Careless

FYI, you need the second and third item in the lists, not the red one in the grey illustration. the red item in the illustration is just a fastening bolt for the pan rail.

i didn't know tyndago sold parts. good point. i just wondered why he made that comment. perhaps he had posted about the experience at one point? i know eagle has a fairly good rep. curious, i am! remember, im the guy with a romac balancer and spool rods?! lol. theres a lot of nonsense surrounding my parts choice but mehhhhhhhhh.

curious to know if anyone got the windage tray to work. I'm thinking of making a crank scraper this summer, but I need to borrow a plasma cutter or just get someone to waterjet cut me some parts. I know it's not the best and people have their opinions, but i think with some teflon sheet and some good measuring it could eliminate the need for modifying the RB26 windage tray and add a bit to block rigidity.

im not questioning anyone's choice for rods, as I have some SPOOL rods that are probably chinese blanks anyways, but the GTR2009 blog ran by tyndago (who also has an extensive site regarding the RB26 and improving their output) states that he would not use Eagle rods in any of his RB26's, and I believe he used to work for motorex and has gotten his entire arms wet in some interesting projects revolving around high-horsepower names and vehicles. A friend of mine had the experience of goinig to an engine builder that showed him two pieces of some rods that had failed. One was an Eagle and the other a SCAT, and the drill press he had took a lot longer to drill a hole in the SCAT than it did the Eagle... Softer metal perhaps? But then I read that those two are also built in the same factory, JCAT's... who coincidentally also manufactures Tomei parts. =/

Most likely the position of the factory 810 cross member that links the front suspension to the chassis. It could be in the way of the rear sump.

If you're going to spend the saved money on something ridiculous, then it will not be worth the trouble. If you have the money to let someone else do the swap (usually 2x the DIY price), then save that money, do it yourself, and use the money towards a turbo timer, some good gauges, and an intercooler + bov setup.

wish i had my RB26, cause i'd send them to you.

I would tell you what you want to know, but there's no spoon feed option on hybrid z. come on, all this info is posted in the forums, use the search feature.

sorry for the dumb question, but did you explain how it does get charged, or how long it takes to recharge using household energy sources?

i know what the feeling is like

That last run was like warp 6! RB30 is going to rip the pavement This makes me happy cause i took my Z out today after i paid my respects to the tune-up gods. 4/20, people having fun drivin' their zee's. what's more to ask, really. good day!

should'a told him you lived in a barn too.

Oh, hahah. well the offer is still on the table if you need some slugs! I thought you were building the RB30 here. I don't think it will work to meet a budget with mismatched parts, either

for what it's worth, I saw some greddy hard pipes that were individually sent to the intercoolers to replace the factory hard pipes. However, they did not connect into one large pipe as I saw for some setups. Could it be possible that the hard pipe setup is not allowing the pressure of both turbos to actuate the BOV at the pre-set pressure? perhaps segmenting the hard-pipes in such a way that the BOV does not completely relieve pressure between both turbos at the same time is causing a back-forth surge between the two compressors trying to force air out of the BOV. I've seen hard-pipes that connect at the earliest opportunity and conjoin into a single intercooler inlet, also made from Trust/Greddy (if I remember correctly.

Hey scotty, what would RB30 or RB26 pistons do for you? The RB25 pistons have a 1.180 or so piston height, the RB26 are the same, I think. I did read that the RB25DE pistons give the most compression ratio at 10.5 - 11.5:1. The RB25 or 26 will net somewhere in the proper range you want to run. I may be receiving my RB26 in june. I'll just give you the pistons if you or Jason come down to hang out! Raff

Unless its the unit itself that is pooched (and it happens to every ECU no matter what brand), I wouldn't worry. You should be able to get it to run fine, and the Wolf is as powerful as any system for the price it is. I can only imagine what price you got it for, and what is considered "the competition" at your buying price.

Hi, welcome to HybridZ. your facebook page is unavailable because it is not visible to people how are not on your friend's list. Also, if you own a supercar, you probably want RB26 or RB30 with RB26 head. RB26 will get you to 300+ hp with almost all stock parts. 0-60 somewhere between 4 and 5 seconds is pretty possible.

i think taking a shim to a machine shop and telling them to make another to your desired size is another option too.

you can probably give the edge a bit of a rolled flare so that any bump that hits the fender will roll inward rather than cut the tire. it could be close!

lets face it. even a 5000lbs car with 1200 ft lbs of torque and some high RPM will "git" pretty good!

What I think Ron is trying to say is that since the motors are moving something (the prop) that is operating in free-air, there is no transition phase from when a motor in a boat goes from in the water to out of the water and revving up to redline instantly (due to lack of resistance), or a car taking a leap and letting the drive wheels free. Prop engines only have special needs when operate in varying altitudes, but I think that's as far as it gets in terms of transition.

makes me wonder where I can find the forum with the best girls.

Anyone know of any places in Ontario or Greater Toronto Area that does some high tech coatings for pistons/valves/combustion chambers?

I was the one refering to the 3.0's, so I'll say that I'm not sure which one it came from or if they're different. But I do have two mounts that came with mine, and I held onto them just incase they fit the S14 front cross member I got.