ktm

You have a 1978 280z. You aren't (legally) going to be able to do any swaps. I am running a 3" downpipe to a 3" exhaust, no cat, no resonator, through a Borla XR-1 straight through muffler. Sounds great and is not obnoxiously loud. However, I am running a turbo as well.

I would like to add Borla XR-1 to that list as well.

Phil, I know how you feel. TRUST ME, I know EXACTLY how you feel. It's funny you say that you are thinking about selling the car, as I said the exact same thing after: 1) Blowing a head gasket in October 2007 right after I got the swap running correctly after 9 months downtime. 2) Blowing a head gasket again in November, had the head rebuilt. 3) A brand new Walbro fuel pump failed on me leaving me stranded. 4) Shifter pin broke leaving me stranded. 5) Lady hit me and destroyed my Kaminari air dam. 6) Having a lifter back out on the rebuilt head and destroying a cam lobe. 7) Fix the lobe and have the turbo blow up and I mean BLOW UP. I broke the shaft. 8) Had the turbo rebuilt and then blow head gasket number #3 due to detonation while trying to get the FJO racing meth injection setup working correctly. All of the above happened since October 2007. My advice is to not over-react and just give it some time.

"1/4" NPT ports above #5 and #6" I came to the same conclusion about the size. A 3/8" NPT tap results in HUGE hole just to have a true -6 I.D. So I am going with a 1/4" NPT tap with -6 lines. I am feeding my turbo from the by-pass line on the lower t-stat right now. Tony and I talked about my plans and he suggested running the turbo feed line from #5 and not #6.

Sheesh, yet another thread after I searched "rsx seats fit 240z" http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122722

A little electrical lesson for the day. Smoke = heat = resistance. What this means is that you are seeing smoke (wire insulation cooking) because of very high temperatures in the wiring. The high temperatures in the wiring are caused by high resistance in the wiring and connectors. High resistance can be a result of poor contact between connectors either by gaps and/or dirt, corrosion of the wires/connectors, improperly rated wiring (unlikely), etc. Good luck.

You need to do more than simply install a higher horsepower engine with that $10k: 1) Suspension 2) Fuel System - I am assuming the L28 in the car was NOT fuel injected nor was your fuel system upgraded for FI. To convert a 240z to run FI (properly), you need to upgrade your feed line from the tank, electric FI pump, FI fuel filter, tank modifications, FPR, fuel pressure gauge, etc. 3) Exhaust 4) Engine management, only applicable to FI. If your L28 was carb'd, the least expensive solution is to rebuild the L28, and for a kid in college this is the route I would take.

katman, that actually makes more sense than the "dilution" description I heard previously.

Understood. I was thinking about tapping the head above #5 and #6 exhaust ports as discussed earlier in this thread. I would then run the #6 line to the turbo coolant inlet; the #5 line would run to the lower t-stat housing where the turbo previously connected. Thoughts? Yep. I was typing too fast. I made a similar statement to x64v when he stated that the cooling system was equally pressurized. As you stated that the pump inlet, by definition, is the lowest pressure point in the system, the pump outlet, by definition, is the highest pressure point in the system. After I posted my response, I thought about the statement some more and realized this point. So we are in agreement regarding how the coolant is flowing, its general flow path, etc. The question at hand is how to improve the cooling. I was really hoping someone would chime in on my idea of tapping the block right after the inlet port in the block (right after the pump outlet), and running a line from the tapped port to the port in the back of the head.

I keep passing by your office on the corner of Irvine Blvd and Bake. I was wondering if that was the same Koyorad.

Pete, I believe Tony is suggesting to block the head connection all together and tap the head above #5 and #6 and run those lines to either the lower t-stat housing or the radiator.

It is part of the emission control system on the L24. They are air injection ports that were connected to a belt driven "smog pump" that injected air into the exhaust. It was simply to help dilute the exhaust before it left the tail pipe.

Justin, why is it that you can visit Hybridz, even as early as an hour ago (present time is 4:10 PM PST), yet provide no update as to the shipping status of the flanges? You have ignored my last two PMs, you have ignored this thread for nearly 3 weeks, yet find time to post in other threads.

Tim, what Tony said. It is routed back to the inlet side of the water pump. One more thing. It does not matter what the pressure is at the lower t-stat housing for the turbo coolant line. The turbo is lower than the t-stat housing and so is the pump inlet. Water will flow from the lower t-stat housing to the pump inlet by gravity (and siphoning if it must). Actually, the lowest pressure point is not the lower t-stat housing but most likely the top of the radiator once the t-stat opens. Tony, what about tapping the block at the pump outlet/block inlet (where there is a nice flat area on the block and a nice big coolant passage) and routing that to the heater outlet by #6? Also, this statement: "Really, the only time there is real 'suction' at the water pump inlet is before warmup. Once the coolant expands and you build some static pressure against the cap, the pump in merely imparting flow to a system that gets pressure from restrictions along the way." Is confusing me. I was a wee bit tipsy last night thanks to Mr. Walker and glossed over this statement. The system does not get pressure from the restrictions but rather loses pressure at each restriction, roughened surface, transition, bend, etc. The pump must over come these losses by developing pressure at the pump outlet so that the water will flow.

Thanks Tony. Your explanation regarding the pump operation makes sense. As far as the other heater shunt, you confirmed what Ron Tyler and I discussed. I thought blocking this line off would be benefitial as well as tapping the head and returning it to the radiator. I can not return it to the lower t-stat housing as that port is used to feed coolant to the turbo. Thanks again!

Mark, I know he will come through....eventually. It's just my nature to be.....demanding (in a good way). I manage capital projects exceeding $40 million to $50 million a year, projects that have considerable schedule contraints and impacts, etc., and I just can't turn that side of me off (unfortunately). When I am dealing with over 50+ vendors, contractors, consultants, regulatory bodies, internal colleagues, superiors, etc., I do not have the time to give 2nd, 3rd and 4th chances. It's a weakness of mine (being unable to turn that side off).

Ok, first of all in response to you last post, you know its knock. As Clifton stated, adding fuel does little for knock resistance. You need to pull timing to mitigate knock. If 97 octane eliminated the ping in 1st and 2nd, then pull timing! I know you said you pulled timing, but maybe you did not pull enough. You may not be blowing your HG because your boost pressures are low. I kept popping mine at 15 to 17 psi with detonation. It never popped due to detonation alone. It was always coupled with a high boost event.

The shipping quote sounds about right. When madkaw shipped me his old Kaminari air dam, it was around $110 if I remember correctly. The boxes to ship items that large are not cheap nor light.

Justin, your lack of response is disheartening. Three weeks ago (the Hybridz post dating system is odd) you posted you received the flanges and not a single update since. I know you are busy, but even busy individuals who visit the site and take the time to post can spend 30 seconds and update everyone. Boxes are not hard to come by, especially for something like the flanges. Simply go to Mailboxes, Etc. or Staples. Try finding boxes to ship wheels with tires.

Good luck finding a cheap electric speedo. I am in need of one myself since I converted to the Z32 TT 5-speed. I keep hoping to find a used one on Ebay with a Buy It Now, but no luck so far.

cygnus, I echo bjhines comments. I love that steering wheel and the BMW seats look superb.

zmaster, many times people (such as myself) rotate gauges so they can see the values that matter. For instance, my boost and AFR gauges in my car are upside down and slightly cocked. This is so I can see the correct values when I am in the drivers seat.

I just had another thought. I am thinking of the coolant flow in terms of differential pressures throughout the head. Could it be that the coolant in cylinders #5 and #6 does not actually return to the lower thermostat housing but rather exits via the heater port at #6? The pressure in that hose, especially where it connects to the housing at the front of the block, is going to be lower than the pressure in the head. Reason being is that it is connecting to the inlet side of the pump. The pump is "sucking", or creating a negative pressure, in that line. The pressure in the head around #6 is going to be lower than the pressure at #3, and #3 less than #1 as a result of the increased frictional losses at each cylinder. If the losses are great enough around #6, it could be conceivable that there would be deadspots in the head where equal pressures meet. The lower pressure area provided by the heater port would cause a preferential movement towards the port.

Not necessarily. The water in the block moves from #1 to #6 through the block. The water, once it enters the head, circulates around each chamber. The water entering the head at #6 is hotter than the water entering the head at #1. The water in the head at #6 does not recirculate back through the head to the #1 cylinder and then enter the lower t-stat housing. It enters the lower t-stat return gallery that Monzter's sectioned head pictures illustrated (where we would tap into above the exhaust port - see picture below). I was wrong. What I was saying is that the water coming out of the block at the large opening would preferentially flow to the heater port and not the head, thus robbing the head of a cooler source of water than recirculated coolant. The coolant system can not be pressurized equally, otherwise coolant would not flow. The coolant moves by differential pressure. The pump creates a higher pressure at the outlet and due to frictional losses along the flow path, there is a lower pressure at the thermostat. The pump creates a negative pressure at the inlet side and a positive pressure at the outlet, right where I was talking about tapping. The pressure at the heater port by #6 is at a lower pressure than right after the pump, thus putting a tap where I mentioned would enable cool water to flow from the pump to #6.

Ok, I just spent 30 minutes looking at a spare L24 block in my garage as well as my F54 block and the P90 and P90a heads. I think I have a pretty good idea as to the coolant flow. The reason #6 gets the hottest, followed by #5 and then #4 is due to the way coolant reaches #6. The primary block feed from the water pump forces all of the water into the block right at #1 cylinder. The water has to travel from #1 to #6 before going into the head at #6. My first question above was easily answered. There is no short circuiting of the flow. While it looks like it would short circuit, the passage from the large openign in the head to the outlet is rather small. Most of the water will circulate around the head and into the lower thermostat feed gallery. Saying that, I also found a way to get the fresh coolant from the water pump to #6 using the stock configuration. I do not have a camera with me, but conjur the image of the block in your mind or go and look. Right at the main feed into the block, there is a nice flat spot on the side that can be tapped with a 3/8 NPT port. Tap this and then run the line into the outlet on the passenger side outlet by #6 or into the block drain on the driver side.