Careless

600hp . 1000hp. do you see yourself spending money quick enough, or keeping the car long enough to the point of getting close to 1000hp? I think it's not a pricing issue, I think its an actual technical issue of sorts regarding the balancing/forces by having roughly 40% more hp...., and I would get the 600hp, and sell it when I need the 1000hp. By that time you will probably have taken the engine apart a couple of times so you could just re balance everything with the new 1000hp damper before you put it back in. But there are a number of ppl on here, nico, and many other rb boards that go for the 1000hp one without problem... but who knows until they inspect everything really?

There are a bunch of options for the hydra bearings. The T56 on the new z06 uses one, I've been told, but I'm not sure how the lines are set up for maintenance. There are a couple of things you need to prepare for though. You have to securely feed two relatively thin stainless lines into the bell housing through the pivot fork hole. One bleed, and one feed. And you possibly drill a hole and mount it using a jam nut so that you can easily bleed it, unless you like taking your bell housing off to bleed the system. Quartermaster Clutch sells some units for the T-10 for street/strip applications, as well as race applications with their larger/more aggressive clutches.

I think he's right. I haven't seen kits with ARP Part numbers for either 26 or 30 blocks. And the Mains I bought from VPW Australia are also custom, and didn't come in an ARP box.

once my RB30 is built, I'll be building one of those , unless I come across one sooner for a good price. it will have to be N/A for me though.

Hbd Hz!

and Crower makes a 5.2 Litre stroker kit with option for titanium parts.

it looks good, but personally i wouldn't be able to live with the shortness of the lip, being that it doesnt wrap to the extreme ends of the bumper. it does look like a nice addition though, and I'd definately add a lip there. are there any others that may look like they fit? perhaps an integra or accord lip? There are some clean ones.

as team nissan mentioned, radiator fans mounted in a specific way would aid in retaining downforce simply because the air is sped up and thrown out quickly if the hood has areas for hot air to exit instead of stay trapped and build up. Think about it, instead of air congesting itself under the hood and expanding due to heat and being trapped in there, causing an area of high pressure, it is being thrown out of a relatively large sized opening after being sped up, meaning it's going faster out than it was going in, and it's not being trapped and slowing the car down. (this is in the case of the F50)

The good thing about so many local buys is that if I can get the first set of engines to be sold locally, I will have the money to supply myself with materials and all I need to make the second shipment easier to be delivered further. I'll get back to you guys within the week regarding this, as I wont be home for the weekend.

I'd like to know how boring and how repetative shredding and changing tires starts to get. He could use the capabilities of that car to do more fun types of driving. looks like a waste of a phenominal engine to me.

I hope so. I'm waiting for spring to sandblast the chassis, then summer to get the engine head so I can start putting it together. I'm slowly finding building engines more entertaining, or more relaxing. Headers being a part of it, I guess. We'll see. Any other complications with creating this piece? Also, what coating did you go for... There are a ton of different coatings so I'm not sure what to use. Is there anything that can be painted or polished to a gold finish?

Nice, how did you come across just the heads. Yellow, hmmmm. I'll goog' them and see what they say. That sounds like a great idea. We'd have to work out how much I'll give you for your time/resources or something. I think half are staying in Canada, and half in the US, which is just about where I'd want it to be, too. The faster I can offload some blocks, the better. I'll go talk to the supplier.

Hey Quentin, What price are u finding the ARP's for? I got the headstuds, but I obviously haven't used them yet. A lot of people run them, but I don't think they are exactly the same as the Tomei ones. Tomei's look a tad different and are a about 30% more expensive. but you got tomei everything, so why not go Tomei. You can email Eric, he's pretty easy going and will tell you whatever you need to know, with information to back it up if you want it.

=( one of my fav wheels. i wish i had'em.

this is me noticing some familiar names getting really ballsy in your youtube video comments section. I hope those names aren't the same ones that are here on HZ.

see if the fuel pump turns on with direct power after checking your fuses. once pumps lose their seal they lose their pressure. you would probably notice leaks, but it's good to check anyway.

shipping is going to be in and around 300 - 500 from what someone told me UPS charges just today. that's rediculous, I wouldn't even pay that. LOL. I'll see if I can lower the price of the blocks to compensate. This might have to be done sometime around April because the weather is f*cked right now. This is just a feeler, guys. I know a lot of you people are interested, and if someone else would like to set up a group by, by all means, go ahead. I'd rather someone else took the bull by the horns because of my current living situation. However, if time is not a factor (couple of months), I can work hard at arranging this over that time period. Reason being that my landlord/room mate calls the shots, and I'm proposing it as a way for him to make extra money by just using up a skid of space. I have to see what he says. So far he's receptive to the idea, he just wants to wait and see what happens closer to the time that it could happen, and I don't blame him... anything can happen, I might not even be living here (doubt that, this place rocks), but who knows.

stony i remember you mentioning this a dozen times, but did you get a number for output? I'm curious to compare your time/trap to what my goal is with my RB30DE. Cause I've seen the video, so I know it's legit I'm hoping for max 350 whp. what numbers did you have to get that time/trap? + you r0x.

well there are a ton of options in inline 6 category. why not go with a RB30DE like i am, without turbo, or go with a TB48DE 4.8litre inline 6. gobs of torque and Brian Crower is making mods for it now. A high compression N/A engine of that size would be insane for an inline 6. And it is also my next project engine (I like to do things backwards...engine first, car for it to go in later) heavy as hell though.

I'm participating in a swap like this for a friend now, who bought a wrecked S2000 for just under 2000 bucks, and has almost everything needed to do the swap now. 240hp in an 86 is perfect for what the car will be doing, and it was the intended goal for the 4ag(t)e that we were building with megasquirt. Also, the KA crank with some machine work in the F2XC block can yield 2.5 litres, as per the endyn.com website.

oh, and while the inner fender is separated, please put some rust bullet or POR15 on the inside of those quarters with a mini spray gun and a hose feed or something to get in easier just to coat as much as possible. Im sure none of use wanna see rust on that thing when it's done

Would grinding them down be a good idea once the beads are laid down? Or does this promote any kind of early cracking and such? Not really looking to save money, I like the experience, it pays for itself. My flanges are 302 stainless... is 302 stainless suitable for the rest of the piping? Only one person makes them for N/A RB30 Z's, and then again, they're in Australia/NZ, and they are also built using someone elses mounts...also something I will be making myself, as well as different cross member and different steering rack and u-joints... so... I'll try my hand at it Built, not Bought! excellent.

i dunno mull.. i think the rear flares are an inch and a touch too big, and not really as circular as my eye wants me to believe they are. but I like flares though, so good stuff. I could see some way beefier tires under there, rather than larger wheels. I like wheels with some fat rubber on the back. Makes people behind you think twice about poppin' their lead foot for shits and giggles.

are you talking about the ones on the very edges of the polished bearing surface on the journals in this picture? (Not the same engine, but a good reference image) those are to ground to size and to be radiused, and they're probably ground down because the side clearance with the over-sized bearings could have made it too tight of a fit. when you cup a bearing halve around the journal, can you see a bit of space at where they *would* meet at the corner? (because they shouldn't meet flush, there has to be adequate clearance for oil to run out and around there. perhaps a machinist can chime in? BRAAPSTER?

Run the other wires on another fuse. what are those other wires powering? I think just running the other wires on another set of fuses might be ideal. actually, separate the wires via 4 separate fuses of say, 5 amps, you can tell which wire is overloading by the corresponding fuse blowout. and to make it simple, run the side that connects to the batter using 1 wire, and connect all the fuses to that wire (less clutter at the terminal) using that 10 guage wire you have. Fuse blocks are quite cheap too, 15 bucks or so for a 4 slot with almost all hardware.