ktm

Hey guys, ktm and Calgary280zt here...we're installing Wolf V500 into Mark's 77....got the dizzy out and trying to remove the optical disk so we can modify it. Having a heck of a time getting out the single screw that holds the disk on? Darn thing isn't cooperating, thought maybe some of you guys have wrestled with this problem. Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions!! Edit: forgot to mention, dizzy is 82 turbo.

John, Please visit the following sites: www.rx7club.com www.evolutionm.net www.turbobuick.com http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/ - Aquamist Forums http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php - Innovate Motorsports forums There is A LOT of reading to be done regarding methanol injection. I need to thank Bernard for recommending Turbobuicks and RX7club.com. There is some fantastic information there. The Aquamist site is another FANTASTIC resource. All three sites get into the technical details about the differences between water and methanol injection. Aquamist, as you may or may not know, is used exclusively on World Ralley Cars and they are/were primarily focused on water injection. Saying that, the discussions on those forums will give Hybridz a run for its money. Basically, water has a higher latent heat than methanol. What this means is that water will be able to absorb more heat than methanol, which results in cooler IN CYLINDER temperatures and slightly cooler INTAKE temperatures. Also remember that water is not a fuel, it is not combustible therefore it does not protect against detonation by increasing the effective octane rating of your fuel, but rather by lower cylinder temperatures. If you are looking for detonation protection only, water injection or a 50/50 mix of meth and water is the way to go. Methanol, on the other hand, has an octane rating of around 118 and it evaporates much quicker than water. However, it's latent heat is lower than that of water. What this all means is that 100% methanol will SIGNIFICANTLY reduce your intake charge temps (for instance, my temps dropped from 31 degree C to 12 degree C at idle when I was playing around with my duty cycles), this is the "kick in the butt" that Phil experiences. Methanol will have a minimal impact on cylinder temperatures. However, methanol protects against detonation by raising the octane level of your fuel. Remember, though, that methanol by itself IS combustible and IS a fuel. Therefore, when running 100% methanol you need to tune for it by pulling primary fueling to take the most of injecting 100%. You can add QUITE a bit of timing as well as pull quite a bit of fuel. Methanol burns slower than gasoline, and as a result the timing needs to be advanced. There is some speculation in Phil's thread regarding his turbo that his overly rich condition caused by injecting 100% meth and not pulling fuel may have caused his turbine housing to overheat due to unspent fuel combusting in the housing. You will make much more power running 100% methanol than you will 100% water or 50/50 water/meth. In order to do so you need to tune for it. Running 50/50 or 100% water is a much safer way to go for just detonation resistance. As for where I get my methanol, I called around to a few local speed shops and found a few that can order it for me. I pay around $35 for a 5 gallon can of Torco methanol. Lastly, I would recommend that you look into systems like Aquamist and FJO Racing for their PWM controlled high speed solenoid injectors. Places like Snow Performance, Devil's Own, and Alky Control vary the injection output by varying voltage to the pump. Aquamist and FJO Racing control the output just like an injector. I am using Wolf to control my FJO injector with a 32x16 map, similar to my fuel injector map.

Simplistically speaking, you do realize that the AFM adjusts your fueling, right? Therefore, out of Air, Fuel and Spark, FUEL was your issue, not air.....

You really need to do some more research as this is not the case.

Hey, that's cheating! No happy dance for you!

Looks good. My head is at the machine shop getting checked for straightness, resurfaced, and the holes tapped while it's there. A comment about the port above #6. When the t-stat is closed, water will probably be routed from the lower t-stat housing into #6. The pressure in the t-stat housing will most likely be higher than #6. Remember, the water in #6 is most likely stagnating due to the pressure differential between #6 and #1. When the t-stat opens, water will then reverse flow, as the t-stat opening is now the lower pressure zone. The pressure through the t-stat and into the hose will most likely be lower than the pressure at #6, thereby allowing water to flow from #6 to the t-stat.

Pete, I always let me car idle for a bit after running it hard before shutting down to help mitigate the temperature spike. I do this to allow the coolant to continue to circulate. Another option would be to go with an electric pump and have it continue to run after the car shuts down.

I stand corrected. I need to buy the book "How to tune & modify engine management systems." From the book, peak EGTs occur at stoich (14.7 AFR) and will decline when leaner than 15:1 and richer than 14.7. So then if running rich actually cools the EGT (to a point), since Phil is running 100% meth, maybe his timing is not advanced enough to allow for complete combustion, thereby allowing excess fuel into the exhaust manifold and turbine housing?

Nope. You missed the entire point of the discussion if you do that and have not solved the issue of stagnant water around #5 and #6.

Cygnus, you stated that running leaner increased EGTs. I was merely correcting that statement.

Look for 240hoke's and 280zforce's setups. Both of them ran the intercooler and intake piping out the driver side radiator support. You do have to do some cutting in order to make everything fit though.

While his injectors are quite large, that is only really an issue at idle for him. If he is calculating a duty cycle of 60%, then his injectors are sized just fine. Now, if his duty cycle was 30%, then I would agree that his injectors are too large. I think that he does need to pull fuel when spraying meth and bring his AFRs back to 11:1, assuming his primary fuel is already tuned. My concern regarding Phil's Coolingmist setup would be a failsafe. He needs for the system to switch maps automatically if there is a problem with his meth injection. Spraying 100% meth and not tuning for it may be causing some of the problems and increasing his EGTs. Methanol is a fuel, and if he is adding fuel on top of his primary fuel without removing it, then he is adding too much fuel and I believe his EGTs will rise.

Phil, sounds like your tune caused the problems like Six Shooter is onto. I would call up Coolingmist and find out what their flow map looks like for your setup. It sounds like you are running upwards of 20% of your primary fuel. This would cause your AFRs to drop by a point or slightly more. I don't believe your injectors are too large, you just need to tune for the methanol. Here are some great sites to read about tuning: www.rx7club.com www.turbobuick.com www.evolutionm.net http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/ Six is correct that your PW is too high uptop, but for the wrong reasons. It's the meth that is causing your AFRs to be so low (I am assuming that your tune before meth was spot on - am I correct?).

Quite a few people have done the intake and intercooler piping all on the driver's side.

No need for a different slave cylinder. You need to properly adjust your clutch system. There are two (or three if you have an early slave cylinder) adjustment locations: clutch pedal to master cylinder and clutch pedal stop. On an early slave you also have the adjustment at the fork. I am running a ACT pp with their street disk, a Z32 transmission, along with the stock 240z MC and a 1970/71 adjustable slave. I have no issues with engagement/disengagement.

Running rich or retarding your timing will increase EGTs. Running leaner or advancing your timing will lower EGTs. Not quite. Running leaner/advanced timing will increase cylinder temperatures and result in a hotter engine. Too lean/too much timing can result in too much heat and melted pistons. However, a lean condition will lower EGTs. High EGTs are a result of unburnt fuel from the combustion chamber, resulting from too much fuel or timing retard, burning/combusting in the exhaust manifold.

Tony is correct. However, the car needs to have all of the stock emissions and fuel equipment that came with the L28ET. That means no Pallet fuel rail, no aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (unless it has a CARB sticker), EGR, stock turbo intake manifold, AFM, charcoal canister, stock downpipe, etc. I was simplifying the issue because most folks simply swap the engine. Hell, even my swap is illegal and I am taking a gamble (and know this) but I have a 1972 and am exempt from the bi-annual testing. However, if stopped by the police and inspected, I can be sent to to be inspected.

The problem is that 1978 vehicles are not exempt from the bi-annual smog testing. The bi-annual smog test includes a visual component.

Thanks cygnus and Tony. I'll check out O-Rings n Things in Fontana. I have the inside and outside diameter requirements.

I bought one of Justin Olson's intake flanges and it is machined for 14 mm injectors. I am running 7MGTE (Supra) 440 cc 11 mm injectors along with an 11 mm fuel rail (Pallnet). Does anyone know of a way to modify the lower injector isolators to fit a 14 mm setup?

I am eliminating that line from the back of the head to the water pump inlet. Too much hot coolant is bypassed back into the pump. Also, this should increase the cooling system pressure slightly as I am now eliminating a lower pressure shunt. My setup will be: #5 to turbo coolant inlet, #6 to lower t-stat housing, block off port in rear of head by #6, return coolant from turbo to water pump inlet. Returning the turbo coolant to the pump inlet allows the water to flow through the turbo rather than sit there if I routed it to the t-stat housing (while the t-stat is closed that is). Another setup would be to return #5 and #6 directly to the radiator or pump inlet and still use the by-pass line to feed the turbo coolant.

Right now the turbo coolant is returned to the pump inlet. However, Tony and I agree that #6 can return to the lower t-stat where I am currently feeding the turbo. Remember, without the line at #6, the coolant is (actually, should be - right now it is stagnating at that point) returned to the lower t-stat housing anyway.

That is an R200 long nose. The 280zx's do not use a moustache bar like the S30s as can be seen in the photo. The best way to "visually" identify an R200 versus R180 is the measure the pumpkin or cover. The R200 is quite a bit larger and is more "round" (height and width are similar); the R180 pumpkin/cover is more "elliptical" (it is taller than wider). The only way to tell what gears are in the differential is to open the rear cover and look for a marking stamp on the ring gear. For instance, 39:11 would be 39/11 = 3.54, 39:10 = 3.90, 37:10 = 3.70, 37:11 = 3.36. A less accurate way would be to spin the driveshaft and then count the revolutions of the driveshaft relative to the revolutions of the rear wheels. For a 3.54 differential, every 3.54 revolutions of the driveshaft result in 1 revolution of the rear wheels.

Serendipitous thread. As Slow Old Car pointed out, its the air filter/inlet to the compressor that is the problem. I have been trying to figure this one out as well, and Phil's solution is ideal. My current setup has a 3", 45-degree pipe that comes out and down. The filter winds up sitting right about the front sway bar. I really like Phil's solution.

No, it's not odd to think of it that way. It is increased resistance, either through dirty contacts, corrosion, etc., that causes the wire to overheat. Wires typically have less than 0.5 ohms of resistance in a circuit in a car. I am talking about measuring the resistance between the wire and the chassis ground. How else would you "think of it"? The reason you get smoke is due to heat. Heat is generated in the wire due to increases resistance in the wire caused by corrosion, dirty connectors, etc. Wire heats up and starts to cook the insulation. To think of it in a hydraulic analogy: if you have a smooth-walled (resistance) pipe and need to flow (current) X amount, you develop a given pressure. If you roughen the pipe wall (increase resistance), but need to flow (current) the same X amount, your pressure increases.