John Scott

Hard to get used to the new smooth hood profile, no big blower is kind of like losing that timeless pin up girl posing on the hood. Enjoying the evolution with you die hard Z fanatics. Track numbers will be great!

Like zeeboost said, too many variables. One thing for certain is go with an overdrive auto or standard trans. Even my lumpy bumpy 600+ lift solid roller in 383, 750 double pumper and 6 speed, gets mid 20s. Really, if I would drive it at the speed limit, 75 & under and light on the pedal, I'm sure upper 20s. FI can be better yet. MPG is no excuse to convert to V8. Have fun! Good thing with the old Zs is that if you are really desperate for ultimate mpgs, the floors are usually rusted out providing for great Fred Flintstone kind of propulsion.

4* timing will barely give your carb enough vacuum to work with, sloppy low end. A mild cam w/ less than 220 degrees @ .050 should have at least 10-12, under 240 14-16, 260 18 - 20. A blubbery big cam sound with low timing at low idle is not going to impress anyone when you stomp the pedal. Kick the timing up to at least 10-12, set your idle mixture and idle speed. I think you'll be surprised with the difference. Make sure your total timing isn't over 36 total. Oil on the plugs and timing have no correlation other than if you do have an oil consumption problem, the engine will be much more prone to detonation. Hopefully your wet plug is just gasoline and hasn't fired, or just a simple valve stem seal leak, not worn valve stems, or rings. Get your entire ignition system in perfect condition, plugs, wires, cap etc. Then your fuel system, pressure, jetting and so on. Its easier than chasing a bunch of problems in random directions.

Image of the stubs easy to see the difference For what ever its worth my 2009 OBX install, after correcting the gear direction, crappy fasteners, using McMaster washers etc is still quieter than the stock diff ( no thumps, bumps, or gear noise) no flaws or failures to date.

Few could keep a project this long. Looks great and the best is yet to come! Kudos on your unreal determination and passion.

Thanks for the replies and support. I blew the lunate/ schaphoid ligaments in both wrists. The upper bones settled into the void, went arthritic, lots of bone contact. Right was worse so I tried a partial fusion, but bone collapsed causing screws to grind off cartilage. Second surgery, even though only two months from first was too late. Now almost total contact wrist to radius. Nearly all last spring and summer were in a cast, splint. Only solution is now to fuse solid. I can turn palm up and down, but that's the extent of movement. I requested the 10 degree dorsiflection for pushing strength. It will work better for weight lifting, hopefully biking and popping off a few .40 S&W rounds at the range. My whole life has been in construction, metal smithing, has been drummer, and car nut. No one touches my nuts but me Right now I'm in a pissy mood, so I'll wait and see what I can do before jumping to conclusions. Here's the new hardware I get tomorrow morning:

This is going to be my second summer without being able to really drive or work on my Z. Three right wrist surgeries, fusion have now made it impossible to wrench, and nearly impossible to drive. Left in need of partial fusion. No fun just looking at it in the garage. This version, 383 6 speed going on 9 years without any hitches, but due for some freshening up. Not going to happen, and can't see it with an auto. Its kind of disappointing to see how few original HybridZ members there are who still have and drive their cars. 16 years with my Z may be coming to a close.

Years ago a member named juju (Lee) discovered this and posted the how to. '01 maybe? Lost in the archives? I found a metal replacement slave for my T56 w/ T5 bell-camaro slave and has been trouble free for 9 years. I used a hair dryer and re shaped it slightly. Nice to have a few images. ---------------------- Ok...I sent this to John in another post, but I thought I would list these part numbers in it's own topic for anyone that my need them. These are the part numbers for the 7/8" clutch master cylinder and hydralic hose that will connect right to the stock Camaro/Trans Am slave cylinders with no modifications. The only thing that has to be done to use this setup, is to knock out the top (master cylinder) mounting stud and drill another hole about 1/4" higher than the (stock) top hole. This isn't hard to do...just set the master cylinder up there, mark the new hole, and drill it. Actually, you will knock both mounting studs out, because the new master cylinder has it's own mounting studs included. But the main thing is there are NO modifications to the slave cylinder, NO fittings or adaptors to track down, and NO hose to be special made. Here are the part numbers... ---Master Cylinder Part Numbers--- BrakeWare - 12117 Bendix - 12117 Wagner - F110710 Raybestos - CMA39580 ---Hydralic Hose Part Number--- Ford Motor Company - E3TZ7A512A I'm not sure about the slave cylinders used with the T56 6-speed, but those of you with the T56 might want to look at one of these master cylinders next time you go to the local parts store to see if they will work for you also. The master cylinder that I listed above uses the "Non-Threaded" hose connection exactly like the slave cylinders used on mid-late '80s Camaros and Trans Ams. The hose that I listed above is long enough to connect the master and slave cylinders. The stock Camaro/Trans Am hose is not long enough. Hope this help some of you guys out. Lee

so true!

Just to add. I'm on my 9th year with only one $2.00 waterpump gasket failure, 383. Otherwise the most reliable rock solid engine I have built. I used the 9000 series cast crank, and yes many turn these 7500, 500+ hp with no issues, the 5000 limit is a bunch of bull. Forged SRPs Zero gaps, forged Scat rods, professionally balanced, afr 195s, Vic Jr, HolleyHP 750, Isky solid roller 244@ .050, 613/582 108, CC Pro mag RRs. I used a double roller timing set, Melling pump (SBC) with Chro-Mo oil pump shaft, 6 qt Kevco baffled pan. -8 aluminum lines with Mallory 140 pump with return style regulator. Trouble free Mallory unilite with MSD 6AL, chipped to 7200. 6-speed Tremec and Dual friction Gold, also never failed. Pure stock underside, no rail reinforcement. MSA sway bars and strut bars front and rear, AZ-car springs. OBX R200 rear. I've never twisted up the body or any other parts. Road racing is way harder on cars than my style of spirited but hard driving and numerous drag strip visits. I don't baby this engine and it has never failed. Just .02 from someone who has one with an extended history. Your results may vary. Have some fun!!

Any videos going through the cones?

Just curious, why recommend 300 hp the breaking point and require chassis reinforcement? I'd guess plenty here with considerably more hp, maybe more relevantly 500++ ftlbs with nil problems.

It wouldn't matter if you had a 100 cfm 1 barrel or a 1050 Holley Dominator. Rich as possible will only foul the plgs and give poor performance. You want the air fuel ratio, at wide open, to be about 12.8:1 to 13.2:1 for max power regardless which carb you run. I'll probably get flamed, but the Edlebrock isn't really a performance carb. Great street manners, just not ideal for max power/ max performance. A properly tuned double pumper will give more peak hp and is very streetable. Most don't want to spend the time learning how to tune. 600 cfm is a good size, getting what you have working well together can uncover some hp. Ignition should be dialed in before carb tuning. Time on a dyno or at the track tuning is priceless compared to wondering if a change you made really affected the performance.

Excellent Jeff! Congrats. ....sure you don't have your mother-in-law in the hatch?

Not really into them, though owned quite a few, still do. Volvo P210 Duett : 1960-69 ? http://www.cartype.com/pages/4620/volvo_p210_duett__1968

The extra gear really is useful if you don't mind better mileage. Personally I wish I had two more gears to enjoy. My neighbor's Camaro with second round rebuild WC T5 with the mighty stock 305 lasted two runs at our local dragstrip. He smoked the second gear synchro... again. If you babyshift the T5 it might last forever, even with colossal amounts of hp. If you built your Z to be 100%, to take some real hp and abuse, you have the propensity to drag launch the car and speed shift, wide open throttle, then go for the menial weight gain and minimal one time clearancing of the trans tunnel for the reliability of the T56. Why create a weak link? Its not a lot of fun to pull these for the Xth time in the Z chassis. I've never regretted spending more on a stronger component or overkill strength on a particular part. It means I can drive 150 miles to the track, bang gears like a madman, then drive home at 80 plus in 6th gear, relaxed rpm, getting 25++ mpg in a roller cammed 383.

wow. all it takes to tune a carb is to turn a screw and adjust a float, maybe change a jet if you are mechanically inclined...lol! What was I thinking reconfiguring every emulsion hole,jet,and bleed on my n/a carburetor? That's with an E, by the way. Blow through carburetion is an art as much as a science. Some random considerations, admittedly my experience is dated. You realize carbs need little psi but high volume. With A Holley, for example you'll want to keep the fuel pressure about 7 psi over the boost. 10 psi = 17 fuel pump psi. You'll also need a way to bleed the pressure off immediately when you are running full boost and then let off. Washing down the cylinders with over rich mixture, blowing the needle and seat, or worse yet hydro-locking the engine is ugly. Don't ask how I know. Most carbs can't handle high pressure at the needle and seat anyway. Not enough pressure and you make wiffle ball-like piston tops. Have a boost regulated regulator with return line. Questions: Can the carb body, float bowls be designed to handle boost. Will floats collapse? How about the fuel curve designed in the carb itself. There are many bleeds, emulsion holes, powervalves, venturi that are designed for n/a. Add boost and you've upset the equation. You do want to drive this other than WOT, right? Check here for some basics: http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=f45d653824f89440d10d1d6663f3d4b7&board=13.0 When Innovate forums gets up and running again, check them out as well. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/ Beyond the blatant naivete, your idea sounds really cool. I hope you can pull it off.

Search button is almost magic I found one a decade ago for the T5 bell housing: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6532-slave-cylinder-for-a-t-56/page__p__48290__hl__slave+cylinder__fromsearch__1#entry48290 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6810-help-clutch-problems-holding-me-up/page__st__20__p__50188__hl__slave+cylinder__fromsearch__1#entry50188 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6408-metal-not-plastic-slave-cyl/page__p__47575__hl__ford+clutch+master__fromsearch__1#entry47575 ford master for T5 clutch: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6316-t5s/page__p__47072__hl__ford+clutch+master__fromsearch__1#entry47072 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6322-yo-lee/page__p__47114__hl__ford+clutch+master__fromsearch__1#entry47114 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/6327-clutch-master-cylinder-solution-for-t5s/page__p__47123__hl__ford+clutch+master__fromsearch__1#entry47123 10 years old and still relevant. Mine is untouched, metal and no issues. Somewhere in the archives there is info regarding the use of a Ford F150 clutch master. One hole altered in the firewall, 3 minutes with a drill (?), and bolts up. This system has proven to be flawless since 2000.

We know a Paxton has been done, and Procharger on a 4.3 V6. For JTR placement, I always wondered if a custom mounted reverse rotation would work in the Z's bay. FastFrog's Paxton Z:

I love these time travel posts. Has this ever been used on a high perf. application? I think the idea is innovative. Could flexing and lack of rigidity of the trans mount be a good thing? I always thought rigid means more power to the rear. Open to new ideas though. Long before I knew about JTR or Hybrid Z for that matter we made this cute little cross member. It was double walled, but needed plenty of floor reinforcement. Originally for a 4.3 procharged w/ '86 vette 700 R4, Super light yet strong. If they don't make it or you don't like it, get creative! That's a huge part of the satisfaction of building your hybrid. All my fabbed stuff, motor mounts, cross member, blower mount, I made from cardboard templates while my engine and trans sat on a stack of 2x6s in the car, then took to a fabricator. I used JTR for my next V8 adventure and was fine. A little tweaking for flat to floor fit. Too heavy..? then your engine needs more ponies (yep you got to beat the crap out of the tunnel and maybe bend the JTR cross member to sit flat)Too low drive line angle? Shim the mount, too high shim the cross member. Simple. In short the JTR is bone-headed simple and works fine. It wouldn't take much to improve the design. trial fitting w/ 700r4

I feel for you though. Back when we had just a handful of members, SuperDan gave Scottie-GNZ and my self, 4.3 Vortec, a V6 area to play in. Of course, Scottie went on to notorious V6 turbo fame. Ahhh, The good ol' days...

You're not alone. Carb'd LSXs are cool!

Dynos are great to get ballpark tuned, but so much changes on a hot track, hood closed, wind resistance, etc. etc. IMO, Better yet tune at the track. The faster the mph, the more hp you are putting down. Timeslips > dyno sheets. You are actually doing what the car is designed for, not strapped to rollers with a big fan blowing on it. Dyno's can't help much tuning the carb for launch, 60'. 195 whp equates to about 96 mph in a 2750 lb car.

Bog with black smoke out rear, too much accel pump shot, either too large of squirter(s) or too long of shot duration. Too lean also will bog, really lean will often backfire out top of carb. Also could be secondary spring not well matched to engine, too light causing premature opening. IMHO, i prefer tuning mechanical secondaries. Fewer items to mess with and no question if they're open. Lots of threads on regulators, best being return style.