that I am running methanol 100% of the time I should no longer have an issue. This last head gasket was run on a combination of 91, a 50/50 mix of 91 and 100, and 91 plus 100% meth. I was working the bugs out of my meth injection setup (not tuned for it yet, just trying to get the PWM and fail safe switching working correctly) and occassionally Wolf would switch maps (a grounding issue with my pressure sender and settings in Wolf as well) to my fail safe map which was identical to my normal map (for the time being). On my fail safe map I am only on 91 octane so I would hear it ping. In the end my luck ran out, but it was not due to overly aggressive tuning but rather tuning for the wrong quality of gas. This is a good lesson for folks who drive their cars from out of state into California.

Ron, it's a 3 core brass radiator with Flex-a-lite 210 (dual) fans. I am running 100 % distilled water with Redline's Water Wetter. Cooling has not been an issue lately. At cruise the fans are off; when idling at a stop light they will cycle on and off as they should. I say lately as I had an issue about a month ago where the fans were constantly running, even when cruising. Turns out it was a bad thermostat. I know exactly when I popped the gasket (this past Thursday).

No photos this time as the wife is out of the country with the digital camera, but those of us familiar with this issue know the skinny. I lost my third head gasket at #6, with #5 showing signs of detonation as well. The two water jackets on the driver's side of #6 were both compromised and the gasket was deformed towards the drivers side as well. This one came as a surprise as my AFRs are dead nuts on (12:1 from 10 psi on, 12.5 from 0 to 10 psi) and my timing is not aggressive. However, I believe that it is the California 91 craptane that is responsible. I just can not run the standard timing on California 91. I am running 24 degrees at 15 psi on a stock L28ET bottom end. I am now running meth injection and that has helped considerably. I will pull 3 degrees of timing on #5 and #6 on my primary map as well as my fail safe map at 15 psi. On a few positive notes, I can now pull the head in 1 hour and 15 minutes. I also ordered one of Justin's flanges and plenum bases and will port match the head and ceramic coat my downpipe.

It is a known phenomenom with the 240z tachs and their inductive loops. Check over at www.classiczcars.com for more information. It only affects the 240z tachs. When I was running a 240z tach, it would slowly climb up to redline and then stay there when it was hot out. As soons as it would cool down, the tach would function normally.

I have had bad experiences with aftermarket fuse blocks when pushing more than 20 amps through a circuit. My electric fan kept melting the bus it was on. Six Shooter, no one is mentioning using auto-reseting circuit breakers for the very reasons you posted. If the circuit trips, it is tripping for a reason. However, I can see the appeal of using a manually resetting circuit breaker. I just keep a butt load of fuses in my car.

Ron Tyler and Hugh both setup circuit breakers when installing the Wolf ems. I went the fuse route, but I put my electric fan circuit on a circuit breaker.

You are wrong. Your inexperience is what makes you believe the L6 motors are not reliable.

1) Why are the moustache bar nuts removed? 2) Why is your front differential crossmember removed? It looks like it's been MIA for a while based on the rust. 3) Have you checked the torque on the nuts? 4) Bushings.

I just did the Z32 swap and encountered this issue. However, after adjusting the master slave to clutch pedal adjustment, adjusting the clutch pedal stop and adjusting my slave (I have an ealry slave), I have no problems now.

Sweet merciful crap that is a big turbo.

SOC, thank you for doing all of this testing. I believe that the results are still a bit skewed because of the difference in boost pressure. More pressure = hotter air charge. Edit: "I'm not really suprised the 6061 piping performed better. I don't think anyone is really. However what i did find interesting is what happens after you shut the throttle. I will have to go back and look at both cars deccel enrichment settings, but the car with mild steel piping has it's IAT readings shoot up when the throttle closes, where as the 6061 piped car has its IAT readings go down. Now this could be the steel pipes being heat soaked and dumping it all into the engine which now has no fresh supply of cooler air so the charge temps go way up, this could be because the deccel enrichment settings are completely different, etc... not really sure." This is really surprising. The temperature climbed another 22 degrees with the throttle shut! That is huge. Remember that eventhough the turbo is not boosting, the engine is still getting cool air though not at nearly the same flowrate. As for deccel enrichment, I am not sure how this would cause an increase in IATs. You IAT is not affected by the combustion temps in the cylinder unlike CLT. If you do any additionaly testing, try pulling over immediately after the run and measure the skin temperatures of the aluminum and mild steel piping.

jacob80, my recommendatino would be to hit up www.classiczcars.com for advice about refreshing the L24. Hybridz is dedicated to the modification of the Z and does not really address basic mechanical questions. Classiczcars.com is a great resource as well and it is my opinion that they are more knowledgeable about the 240z and L24 as a whole than here.

Thanks for the update Justin!

Sorry I missed this question. I do not remember the years, but I would venture a guess at 87 to 89 or so. If you remove one of the injector clips and compare it to the Supra injector, you'll see that the slots on the injector clip on are the wrong "side".

Thanks for the photos. I've been eyeing this same unit but did not know how or where it would fit under the dash. I removed the old blower motor and heater assembly a while ago and thought about mounting it there as you did.

It was a SS brake line. The best I can tell right now is that it may have been rubbing on something as it is split in the middle. I'll check it out later and make sure.

...and it was a new part. I am talking a COMPLETE failure with brake fluid puddling under the car while it idled in the driveway. I was out for 4 hours today in the car, some places VERY remote, and the car drove beautifully. I get home and sit in the driveway idling as I tinkered with some settings on Wolf and suddenly I lose all brake pressure. I can only laugh now and wonder what is next.