Careless

You could probably pry a bit on ONE side and slowly fill with correct size bearings. try this first: Try and take one ball out, and then go to a bike shop. Ask to see their steering column bearings or "fork" or "goose neck" bearings that go in between the frame and the goose neck and fork (top and bottom). I bet you'll find bearings that large, and for like 2-5 bucks for an entire ring of them. Or just show them the ball bearing and ask them for a set of ball bearings that are the same size. I used to mix and match bicycle bearings all the time, it just takes a fine hand. As long as you bend the metal sheath back correctly, it will be ok (if you do not want to remove the entire thing. Gravity makes putting ball bearings back in pretty easy if you start with a little space at the top

you'd still need the RB25/26 parts though, as most of them are on the block, it just shares some from the 26 and the 25! they made it hard!

LOL I just got that now

Air servos. instead of lever actuation, a line is run to a valving system that pressurizes the individual lines using C02 rather a mechanical linkage. C02 fills the line faster and has more pressure than a human arm does during near-super sonic (exaggeration) driving, so using switches to activate the gears without taking your hand off the wheel makes sense. Add to the fact that trying to shift a transmission that big requires some muscle due to the big gearing, so that makes it even slower when it's fully manual.

Most people put bolts through the both holes side by side, relocating is something people will "get to" in the future, so I think you're already where most want to be in that respect to the mounts. LOL

i think holset is is just a play on words for the amount of people who look at those things and say "holy ♥♥♥♥" glad she's in your hands.

hi Zardilla R32, R33, R34 seem to have the same diagrams and same part numbers in this department! The bearings are not part of the number-tree that is attached to the main part number, therefore I am led to believe that they are not a part of the connecting rod assembly when placing an order. Hope this is what you're lookin' for =)

I could within the next couple of weeks. I would have to send the entire list to my parts source. Reason being is that the RB25 and RB26 share some parts, and don't share others. and the RB30 shares some of both, so I'll have to make sure that I can mix and match parts properly to lower the cost. example: as far as i know, RB25 and 26 crank snout belt sprocket is 22 bucks for the RB25, 88 bucks for the RB26. and It's been confirmed by someone else that it's the exact same part. I could say within the 200 - 350 dollar range, and that includes water pump pulley and most everything. I say that because I ordered doubles of a lot of stuff and it was 320 bucks, but that didn't include any significant head parts aside from cam gear washer plates. Due to the fact that I'm not sure what linkages I'll be using. That does not, however, include water pump or oil pump, but should include housing and seal for rear main. I'm going to have to give my parts guy a case of beer for him to scan through these things. It'll be a long list. Maybe I should do a bottom end package, and a Top end package. What would you guys expect to pay for something like this anyways.

lol, man. I hate how our cars have wrinkles. I mean... is there any other way of showing it's age any more than wrinkles...... IN METAL? Your modifications look tough, specially the TC bucket braces.

Ron, did you get an 18mm lense?

get off me, idiot! lol j/k that's what SHE said.

hey guys. I'm just looking over my recent PM's and finding that a lot of people are requesting obscure parts. I'm curious to know how many people will be tearing down their entire RB blocks. It might make sense for me to do a mass order of the bolts and such that go everywhere in these blocks. I have most of them at my house and I've taken pictures and catalogued them, but still many of you don't have access to these fasteners and washers and whatnot. Do you guys think it's a reasonable package to put together? I'm sure anyone rebuilding their block from the ground up could benefit from a set of shiney new stuff

if someone gets me the part number of the cross member, I can do a price check.

simple. most importantly, the head designs are different enough to make it easier or more reliable to pack more air into the cylinders on RB26 than on the RB25. anyone and everyone knows that developing horsepower means developing an efficient engine head. add the stronger internals, a big single turbo, put some ARP rod bolts and head studs + metal headgasket, and you have what Boozt3d had. 680whp on a stock shortblock (no rod bolt upgrades)

Hey, I tried to install FAST again, and it's giving me problems. I'll have to clean my registry and try again tomorrow.

Ross Tuffbond for RB engines = 579 AUD from justjap. add shipping to that 4 lbs, and it's probably somewhere around 580 USD. Seeing as many race engine builders are using ATI, i'd put my money towards ATi if I were to buy a balancer for 600 bucks. Then again, the fastest VN/VL RB30 is on Ross' site. :-/ I dunno, the RB26 unit itself doesn't look so bad. If yours isn't in bad condition I would just use that... I'm willing to bet there are a lot better parts that one could look towards, but if you're going the whole nine yards ....

yah, i had that issue too. I put the address of the person selling the Romac underneath the last picture. I can't remember who sells the Ross Tuffbond, but that one looks ince too =) Raff

looks to be a similar snail to what RIPSNZ is running. I'd wager around 600 - 800 hp on this sucka! I'm not sure if that's the "Nakamura Z" though =/

ouch. gold crusty glass in the finger!

They will hold to the 680whp that Boozt3d put on them, no doubt. Get some heft rod bolts though! Installing the FAST System now =) Yeah I was looking at Carillo's too, but the weight was not that far off from what I was looking for in the spool rods, and about 4 times the price. I guess that's what you pay for a lot better rods, but I'll bite the bullet on the cheap side this time around. I hope it doesn't bite me in the ass.

No problem. I bought a set of 900hp capable rods from Spool Imports in australia. For the price (600 or so, now), you can't even get standard nissan rods and have them refinished to size (almost all rods need to be, anyway). And the aftermarket ones will probably be better balanced. However, they will come with a larger gudeon pin bore, from what I'm told (21mm). Sooooooooooooo. if you're not upgrading your pistons, go with the RB26 ones. I'll try to make it home early to install the program =)

I'll see if I can get the part number for you later (gotta reinstall Nissan FAST on my comp). You may get better mileage out of a new set of rods from JUN or something. They might be the same price (or cheaper) too =/

I just updated this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124840&page=2