Tim240z

Dan, I did not shorten the rod at all....granted I don't ahve much more adjustment, but it's just fine now....I found it easier to drill out the pedal 'clamp thingy' and weld a nut to it... Tim

From what I remember (it's been a few years), you can burn out the rubber, then, with a hacksaw, cut out a strip of the sleeve, then with a screwdriver, or thin chisel, knock out the sleeve by collapsing it in on itself at the cut area. Tim

Ehh...200* ain't nuttin'. I wouldn't be concerned....don't chase a problem that really isn't there. I've always used aftermarket thermostats in all my cars...they're fine, and 200* isn't anything special for a max mark. Hell...my LT1s don't even kick on the fan until 220*....different application I know, but......

Uhhh...JTR kit will not work with the ZX. I believe that the driver's side is the issue with manifolds...do a search, I believe it has been solved by a few members in a few different ways. Dave Greimann found an OEM chevy manifold that works and has posted many pics....search under his user name "Greimann" Tim

If you plan on changing the pump, might as well go for the electric. I just put a stocker back on. If you want something a little wilder than the crane cam, the GM 847 is also good and doesn't kill the driveability of the car: PN**** DURATION LIFT (1.5)LIFT (1.6) LSA 12370846 222 230 .509 .528 .543 .563 *112 12370847 232 242 .539 .558 .575 .595 *112 The 846 listed above is very similar to the Crane 305. Many of the F-Body guys end up upgrading from the Crane to the GM.... Tim

Mike, Is your program in TunerCar .bin file format? I'd be curious to see what the differences ended up being from stock....

Thread Hijack!! Mike, Did you do any reprogramming when changing cams? Diod you try both of those cams?

Ha ha ha that's priceless!!

I don't see anything wrong with the 18s, except price of rims and tires! They do fill the arches nicely, but I do think that having a rubber band wrapped around them 'sometimes' looks to racey to me.....as long as you have the HP to back up the looks Also, if you have open spoke style rims, hopefully you plan to run some big brakes.....it REALLY looks silly when a car has huge rims with tiny rotors and calipers....... Tim

With my T56, I used the Tilton 7/8 bore universal master cylinder. Direct bolt up, except for the threads on the pedal where the pushrod threads in to. The master's rod is SAE threads, the Datsun's pedal is metric. Easy fix. Pedal feel is great...softer than my Z28 (which is pretty hard). Summit part number: TIL-74-875U

Putting on a bigger fan is going to do nothing for you at freeway speeds. Is your radiator well sealed at the sides? mabe at higher speeds, the air is going around the radiator, instead of through it. Tim

I don't want to get in the middle of this, and I have no real opinion on the wheels....whatever floats your boat, but: I think you just gave a very succinct definition of what "rice" actually is!!

I just clicked on the thumbnail to pull up the full size pic. Then I right clicked it, selected 'Properties' and cut and paste the URL with the [/img] tags. Tim

U mean this one:

Do you have a cable and TunerCat yet (and FreeScan)? Depending on the condition of the existing parts replace: Coil - $30 Opti - $300 Water pump - $200 Plugs and wires - $100 Injectors (30lb) - $250 Then: 58mm TB Port intake Port Heads Cam (Crane) - $300 Roller Rockers - $200 (all prices listed approx) Tim

By the looks of the feedback on that auction, the vendor is reputable. Looks promising. Just keep in mind that you have ~$1000 worth of 'accessories' to complete that engine. Tim

Eric....I've always thought exactly the same thing....although I love the look, something, something small, just isn't quite right! I've pictured (in my mind) a wing on the rear, but that doesn't seem right either. Maybe a 'racing stripe' down the middle to break up that large expanse of horizontal plane? It needs something to 'set it off'.... Tim

I made mine myself, but it may be the same basic idea as the JTR one: http://tim240z.iwarp.com/photo.html Look at the 2nd picture down for the installed version: http://tim240z.iwarp.com/photo3.html

Corvettes and Trans Ams/Camaros from 93 to 97..... Tim

I fixed the link. The motor is definitely NOT in the Scarab position. The car needs a lot of work, but likely worth the asking price, but look into your emissions rules for your area.

Eric, As always, great insightful information!! I like the setup, but I also like to see the thumbnails instead of page numbers, otherwise--great!

Can you expand on "looks like crap"?

How will you ensure that the shaft stays perfectly straight? Thos shafts are heat treated/hardened (at least surface). I wouldn't do it. Can you imagine those two halves flapping around at the end of a 1/4 mile run at 90+ mph.

Like Bill says, do a search in the Chev forum using LT1 as the keyword. Click on my www down below.....