Careless

make sure the 25080-89907 is not an 89903. they are different.

Gasket Cross-References for US Parts Catalog: Sensor Cross-References for US Parts Catalog:

just incase anyone wants to buy the calico coatings bearings, they're available from NismoParts, saw them there after I bought my RB30/VG30 ones.

ok... fine First one seems to be the sensor and gasket. second one seems to be just the gasket. third one seems to be just the sensor. don't take my word for it.

On the topic of tubular header exhausts... what size exhaust runners are people running before the 2 collectors and the final 3.0" collector. I know that all engines, even given their displacement, flow different numbers in both intake and exhaust but I'm just trying to find what a good number to start with for a high-po 3.0 i6 would be. Is there a calculator' hangin around the net? As for the engine, what kind of power were you making? I remember printing this thread out and reading it on the street-car downtown... Then some old foggie had a convo about his datsun, and then rambled off about some 3500 square footage of land he owned or something...... drunks (LOL!) Can't really remember what kind of power you had though... And now about the pictures you posted: Your non-sealing intake valve seems like it was never cut properly, or the valve stem stretched some how. Either that or the spring itself is not seating right... possibly not adjusted properly from the beginning. Carbon deposits? Running rich on the far 2 cylinders for the first couple of hundred miles? I don't think that would make it seat that oddly though. :-/ Tough scratches on the 5th cylinder... I hope you can hone it out, but I would hone them all and look for new slugs :-/ I would be worried that the Feet-Per-Minute that you're slinging those pistons at, and with the thin casting... your pin bosses are going to have a hell of a time keeping themselves together with the new cam/rev range you'll be shifting your power upto. Add the fact that your ring busted... cheap rings? sounds like a cheap piston package. RacinJitter turned me over to a good point.. use Total-seal gapless rings.. our N/A engines make all their power on the premise that they use vacuum to suck in, and not forced induction... keeping minimal blow-by sounds like a good idea. seal it all in! As for a Forced Induction engine, blow-by is a good thing in most cases. Some say you might need new pistons when switching to gapless rings because of their design... adding them as an upgrade to old pistons doesn't let them sit right because of the profile of the piston/ring contact surface. Now's the time to upgrade. you got almost all the hardware to run it all nice and purdy like =) Alls you need now is something to keep it beefy down low.

My brother's name is Frank. He's kinda cool. He hasn't been to the gym in over a year... so I really wish he would really put a shirt on when my friend's come over. LOL. And his girlfriend's name is Jackie, and she is Columbian. and She's more tempermental than the italian women I know...

been reading. exhaust valve should have an extra bit of clearance due to heating of the stem as it gets washed over by the exhaust gasses. they can elongate enough to make contact. Even the pressure wave of them being OH SO CLOSE to the piston fly-cut can cause the stem to take some pressure deformation. common note in two of the top-end engine building books i've got.

that's because the fox body mustangs are the most often modified sports cars.

powerful little cars, those L6 ZX's!

so if the primary pump fails, you go to a failsafe meth only side of things? that's kinda cool !

a factory parking lot at night is fine. worst the police can do is tell you to leave... or give you a ticket for trespassing, but usually they don't go there, and there might not be enough light for them to see the smoke anyway.

i'm going to have to put my money on that too. but i'd like to see a stiffer than stock s30 suspension. rolling over is something i've seen at enough events. and i photograph them.

looks like that valve stem is a little corroded. sorry i can't help, just making an observation.

also a very good point. other than that, I think it looks pretty friggen NICE!

skib there are worse things that people have done with an S30. don't be a jerk.

looking awesome. but those silicone hoses... kill the engine cleanliness.

Funny you ask. I did this on the 3rd car since I've been using it just yesterday. You can also use GM Top End Cleaner if you buy it at their dealership. Its about 11 bucks in either brand. Not sure if they're exactly the same but it seems so. It also looks like the classic club-goer drink called "REV", so don't leave it hangin around in the house in a plastic bottle if you got people who come home drunk looking for more booze. The smell will not stop them. HAHA. anyways. as mentioned, take the booster line off your brake booster, and make sure it's still connected to the intake. If your engine carries a lot of momentum, it should not stumble, and it will suck up the entire bottle fairly quickly. In order to get the hose to the bottle, I took the booster line off from the booster. shoved a 6 millimeter socket in the line, and attached another longer line to the end of the socket that was sticking out. It won't get sucked in the engine, it's pretty hard to get in there to begin with. Anyways. it sucked it all up... I waited 15 minutes or so. turned the car on, and it smoked white for a while. Not a lot but slightly. There was a strong wind, so I revved it up and it filled the entire backyard with enough white smoke to warrant a neighbourhood fire warning. So I backed off the throttle, and let it coast for a bit. you'll want to rev up the engine real nice every minute or so to let it clean good. Also, it will get passed the white smoke stage, and then into the blue smoke (oil) stage. It will burn blue smoke for about the same length of time (15 minutes), and then it will start to dimminish. This is how you know it's doing it's job. The blue smoke starts to die down and then you have only a tiny bit of blueish smoke exiting the tail pipe when revving above 3000 Rpm. You will continue to burn oil for the next couple of hours or days until the entire intake plenum or whatever it is that is cruddy is cleaned. There can be years of buildup, but it gets stripped off the surface and starts to be burned, so it will be a good thing to do. My PCV valve failed open on my z31, so the entire intake plenum was caked with oil. So now that it's not burning blue anymore, I'm quite happy.... OH, you find exhaust leaks pretty darn quick too.

saw that too. it will never ever ever come off without needed a full panel replacement if you decide to put that behind whatever it is you're gluing. that stuff is tough!

I believe those wheels are "WEDS"

i find it funny, and kinda cool how many friends want to see my car done and ask to help me with it when I'm working on it. and the compliment that put a smile on my face was when my father came to see it for the first time (before i stripped the paint), and he said "i recognize this car"... and i said "THIS car? or THIS TYPE of car?" and he said "no... THIS TYPE of car was the one I was going to buy... instead I bought the Fiat Spyder 850 because it was half the price". makes you feel good when you one-up your dad. no matter how many years later.

jeeze. "hey wanna go to the beach today? its nice out... lets go for a cruise" --- "nah, maybe next weekend, this weekend im adjusting and balancing my carbs... all six of them"

have you tested the original injectors? just take two wires, and give them a shot straight off the battery. if they click, they're probably unstuck. if they don't, then someone probably tinkered with them.

i'd say the CA18 is the rev king if you want to compare like-motors. being an RB25 with a casting block removed to shorten length and remove two pistons, I'd say the less rotational mass would allow it to rev higher, and it does. so what if you have to do a bit of valve train work to the SR20. it's still a rock solid platform. I would do that over the RB20. but either way, the RB20 price is a phenominal performance package when you get down to it. it leaves a lot of room for 300 or so rwhp in upgrades out of a tiny iron block 2 litre, and they're pretty stoutly casted. price point is quite good, and comparable to the SR20. but that said, i'd take lighter weight over higher horsepower any day, unless it was a really really REALLY windy day. LOL

there should be 160 degrees available, but it probably won't make a difference in this case if you're at operating temp and not tens or twenties higher. as mentioned, proper airflow to the rad and unobstructed cooling of all parts of the rad are important.

good call