John Scott

I'm really not trying to add to anyone's misery, but why would my 383, aluminum head, solid roller get away with just mounting a Griffin radiator 1-55202-x, Weiand water pump(?) twin blower fans, no shrouds, sheetmetal or other voodoo and it cools fine in 90-100° weather, long waits in burger drive throughs etc. ? Timing OK, check for lower hose collapsing, too lean, impeller spinning but not turing water pump..?

My unilite/msd 6al/ blaster II coil has been trouble free for 7+ years on my V8 and used the same on my V6 ( different shutter/rotor) for years before that . I believe if the "eye" goes, nothing works. My only issue with my msd was when my battery started failing my rev limiter pill seemed off according to my tach. I found that the MSD likes a full strong 12 volts. An issue I had early on was the coil tower on the dist. cap was arcing to the hood latch above causing intermittent misfiring or non starting. I identified that at night after seeing the arc. Good luck!

I've used a real simple test, if sparkplug hole allows, by sticking a long plastic or wooden dowel down into the cylinder and measured the difference in exposed length between BDC and TDC. Won't indicate bore, but accurate enough to tell if the measurement is closer to 3.48" or 3.75" of stroke.

Why such a hot thermostat? 160 or none (flame on with that one http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm ) will be better.

Sorry, no, 383 sbc.

Very happy with my 3.7 Trans 2.97:1, 2.07:1, 1.43:1, 1.00:1, 0.80:1, 0.62:1 Tire 225 50 16. This makes for a 2.29 effective ratio in 6th. Highway cruising 2500 rpm or so @ 80. Often drive in town 35-40 in 4th with out lugging 1500-2000 I had a 3.54s, but the 3.7 made it a touch snappier, and still nip 140 in 4th a touch over 7000. For my set up a nice compromise for street, highway, and 1/4 mile play. http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php

The t5 is a nice light weight trans with a lot of desireable features. One of our old members had one behind his paxton 383 z for years, but shifted slowly, really babied it. I don't like the idea of pulling the trans out just because of some quick hard shifts so I went T56. Anything can be trashed with enough abuse.

3000? Are you sure you have shifted to 5th, (4th if auto)..or you have some nasty low rear gears. I thought by '83 all transmissions for the Camaro were OD. Better try the search button as there is plenty of T5 info out there. Personally, after seeing my neighbor go through two WC T5s in a few weeks with a wimpy stock 305, I wouldn't touch one without some serious upgrades. Driven nicely, shift slowly, they do fine.

Cool thread. Nice to see so many still appreciating the early Z. At 11 years of age may two favorite cars were the early Barracudas and the Corvettes... until I walked up to a brand new 1970 240Z, quickly fell in love with the sporty clean lines, and then gasped at the speedometer. 160, Wow!

Not a personal attack, but your text message style of writing isn't going to last here on HybridZ. Use your shift key and quit the shorcuts and you'll avoid the tool shed.

Pulling apart is a 1 or 2 on a scale of 1-10. Plus it seems the washers are usually just randomly thrown in. A few drag events, a summer's worth of spirited road miles, events, cruises, errands. For the most part, I forgotten its back there and moved down the list of never ending wants and to-dos.

Congrats on the progress. Are you planning on turbo or S/C? Looking forward to having another HybridZ in the area.

Some of us with two piece rear main seal, went this route and never looked back. It came with adapter to mount common T5 bell housing. Lightweight chevy nodular iron flywheel 15 lb, Ford f-150 clutch master, and Centerforce gold dual friction has been holding up for over 8 years, 7+ with 383 V8.. Cheap? No, but one of my most reliable purchases. http://sallee-chevrolet.com/BorgWarner/bwt56.cfm Top it off iwth a B&M ripper short throw for aftermarket T56 and you'll have a phenominal combination

I've been able to carry all my tools, one tool box, except for my engine hoist in the hatch of my Datsun... I'm no master mechanic, but basically had every part off my Z bumper to bumper, 3 hybrids, lots of old 60s muscle.. All the above items are just dreamland to me. You learn to get a long with the bascis if you have to. I do have a great 948 sq ft heated and lighted garage... maybe someday on the accessories.

??. It was a long time time ago '97, stock heads hindered good hp numbers, but ran great at 14 psi, very nimble. Lots of aftermarket parts for better performance, Buick V6 even greater potential. Started with a 700r4, went to a T56. Currently, much more satisfied with with a torquey V8. Next time who knows. Never done a 4, the sr20 would be a great project.

So, if this is going to be a strictly race car you have some engines that will be better than others, but maybe only marginally. Are you a good enough driver to realize the difference or is the rest of the car prepared well enough to take advantage of the choice? If its a street car then the line get pretty fuzzy since most platforms can be made to handle better than most cars you can buy. Heck, even the old 4.3 V6 will give you a real nice rear weight bias and sits really low. As I recall, 17" from the front of the block to the radiator! Shorter and lower than a 4 cyl. Go with what makes you smile every time you pop the hood.

My 6AL box has lived out in the wilderness of my engine compartment, on my inner fender above the frame rail since 1997 with no issues. MSDs can be mounted upside down.

hoov100, lighten up... 1981 and older vehicles are tested with the two-speed idle test. Although emissions limits are listed on this page for only 1970 through ..., all older vehicles are subject to testing unless they fit certain testing exemption categories. Pollutants are sampled and measured in parts per million. Oxides of nitrogen are not measured in the idle test. Emissions Limits for 1981 & Older Vehicles Model Year CO HC 1981 1.5 400 1980 1.5 400 1979 2.0 400 1978 3.0 400 1977 3.0 400 1976 3.5 600 1975 3.5 600 1974 4.5 1000 1973 4.5 1000 1972 4.5 1000 1971 4.5 1000 1970 and older 5.5 1000 It used to be 74 and earlier was exempt from visual, 75 and up had to have everything emission related that came with the vehicle, regardless it had to pass the numbers. That was a really long time ago, so check: http://www.aircarecolorado.com/default.htm give them a call. Here in north colorado, once you passed the first test then get collector plate status, you're exempt from test there after. Laws are always up for change as a new emission bill is in the works. 2 weeks and $2K? Not likely, but who can say what you can dig up and your mechanical skills are. Long before there was HybridZ, and JTR was an unknown I managed to throw together a Procharged V6 with a 700R4 in one football season, in my spare time. My wife was a big fan so I slipped out to the garage during games. No helpful diagrams or internet. Everyone's results will vary. Good luck and welcome to Colorado.

Yikes! Try searching member Scottie-GNZ starting about 9 years ago. The straight 6 might of be kind of retro cool with the multiple carbs.

Yasin, looks great! It now has kind of a sinister stance hunkered over the new tires and wheels.

Cool! The irs does a pretty good job of planting both tires in a straight line.

280Zone, what was your mph? From there you can get a pretty good estimate of what et could be hit with traction. HICKL- You are running an open diff?

Countless slips with 1.9s and 2s with low 12s, with best 12.2 open diff. Best 60's were mid 1.8s. DA 7821' for the 12.2 This was running AZ Zcar springs, front sway bar 225 50 16 555 nittos. With the OBX lsd, added rear sway, car and I gained 30 lbs, 1.701 60' same skinny tires, 12.061 DA 8042'. Guess uncorrected rwhp is 320

No NOS, About 112 mph. If you can run the 150 shot NOS, low altitude, 125 mph. Easy 10 sec et with traction, first time out with that hp guessing high 11s. Pretty sure roll bar isn't needed until 11.49. When are you going?

Same pic, just added some text to clarify. It is a crappy pic regarding the subject. I guess bottom line is the answer, yes the JTR crossmember works with the T56. Here's one showing reinforcemet plate and aluminum shim I used on my T56. Easier to drop the crossmember or raise the trans mount than messing with the rear end for drive line angles.