John Scott

Initial tests were dissapointing on the 1.6 rocker swap to the intake side. This made for a 624/585. Perhaps I was already near the ideal intake lift for my afr 195s. S.O.P.D (seat of pants dynometer) says big loss in low end response and no gain on top. My guess is that the loss was not due to the slightly lower lift in exhaust, but rather changing the port velocity on the intake side. I'll be going back to their original setting, 585/624. John

Also, the 950 hp series carb that produced the best figures in the april super chev...is a 750 body with an 850 plate. Holley decided to jump on the bandwagon of rating carburetors according to PONTENTIAL flow. The smaller body really helps the velocity. Other tuners like AED ect have similar models based on the 750 body as well for way cheaper than the hps, might be the way to go. So Mike, if you want to sell me yours..I'll throw in my Demon, some 4.3 valve covers, old Qjet, 68 442 emblems, and a pretty good used dog. John

Not really looking for input as much as sharing my recent test. What works for my engine and components, at high altitude etc. probably won't fit into someones elses experience. Bagged the pretty Race Demon. Makes a nice paper weight for my car receipts. My buddy had his 377 apart so his old BG 1040 cfm was availible for a test run. Remember when Barry Grant use to modify Holleys? Pre Demon? He should have stuck to it, because this thing ROCKS!! Pulls smoothly from 2000 cruisng in 5th where The Demon just bucked. Power everywhere. All the recommendations I've had to stay on the conservative side of cfm. I've made the bigger isn't better mistake before, but not this combination. Mid sixties today and you'd swear the roads are covered with ice. Triple digits so fast its scarey. My poor poor tires Now I've got to get those 1.6s on the Intake side, just in case... John

I'm not really sure what you're after, but I think you're missing out on a lot of potential hp using the truck motor design- i.e. GET SOME CAM IN THERE! I've seen zits with better specs than that profile My 262 V6 cam was way bigger. With the big cubes of the 383 you can make a mid 240s/ mid 500s lift 110-112 lsa cam very streetable. Torque is already the 383s middle name, in the lightweight Z you'll love the big mid upper range hp gains. John

Mine ended up needing .200 longer than stock. Heads brand new, cc pro mag rockers. Perhaps it was the cam base circle? Was block decked? I wonder how a plastic rocker arm can verify the differences is rocker ratio, or even make to make. I battled different rockers of different make i.e. Alum cc, harland sharp, crane on my Dart Pro1s of same ratio either hit or cleared retainers, and had different contact area on the stems. They don't all sit the same on the studs. My AFRs use CC pro mags, formerly (Hitech) one of the best for weight and durability IMO. I'd use the pushrod checker with the rockers to be used. John

Most likely you'll have the stock length, 7.8". Aftermarket heads, rockers cams can all change geometry even if only slightly. Rule of thumb is to have the roller tip in the middle of your valve stem at 1/2 of you cam lift. This is after setting your valve lash solid cam (cold) to specs first. A good eyeball can verify the tip is the same distance from centerline closed as it is away from centerline at full lift. Comp cams has a good article on this in their tech help area. http://www.competitioncams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/ They also make a fool proof push rod checking tool that changes length a predetermined amount per revolution, .05. I used the pn 7703-1, push rod length checker #3 for standard and longer. If you don't want to purchase one you can borrow mine. I shouldn't be needing it until next engine. Check out the cc site and read the tech. E-mail me and I'll be glad to send it to you. Another tip, trick flow makes a good one piece cold formed 4130 pushrod .080 thick, chamfered holes for less than others. Sizes are etched on the sides for easy verification. PS>Rereading your post I see your cam is hydraulic, so might require a solid lifter of same length, or perhaps a super light valve spring to check accurately. I honestly am not sure how its done with the hydraulic lifter. I'd call your cam company for length and checking recommendations. John

Then again if you are running 2 1/2 exhaust, then you want the 2 1/2 collector. Better to flow into the same size pipe. Not many will fit dual 3s under a Z. Running a block hugger through a muffled exhaust will minimize any losses compared to a tuned full length exhaust with a muffler, so again we make concessions unless a full race applications. I think too many of us beat ourselves up trying to make the perfect beast. I've found a healthy V8 will rarely, if ever have any competition on the street. Yes there is always someone faster, but you'll find they usually live on trailers or spend most of the time in a garage. John

AFR disputes the angle plug theory. I asked them the question and was told their heads make the same hp angle or straight. More relevent to the old style factory heads. I have straight plug 195s, Rewarder headers with plenty of room for wires and plug r&r. I understand your wanting to wring every bit of power, but block huggers are already a compromise. Going racing for titles and trophies, then maybe those couple of ponies will matter. I accepted the fact and went for fewer headaches and better ground clearance with my 1 3/4 rewarders. From the looks of your engine design, you're going to have more power than you know what to do with so, bolt them babies on and enjoy the ride! John

I was having numerous problems. I had jurassic browser version that came with my aol for Mac. They said no upgrade avil. Hah! Updated to a 2001 5.1 on the side, all my old Mac can use, and have had 0 problems since. Security is on medium, show warning before loading.... edit:prefer:browser:security John

Can't see how you could go wrong with either choice. Probably splitting hairs on output. AFRs will ding your wallet for every upgrade. I went with bigger 7/16 studs and larger 1.550 valve springs, Ka-CHING$$. I paid around 1500+ for mine with upgrades. Have they gone up in price? I based my choice on the overwhelming positive comments on the drag boards. Obviously AFR has a bigger advertising budget. I'd never heard of the canfields until Grumpyvette recommended them. BTW I'm running 11:1 with a 244 duration and have no detonation on pump premium gas. John

I ran one for 5+ years on my 4.3 V6. Modification of the universal bracket was needed. I have my doubts about it fitting a V8 in the JTR position. Reverse rotation head with custom bracket might be the ticket. My experience was that ATI had a really sound reliable unit. John

This is the second article I've read where the bigger than expected dp carb has produced more av tq and hp. I'm wondering if current theory might be wrong for sizing. In the other test a Demon (sigh) jetted down had way better figures than another smaller Demon cfm carb. John

Mike what are the engine specs, comp ratio, cid, cam, heads etc, for the Super Chev engine? The 750dp seems like a great deal and within a few hp of the mighty hp series. Anyone want a shiny Road Demon for cheap? John

Read where?? Better yet, tell me what you've read. John Anyone else having troubles with sig. pictures covering the text???

I've now read many posts on the drag boards that would suggest most cars improve their times sustantially by replacing with same size Holley. There's a few, but not many Demon fans. I'm not one. John

I tired every trick in the book...including the Demon handbook. My cam, 244 @.050 .585, 108 pulls 12" at idle. It turns out air bleeds have been changed. anything more than 1/4 turn on mixture screws (4 corner)results in too rich. The penalty of buying a used dyno carb. I'm not hearing too many good things about these carbs. A few work well, but many have wierd gliches. I'm leaning towards the HP series 750 as it runs great right out of the box...unless of course you mess with it until it doesn't. John

SuperDan, when you do update the member's rides section, please delete mine since it was two cylinders and many fewer hp ago. Thanks. John

SwEEEEEt #s!! Gotta get that monster to the track. John

According to the comparo tests I've read vs airgap rpm, the victor jr is surprisingly close at lower rpms, then cleans up at higher. Your cam choice will determine which will work better. RPM has the edge for low end torque. In my situation I'd gladly have a little less low end as traction is already nonexistent. Driving today with cool temps, even a slight tip in, primaries only, in 2nd brings severe wheel spin. The victor jr fits fine under the hood, but recommend the early Z28 drop base repro air cleaner base. I run mine with a 4" K&N. Note there are different victor jrs, the lowest profile is the one that fits. John

Whassup with my gauge? Only reads 1/2 or less, regardless of full tank since I reinstalled it. Never messed with the inside.

You might want to consider a monolithic floor/foundation. As the name implies the foundation and floor are poured in one continuous pour. Advantages are not needing a sperate foundation which usually requires two seperate pours for footing and wall, or in your case, a cinder block, and less soil is disturbed for backfill and subgrade compaction. Look into building codes in your area. Usually have to be deeper than frost line and have two strands rebar in the trenches. A reputable concrete contractor should be able to give a firm bid and know the details for your area. Too bad you're not a little closer. NOBODY puts in a better slab than my company. Flat as a mirror and smoother than any babies butt. Unfortunately over 25 years experience. John

I have the recommended instructions for bedding in the pads, 6-10 stops from 35, then 2-3 from 45mph, cool for 15 min, don't drag brakes...,but wondered if new rotors added any special concerns....Still saving for my Big brakes John

L98 heads, Holy $#&+! Good points. I thought my builder was going wack-o on me when he said he usually, but not always, puts the higher ratio rocker on the intake. OH man! Sounds like I need to break out the G-tech and try some different combos...and to get up on current reading.John

Mike, I found that different rockers sometimes require different pushrod lengths, even though the ratio is the same, of course as long as the roller tip is centered on the stem @ 1/2 total lift. I needed longer than standard to clear my 1.550 springs with the CC promags. No clearance issues with either ratio. Your information is interesting. I'd like to hear more. So, in theory, if a good head doesn't need more exhaust lift than intake, The 99.9% of the cams listed in my catalogs need to be changed from the dual pattern. I'm really curious if the Crower engine you mention has conventional 23 degree heads. If so, than perhaps its time to rethink cam designs again. My 27 years of shade tree hot rodding has seen single pattern cams evolve into what was referred to as hi tech dual pattern with asymmetirc lobes and what have you. Maybe I need to put my band-aid crutch 1.6s on the intake side. Thats what was making the most power on the Dart 215 heads. BTW the most effecient engine I've seen is running a 1.6 on both I/E. Nearly 3000 pounds NA 377. 6" rod, 11:1, Cam specs are 265 @ .050 .585, 106 lsa, single 4 barrel, small ancient unported Brodix track 1s. @ our 6000' this converts to a sea level low 10.30s @ low 130mph, 520 whp!! ..and is street driven on pump gas I guess my point is the blanket statements of don't use 1.6 rockers, don't run more than 10:1 compression (Mine has 11.2 and does fine) don't use a single plane manifold,blah blah, can have their exceptions with great results. I guess too often the average Joe will try to push More's law without upgrading or researching the rest of the components. John

Most aftermarket shifters come with a reverse light switch. John