ktm

Pics, I got pics. Nothing like a picture to show you how dirty your engine gets in So Cal's air. The first picture shows the 1/4-in. NPT to -6 fittings above the #5 and #6 exhaust port. The second picture is a general overview of the engine. You can see that the hoes from #6 goes up, over, then back under the intake manifold and connects to the lower t-stat housing. The reason for this convoluted shape is clearance. You can not run a -6 line under the intake runner without affecting the orientation of the fuel injector. The #5 hose feeds the turbo. The outlet from the turbo then goes to the stock bypass line shown in picture 4 (its the braided hose that goes around the distributor). Someone is bound to ask about the silver foil line and heat shield. The foil is actually reflective tape over a 1/2-in. neoprene hose insulator that covers a Goodridge fire sleeve over a 1/2 stainless steel hardline. Why the triple redundancy? I am having issues with my methanol boiling and thereby having no methanol pressure. I have tracked it down to the pump as the culprit, hence the heat shield (I will clean it up a bit if it all works out). The third picture shows the stock bypass hardline. I cut the ends off and silver braised -6 AN fittings on the end. I hope this helps.

Very nicely done Dan! Next time I buy something from you I may actually get to see the car.

Dave, it may not look intimidating, but it is heavy and the clearance around the shifter and bellhousing will give you some headaches if you do not have a tranny jack. I would advise removing the shifter, the whole assembly save for the relocation bracket, and use guide studs in the block for the bellhousing. The clearance issues, though no interference, means it is a case of jack a little bit, move forward a little bit, jack a little bit more, inch forward more. Having two people certain helps A LOT, as the transmission weighs over 120 lbs. The worst part will be getting the input shaft splines to line up with the clutch. One hand on the driveshaft, one hand pushing. This is where a second body helps out. As far as the transmission itself, I LOVE IT! The shifts are sooooo much crisper and precise. Downshifting is where you really notice a difference.

After my clutch fork pivot ball issue, I ran into another problem where my clutch master and slave cylinders bit the dust. No problem, I'll pick up a set at Autozone as these are easy to replace. I install the Z32 slave and a 280z master cylinder, bled the system, and could not get the clutch to disengage. I then spent 2 more hours adjusting the play, bleeding the system, more adjusting, etc. and still could not get the clutch to disengage. I finally pulled the new MC out and compared it to my old, stock 240z MC. The distance from the top of the rubber boot to the end of the piston was a full 1/2 shorter on the new MC. I pulled the new MC out after I saw that even with the MC fully adjusted OUT, my clutch pedal could not touch the rubber stopper with it adjusted out. I drove down to MSA yesterday morning and picked up a new 280z Tokico MC and measured the length of the piston. It was identical to my old one in length. However, I asked to look at the old display MC in their case and IT was a full 1/2 shorter! Just a word of warning. Make sure that you measure your MC piston length before replacing it.

Prox, I need to invest in a tranny jack. Lowering a stock 280z 4 or 5-speed is very easy by yourself with a regular jack. The Z32 transmission is a beast and even with 2 people struggling with it, it took us nearly 3 hours to simply install it.

As soon as I can get my hands on a camera, I'll take detailed pictures. I've asked to borrow my neighbor's camera (wife has ours) and will post pictures as soon as I get it.

.....and by the title you can guess what I just broke. It's a $10 part that results in 4+ hours of labor. I am having Vildini Motorsports replace it. Trying to drop and reinstall a z32 TT trans alone, on your back is incredibly difficult. Hell, even with 2 people it is still a challenge.

The car is running. It was running when you were here Mark, just not driveable because of clearance issues with my new wheels. There is quite a bit of hp increase with meth injection, if you tune for it. Even right now, eventhough I am still tuning for meth, I can tell by the butt dyno that there is a bit of an increase.

Does anyone have a few useful links that provide a discussion regarding EGTs and how AFRs and timing can affect them? I searched the last couple of nights for a couple hours each time and could not find what I was looking for. I have a EGT sensor installed on my L28ET and I am logging it with my Innovate LMA-3. Based on my research, I am running right around the sweet spot for cruising and higher boost (~1500 degrees, however, low boost (2 psi up to 8-10 psi) my EGTs are around 1100 to 1200 degrees. My AFRs range from 13 to 12.5 up to 10 psi. I am injecting methanol which I know led to my VERY low initial EGTs at 2 psi (800 degrees). I have since stopped spraying at 2 psi and they jumped up to 1100 degrees. Hence my question regarding a good resource for EGT relationships. I know the basics (increased timing increases EGTs, retarding timing decreases EGTs unless retarded too much; leaning out increases EGTs, rich decreases EGTs unless too rich).

Sean, I am running a 50/50 mix of 91 and 100 octane as well as meth injection right now. The 50/50 mix is for precaution as I tune for methanol, so I can't tell you about detonation tolerance. I am amazed at how much cooler it is running though, and I have not blocked off my front radiator support or sealed any lower gaps.

Yes.

Tony, I've been running my car with the setup we discussed (#5 into turbo, #6 into lower T-stat housing) and the car is running much cooler, even when running it HARD, the engine temps never get above 88 degrees C - hard as in repeated, back to back 2-3-4 redline runs. The needle never even covers up the F on the gauge and Wolf shows it running around 88. When cruising, the temps drop to below 80 degrees.

Not 10 o'clock, more like 9 o'clock. #1 is the closest to the radiator. #4 is in the correct position in the picture.

I was going to say the same. The turbo specs are not too bad, but the turbo "brand" leaves a lot to be desired. We could be wrong, but the tell tale signs of an ebay turbo is the compressor inlet. On a Turbonetics, Garrett, etc. the inside surface of the inlet is slightly polished (you do not see the machining marks as prominently), the end of the compressor inlet is not as thick, and the inlet is not as severely tapered.

Drain the gas. If you are so worried about wasting the gas, sell the car. You are going to spill the gas out of the driver side breather when you disconnect that vent line if you have over roughly 1/2 tank. Also, you will need to drain the tank if you using a jack to lower it, as the tank will bend very easily. The metal is quite thin and the gas will make the tank rather heavy.

Chris, yep, I got the lug nuts figured out. I needed to run spacers in the front, but I got the rears to clear without spacers by trimming just a little bit of the spring perch.

Pictures of my new wheels that I bought from Rudypoochris. They are 16x8 +10 Rota Grids with BFG G-Force 245/50s.

This is not necessarily correct if you mean the ECU literally drives the injector like a fuel injector. The FJO Racing setup has an HSV/injector driver that is controlled by the PWM output from the ECU (similar to the ECU sending a signal to the stock turbo ignitor that then drives the coil). John, does your Tec3 have map switching capabilities on the fly? I ask because you will WANT a failsafe if you tune for meth or water. Coolingmist has a clog detector and FJO has a pressure sender. I use FJO's pressure sender as my fail safe. If the pressure drops below a value, Wolf will switch the map to my non-meth map. It works seemlessly. Another thing you need to consider is the minimum duty cycle of the HSV. I know that FJOs minimum DC is 10%; below that the opening time is close to the response time of the injector and you do not get consistent performance. In order for my 700 cc/min HSV DC to be 10%, I start spraying at 3 psi at 3000 rpm. Any lower RPM or boost and the DC is less than 10%. If you send me your fuel map, I have a monstrous spreadsheet I made that calcs HSV DC versus MAP and RPM based on the fuel map, meth mix %, amount of meth injecting as % of primary fuel, fuel injector size, fuel pressure, etc. It gets you in the ball park (are you at 30% or 60% DC).

Doh. I should have known better. Thanks.

Regarding IAC control, I was talking to Ron Tyler about setting up an IAC for my Wolf'd L28ET. Ron recommended that I look into the Ford IAC controllers as they are PWM controlled. Is the GM IAC motor PWM controlled? Wolf has a dedicated PWM channel, but it requires a PWM controlled motor.

Forgive this ignorant question, but why on earth would you want to swap in a carb in lieu of F/I?

Justin already provided the IGES files earlier in this thread. You have to source the runners yourself from places like Ross Machining. The runners need to be 1.5 ID/1.75 OD (wall thickness of 1/8-in. or 0.125-in.). The rest of the stock should be 0.125-in. aluminum. There is a PDF earlier in this thread as well that shows all the dimensions of the intake flange.

My alternate cooling setup is complete. When Calgarty280zt comes back on Thursday, I'll have him take some pictures of the setup.

No, he is not running full sequential yet. The disk is drilled for full sequential, but he is running a single coil arrangment.

Mark (Calgary280zt) arrived at my house on Friday night around 5 pm. After an enjoyable dinner, we dove headlong into the Wolf install by 7 pm. The install was progressing fairly smoothly until we tried to remove the CAS optical disk from the distributor. Our tools just weren't big enough, leaving us feeling inadequate. However, a quick jaunt over to Home Depot at 8:45 pm and 15 minutes later the disk was out. We continued working until 1:30 am, by which time the install was 80% complete. Day 2 started around 7 am with a quick research on Hybridz and Zcar.com for the ignitor and fuel pump relay location. That alone took 20 minutes to finally pin down. By 10:30 am we were ready to verify timing between the disk, engine, and Wolf. With fingers crossed we bumped the motor and......nothing. The coil was sparking, and I was stumped for a minute or two until I realized that I forgot to put the rotor back on the distributor. Two minutes later we confidently bumped the motor and were disappointed yet again. Right before we started tearing everything apart in the engine, I checked Wolf's settings and realized that I needed to adjust my file a bit more. I had the ignition channel setup correctly, but the pulseskip needed to be set at 0. As soon as I made that correction, SUCCESS!!! A minute of tweaking the distributor and we had confirmed 0 BDTC. We were now ready to start the car. After tweaking the fueling a little bit, and remembering to plug the injector power plug back in after a few failed attempts, SHE STARTED!!!!!!!!!! I had to bump up the fuel a bit more as the scaling was not quite correct, but after 2 minutes of adjustment, she purred like a kitten!!!!!! HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE!!!!!! Oh, I forgot to state that this is Mark's daily driver and we had to get it running before Sunday. We still need to do some tuning after we install an LC-1, but we are on the homestretch!!!!