John Scott

A novel way to help stalling under hard braking image from rockcrawler . com: Also might want to search the Barry Grant website. They aren't shy about posting every spec, jet, and bleed hole for their carbs. Compare the difference from drag carbs to road race. http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=29&specs=29n drag race: http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=29&specs=29o I have one of the less common 4150 HP 750s that came as a road race 80528-2, PVs front and rear, square jetted. Since I prefer more of a drag carb, I swapped out to jet extensions, notched floats, plugged rear pv. like the 4150HP 80528-1. If you are willing and as mentioned, spending time with a wide band will be priceless. I'd also recommend learning what all the restrictions, emulsion holes, high and low speed bleeds do, and be willing to drill, tap, make you own bleeds, and experiment.

I've heard.. PVs both ends, connect vent tubes together to avoid slosh. (Google) Drag applications have jet extenders in the rear and no rear PV.

Congrats!

Dude, you must have ESP or something. Thanks

My Profile says I haven't set status. Status quo, status symbol, status report, status what? Thanks!

Kenny, the project looks great. Northern Colorado Driveline does nice work. Are you going single or dual on the exhaust? Looking forward to seeing the finished product and having another V8 hybrid in the area. If you ever need an extra hand, let me know.

Thanks for the correction, Jon. Phantom grip? Just pulled apart an old Phantom grip R200 that was in the corner. Amazing the amount of carnage to the spider gears and retainer pin. Galling, metal shards embedded in every bearing surface. Nice! I stick with my OBX!

The only thing I would add, correct me if I'm wrong, is torsen diffs apply the grip more progressively whereas the clutch type is either locking both wheels or open. A great driver (I'm not) might notice and adjust driving habits accordingly. I just like how the torsen type works so seamlessly. For my style of spirited real street driving, and occasional blasts at the drags, I'm totally sold on my OBX. Silent, care free, and the new added traction out of corners was an absolute thrill

Sorry, I should have just said needs more work. You'll appreciate the time you spend getting it right. Again, bending the pedal in my picture above can give you lots more throttle travel. I used a torch and went in small increments until I had full throttle and could still use the factory throttle stop on the floor board. My aftermarket throttle mount (any good supply house, universal chevy) on the manifold also allows for a good deal of adjustment. Good luck!

I wasn't going to jump in, but... Someone needs to say it, your linkage is a hodgepodge mess. Looking at the multiple fasteners on the carb is scary, the cable eye fastener will either just pull out of poor crimp or stress and wear out over time, and the slack in the cable and pulley is asking for trouble. The are some great images here on how others have used the stock mechanical linkage with great success. The attachment should be on the vertical plane of the carb linkage with the correct geometry,and some means for the linkage to rotate without friction, a bushing etc. A trip to the parts yard or looking at aftermarket solutions for cable linkage can also provide a clean and trouble free install. I've rushed into getting a carb to open using cables, coat hangers, what ever and finally learned to take my time to get it right. Finding yourself on the side of the road or track with a broken gas pedal is not worth it. Please get this right, as your long term enjoyment and safety depend on it.

Why get dirty? You can do this much more simply by jacking up the car, spinning the rear wheel two revolutions for open end and counting the revolutions of the drive shaft. There are not that many variances of the Datsun rear to not be able to conclude 3.5 revolutions = 3.55, almost 4 = 3.7, little more than 4=4.11 and so on.

Not trying to be a smart @$$, but I don't think a 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 block hugger header 2.5 or 3", is going to make a difference in performance. If max performance is paramount, why not go full length and make a more profound difference

cheap and fast = compromises and unreliable results. I went the Phantom grip and while it worked for a while, it wasn't long before my diff. fluid looked like glitter-glue. Shortly there after a continuous hissing from the NLA pinion bearing. I'd agree cheap and fast, and sure two wheel drive, is welded spiders. After that check out the OBX thread. Not sure if they make for r180, but best add-on to date for mine.

I run 7/16 screw in studs just for this reason. Do you have 3/8 or 7/16

Wow! Starting to feel old. Been here from the start and have to say one of the few car enthusiast sites that actually gets better and more refined with age. Thanks to Dan and all the Admin for another great year.

Out of box Holleys are safely designed for sea level applications. They're typically pig rich since fouled plugs are a lesser liability than melted pistons. Unfortunately the compromise is driveability and optimum performance levels. Best bet is to go wide band. I have 383, AEM wideband, HP 750 244@ .050, ..613/585 ISKY, Vic Jr, Mallory 140 and return style reg like G-Vette's 1st pic above. T56 (.62 6th) w/ 3.7 rear and get easy mid 20's mpg cruising 75-80. Diddling with the jets and powervalve restrictions is just the tip of the tuning berg. I got tired of all the compromises I was dealing with my HP carb and started researching, eventually drilling and tapping out my $600+ carb and making my own bleeds, and tuning myself. I'd post my specs for my 750, but its absolutely pointless since I'm at high altitude and every engine combo will be different. Not that you will have to, but as a hint I'm a mile from any Holley rule of thumb spec and have changed every emulsion hole, air bleed and jet. The result has been a carb that performs like FI, no stumbles hiccups, or misses, flat cruise and wot AFR and for the first time my plugs stay clean. Not for the fainthearted as you can turn your carb or your engine into a pile of junk as well. Here's endless reading from here, some good advice, some just big egos,...good luck!: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/

http://www.wallaceracing.com/calcmph.php Even with my lowly 383 7000 rpm, my 3.7 rear and 225 50 16s are nipping at 140 mph when I'm in 4th 1:1 Hmmm. maybe your trannies stuck in 2nd gear or perhaps the tach is set for six cylinders. Using my tire size, 3.5 rear, and 9000 rpm in 2nd gear ratio from a T 350 of 1.52:1, that computes to 123 mph!!

Late 80s, My favorite was my 72 Toyota Hilux. Drove 200K with the 4 and then had some fun. Next round it had a cammed, Holley manifold, 600dp, 4.3 V6 and a 700r4. The super low 1st gear, 3.06 + 4.11s out back even allowed me to do tow a trailer + john Deer skid loader. (Really not smart with a mini truck, but.. Many a V8 engine or misc. parts would be taken from here to there. Really a sleeper, 4X4 wood bumper and plenty of rust in its final years. mid 20s mpg. I drove it in the Hybrid configuration for 150K+ trouble free miles. Looked alot like this except I had matching ugly rims and slapper bars on the rear leafs

Sounds like a legitimate question. Plenty of variables like tire/ wheel choice, other suspension mods. Your specs seem pretty close to what I have running for the last 7- 8 years, a 6 qt Kevco oil pan and 4" under the dual 2.5" exhaust. I have no problems with speed bumps or roll over curb in front of my drive. Never hit anything since I dumped the MSA lowering springs and switched to Ariz Z car springs/ 16 centerlines/ 205 50 front/ 225 50 rear. IMO, Exhaust is a better sacrifice than oil pan when it comes to clearance. With my earlier Procharged V6 really low sump, MSA springs I had less than 3".. couldn't clear a roadapple. Looked really cool but not good. Completely happy the way the V8 sits now.

Hey Jeff, I ran a one piece solid -8 aluminum from the pump (Mallory 140) to my return regulator (boost regulated Mallory), then another back to the tank. I pretty much followed the stock route through the trans tunnel using 1/2" metal conduit brackets with a piece of rubber line around to insulate from abrasion. I also use a driveshaft safety loop as a unrestrained broken shaft could shred the tunnel and fuel lines. Its hard to see from pic but I brought the inlet from the trans tunnel well under the battery tray, far away from headers, into the regulator. The return line is closer to the headers, but they are coated and felt it a non-issue for its use. I always thought I could safely run a 100-150 NOS shot using this single pump system with my 383 as others around here seem to get by running single digits in heavier cars using the same pump. I make considerably less hp than sea level so more fudge factor. Keep us posted.

Congrats Mike! Now where's the video?

This is out there, but maybe worth mentioning. Years ago I had a bind in a u joint that only presented under deceleration. As I recall, was more of a shudder than clunk. Also look for shiny/ wear spots on anything that rotates, all the way up to the transmission that would indicate contact. Did you use a new diff mount? Was the diff opened for the LSD install? Slim possibility that one of the ring gear bolts is making contact in the case? Recheck all flange, 1/2 shaft and drive shaft bolts to insure that none were binding, all mating surfaces show no gaps.

pm sent...

Fresh air can make a world of difference under the hot hood of a carb'd Z. Interesting use of carb hat for fresh air. I was always concerned if there would be enough air flow from one snorkel. Is that a production piece or custom made?

What he said, except for only 7 years. No part number, octagonal, has an A2 stamped on the middle.