Careless

technically it's not a hijack. as you can see, some people have differing opinions on what makes a machinist a worthy person to handle your engine, and hand your money and parts/investment to. we're stating things to look out for, and you can see it in person if they let you stick around for an hour or so, and check out their equipment like they WANT to build your engine using the proper techniques... just in case you can't get a good lead from someone on the internet. a good tip is to go to a race engine builder and ask them who their machinist is, or go to a machinist and ask them how many race winning vehicles they worked on and what they did, and how many times it took them to get it right.

how is one supposed to do a reverse 180' brake-lock parking stunt with all that clutter! I mean, that kinda thing is rather important! ANNNND, I see you got the Jobs Tuning EMS installed via blue-tooth. Now all you need is a router, an in car mailing address for billing, and an iTunes store account and you'll be downloading fuel and ignition maps by the dollar in no time! LUCKEE!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=895759&postcount=7

well, some people will tell you that they find it easy to drive, others would tell you it's a pain. :-/ especially with the lightened flywheel. but it is a good clutch kit, and it looks to be in fairly good condition. are you safe with pulling the transmission off if it becomes too tought to drive? I'm going to be taking my transmission off my z31 this coming month in my garage, so i'm not yet sure if it's something I want to do again, but I can imagine any car guy will do it if need be. just run it until you have time and money to buy and install a new one. can't hurt, no?

not to mention that a lot of things can be improbably casted from factory. lifter bores on a SBC? offset by as much as 1/8 inch for example... if not more. push rods hitting one half of the lifter isn't my idea of a safe bet, especially since they form an S shape under high load. combustion chamber head volumes and piston compression ratio calculations from parts manufacturers are always off too. je says its 62cc, arias says its 63cc, wiseco says its 64cc.... and those are close tolerance RB heads. The fuel and ignition system has to compensate somewhere, and that's something a "machinist" wouldn't bother thinking about. I think you're looking for a proper engineer. Someone, whom given some parts, can make them work as intended. I'm sure your engine was done properly, Andy... but you probably know better than a lot of competent machinists who are good at rebuilding engines for dealerships and such, or since it's yours and you have the tools you care a lot more. some will just have at the money and consider the job just like any other, when in fact there is more work custom involved, as I'm sure you know and have performed. It's just hard to choose, and I'm sure it's been like that since people started modding engines. If only it werent so damn 'spensive!

RB25's are pink, i think.

It's a 3.0 litre. possibly 2.9 or so when you're done. sure it's possible, infact I'd be quite dissappointed if it was less than 190 range. but I would just use the VG30DE as a base. 222hp off the bat, you can make 260bhp with an 11:1, cams, exhaust and some head work, i'm sure. Might cost even less to do, aswell. might be something to think about. pick one up and do it on the side yourself. I reckon you can find a VG30DE for about 500 bucks.

and I'm willing to bet your ECU has been chipped for a car with larger injectors.

ok lets try some troubleshooting. 1) check your fuel pressure regulator to make sure it's working. 2) make sure all your spark plugs are actually firing (dumping fuel into the exhaust will backfire under any circumstance). 3) check to see that none of your injectors are stuck open. 4) purchase an independant A/F ratio meter, like a Techedge or a PLX. You're going to need one anyway, and you might as well spend the 3 or 400 bucks now and get those to see what your A/F ratio really is. it's rich. but how rich If you need an injector test light, you can come to my house and I'll help you test for injector pulse with the noid lights I have. Not sure when a good time is though, cause lately I've been busy spending my time making coin for my projects.

mounting of the steering rack, I think. I know, newer cars are equal on both sides in most cases but i do believe the steering rack is offset on one side due to where the shaft falls (jdm or usdm). just a hunch. :-/ EDIT: oh wait, "wheelbase"? what the flux core?

It's not the size of the screen, it's the pixels per inch that count!

I think that's part of the big "NO" list when they designed all previous Z's. those bastards.

and the engine management system will be run from iTunes, with individual spark and fuel maps for 0.99 cents from the iTunes store. again, apple setting a standard in everything... this time it's dyno tuning! EDIT: Ron, they might be looking for distributors! EDIT 2: Steve Jobs just signed up as a driver for Formula None.

if you post asking about a shell, then you're going in the right direction, as John stated, shell is most important. and as well, shell can mean bare. no wiring, no panels. maybe no doors or hatch. BUT STILL, if it's good, I would get it.

I can toss you guys some moola if it's needed, incoming PM btw.

I think I know the issue. it feels inadequate because everything else is like 900 times more powerful now. stop hurting its feelings.

I'd say they're Jitter collars now. Or Jitt-Raff collars. lol. and before you take out that loan, take a look at the exchange rate if you want to giggle a bit.

Hey! you still haven't posted details about your build at all. stock ecu? oxygen sensor pooched? fouling plugs? need data!

it looks like the steering wheel is from "eparco" must be a new model for the internet, as part of sparco's new online division.

all you need to test for compression ratio is a 100cc buret and stand, some masking tape, an inside micrometer, a depth guage (usually a feature of vernier calipers), some deionized water, plexiglass and lithium grease if I remember correctly. polishing your combustion chamber might yield a 1 or 2cc increase in combustion chamber volume, and you can play with headgasket variables for thickness. pm me if you'd like a trial version of dyno2003... I'm sure you would find it useful in experimenting. It's mainly for US domestic engines, but It'll give you a good idea of what to expect from an N/A 3 Litre. Machinists rely on past experience and customer's wallets to find out how much horsepower one engine or another makes... I can see why though... Not many machinists/builders will supply complete engine packages for Nissan motors, so they have no reason to buddy up with an engine dyno outfit or something along those lines. Adding to all this, I'm starting to find the minute details of engine blue-printing to be the most interesting part of the car... I'm trying to acquire all the tools I can and buddy up with a reputable machinist to cross-examine my findings to see that I'm doing everything right. Of course my project will be the first complete build by myself... *crosses fingers* What kind of power do you expect, just for thread-info sake.

you could probably have them sonic tested or magnafluxed to reveal cracks. also check for any improper wear on the contact surfaces.

shaving the head will be better in theory compared to a thinner or thicker headgasket because you might get a better quench area depending on how the combustion chamber is tapered from factory. I think pistons and rod bolts are the way to go. Nissan rods are generally well built from what I've seen them being put through. Can't say for sure with the VG's. Take into account that any detonation will severly pound your factory pistons. VG Turbo engines have a dog-low compression ratio, especially the 87 turbos. So that makes you do more math to get where you want. Are you using an N/A engine to start? Have you considered VG30DE pistons? they feature an 11cc dome for JE Forgies, which are off the shelf. Are the pin offsets and compression height the same for the DE and E heads? Are pistons interchangeable? The best way to obtain a suitable compression ratio through semi-accurate calculation would be to use an excel spreadsheet built for purpose, or Dyno 2003 engine simulation software. Input the HG thickness, HG ID, cylinder ID, Piston Deck clearance and Dome volume, and find out the factory combustion chamber volume. I'm sure there are more variables, like the ring-zone where the piston and cylinder don't meet, but air can get into in order to push the piston ring out towards the wall under load. But you get the idea, right? Then take your shaved value and your cylinder ID, and do some math to figure out how much Combustion Chamber volume you've removed. THEN you can calc your compression ratio. Anyone who builds engines will tell you that the head makes the power. The bottom end just deals with it as best it can. A lot of people have opinions on quench but I believe that with a vacuum oriented engine (N/A are relying on vacuum to draw in air across the entire rev-range), you will need a properly calculated quench zone to homogenize the mixture of air/fuel before burning. Something that the turbo-charged engines do with swirl in the combustion chamber due to high pressure and cylinder filling... but they benefit from quench too at certain power levels... just something to think about before you gung-ho and head rebuild. it costs money. time does too, but i think time is better spent

On an RB25? thats good news! Edit: I got a GM 10si (or was it 12?) that I'll be using anyway, but it's good to know. does it bolt right on?

probably just a better intake design internally, along with a remapped fuel/spark table and NVCS timing better adapted to the new changes. If you can get it for a good price, then why not.

noooooiceeeeeee!