Careless

Yeah, Nissan did do a service campaign. Jason and I talked about it when he came to pick up the RB30's. I called Nissan the following monday with my VIN and my link @ nissan told me that the car had every single Nissan maintenance, service schedule, and recall applied to it. I think I can see the tape on the injector harness too. The problem I foresee is that the picture on both my FAST system and the dealerships system is that from the bottom up, there are: seal. thin spacer. seal. thin spacer. c-clip. and some other crap. on my injectors there is only: fat seal. black spacer cup thingy. injector. lololol. I don't know if that's correct. The seals I have on the end of my injectors seem to be a tad larger than the nissan ones. The injectors are also dual-feed. They sit tight onto the lower intake manifold, and I didn't detect any gasoline or fuels on my intake manifold when it was removed. I can't see why they would be like this. I would assume they were done when the injector campaign was last complete. But perhaps it was infact not installed? damn these cars! stupid love-hate. i hate it!

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh dear. I hate hearing the beginnings of what I am about to see. peace be with you, my canuck friend.

82 cents a litre here.

it will be fine. just not something I would use. I shopped around and confirmed with grumpyvette that molybdenum disulphide grease is the berries! also, the moly grease tube allows you to not be chintzy with the grease. i was lubing up the bolts and a friend came over just at the right time to strike a good point. The whole movement of the head during torquing can cause the bolts to run the sides of the block, gasket, or head. Doing so with no grease will eventually cause the torque value to be read incorrectly. So lube up the entire bolt, ESPECIALLY under and over the washer. The shaft, threads, and washer are the most important parts (and coincidentally, they are ALL the parts. LOL). A lot of torque value is lost through the base of the bolt head and the washer, as well as the base of the washer and the engine head.

WICKED truck! anyone looking for the late 98 and up bumpers, here is what you need.

lol you think he'll notice this thread before his next birthday?! conga-rats!

transformers. the bracket on the front clued me in.

no one wants to hear about your gay pr0n escapades!

work from the outside in when removing the head too, if you've not done that yet. when you flatten a gasket, you want to flatten it starting in the middle, so any movement is pressed to the edges of the surface and flattened out. if you do it backwards, you will end up with the "excess" movement from the gasket pent-up in between the middle cylinders, which will cause the gasket to curl a bit or even become un-settled easily after a few hard runs. when removing a cylinder head, start from the OUTSIDE in, as starting from the inside (like installing) will cause the middle of the head to pop up due to the heat-cycling causing it to expand. It will cause the head to pent-up in the center and most likely crack or shift valve seats. some get away with it, and sell their car to someone else who will never have good luck with the engine because of errors like this. also, as josh817 said. always pull towards, and don't use anti-seize. use molybdenum disulfate grease (extreme pressure moly grease) or ARP lube. honda uses it and it's spec'd in their manuals as lube of choice. some oils are useable. if you do stop, but you haven't gotten close to the tightening torque yet, you can resume your swing. But if you're almost there and you slip, loosen the bolt a touch and then start your swing again. Once it clicks over, work the wrench back and make it click over about 3 or 4 times before moving to the next bolt or torque setting. You'd be surprised at how many millimeters a bolt will move between clicks. even after finishing the head torque sequence, I like to leave the valve cover on the engine but not fastened. I then like to come back in a day or two and tighten those bolts in sequence again with the same torque setting that you last used. The sad part is that temperature is never where it should be.

LOL @ your daughter. *pokes head in* "IM HIS DAUGHTER!" btw, for installing keepers, gravity works to your advantage if you don't wanna lose them on the floor from falling out sideways! and i really hate to point this out, because I'm sure you've done this more times than I have... but don't be swingin' that spring compressor near your face or in the direction of the camera or your assistant. point it to a block of wood or something. I took the middle spring of the double-coil VG30ET heads to my palm and it hurt like a summunnabitch. would'nt want to walk around at work with a coil spring stamping on your face, do you? LOL.

the hard part is finding a rebuild kit that will work with that center section, because it has no label. buy it for 400, pay 200 for a kit, have someone rebuild it and properly balance it, and you're looking at 700.

OH, and the injector seals I got today aren't even the right ones. Seems as though they changed the bits through the injector campaign, and they did not update the FAST system. GREAT.

ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! @*#(&*(@!# F'ing turbo is totally off. coolant lines are near touching the manifold and that is NOT acceptable. Now I have to find a way to remove the turbo without removing the heads. another set back. Go0o0o0o0o ZEE! I'm so close to buying new sheets of drywall so I can paint them and punch them like they're real walls. I've run out of spare slabs. I think I need a pulley-block and chain now to winch the engine up and loosen the engine mount to tilt the bastard to the passenger side. god save us all, because I'm about to cause a global catastrophe.

interesting. 66cc. now I've heard it all! LOL. 66, 64, 63, and 62! and would you believe it was all from different piston manufacturers. I guess the only way would be to bust out the turkey baster or the graduated cylinder, and measure my real piston volume after boring.

it will work. if I remember correctly the only difference in stock piston to vg30dett pistons being the compression height @ 1.280 for the RB30 pistons vs. 1.260 for the VG30DETT pistons, right? I'm going off the top of my head. infact, the pistons I have now, and the pistons that net the high compression ratio that were cut down by stealth-z's machinist are near identical to the vg30de non turbo pistons. same compression height, same piston pin offset, same gudgeon pin size, same dome volume (16cc), but only 0.5 larger in diameter. I too wondered about the combustion chamber size being that the pistons are positive deck clearance. usually this is taken up by the gasket. if you really wanna get down to it, the big end bearings for the RB30 rods will be the same as the VG30 too.

that link leads nowhere.

you won't be selling the z for asking price if you smack the wall at those speeds man! get an adjustable wing quiccccccccccccck!

those look amazing. what was the final compression ratio you got with those 9:1 pistons when you decked the block/head, since I have the same pistons. Also, would your machinist be willing to rent out the torque plate?

lower intake manifold and gaskets went on today. tomorrow goes the fuel rail and cam gears + tensioner and belt, and then on wednesday the rocker-arms and shafts. I found that the center section of my turbo must not have been aligned 100% to what it was before, that would explain my oil line needing some convincing, and the bracket that goes on the block to hold the intake pipe doesn't quite line up with the coolant line bracket, but the hard pipe and throttle seem to line up ok. I'll just have to find a way to get that coolant line to stay put. I think I'll use some heavy duty zip ties and fasten it to the intake pipe.

LOL. well I just have my own strict opinions. but calling the laurels "ugly" is blasphemy. !!! Some people don't seem to get my humor or take my comments out of context anyways, and it comes off as upsetting sometimes. Oh well, can't please em all! psssst... take it back!

thanks 87 Turbo, it be. My port work is a lot better than what the picture looks like. some would say too smooth, but I used a cool finishing tool that I think worked well. I have more pics, but no time to edit them. that was about 70% through all the ports, I did them in stages to equalize the amount of material I removed.

Z's are considerable candidates for "pony cars" by all standards.

not feelin the flares, they look like they're inverted flares or something. and I like green so I hate to see another green z be banished from the face of the earth, but atleast it's getting a new lease on life.

RB30DE is still going. getting some info from Graham who has the 380hp RB30DE. Can't work on two cars at the same time with my budget. When this car is on the road it will allow me to meet new clients and get new projects that would otherwise be out of my way.