Tim240z

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You could build the tube frame to accept all of the stock Z panels, doors etc. It will mean cutting the roof off the donor and grafting it to the tube frame. Fenders, quarter panels etc, I would go 'glass. You could mount the original doors and go with the frilly stuff (electric windows etc) if you like. Tim

For the $$$ you would put into a MSA 4 Core, why not rather get an aluminum radiator. Those brass radiators are heavy as hell!! Tim

280ZX N/A rear disks and calipers with Maxima bracket. Tim

Try little chunks of dry ice. Drop it into the divvet, and it should contract and pop out. Tim

Get new wire. Don't over tighten the tension. Make sure that the cable is straight. Also set your wire speed just fast enough to feed the weld and no faster. I also have a CE welder and it works great!! Tim

Hmmm...sounds like a short somewhere, but you said you went through all the wiring. Have you had the starter bench tested for shorts? What is the RPM 'tickle' point for the alternator. maybe (and I'm sure that you've tried this), give it a good rev to make sure that the alternator hits it's charge speed. All I can think of off the top of my head. BTW, how do you know it's not charging? Using a voltmeter, or relying on the gauge? Good luck!!! Tim

The relay is just a little switch. It has (usually) 4 tabs (elec. connectors) on it. 1> Battery positive (directly from battery source) 2> Positive output to the accessory (headlights in this case) 3> Switch positive 4> ground (earth) In relaxed mode the relay is open (no current going to the access.) When you provide current from the switch (headlight switch in this case), it closes the contacts on the relay allowing juice to the lights (full battery juice). The advantage to the relay use is that the power going through the switch is minimal. It only takes a very low amperage to close the relay. Thus, the lights (or other accessories) get full juice without burning out the switch. Stock early Z headlights don't draw that much amperage so it's not THAT big of a deal. Although, by putting in a relay, even with the stock lights, the lights will shine brighter, because you can give 'em more juice and not worry about the switch burning up. Here is a good article if you need more detail: http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=relay.htm&url=http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/relay_basics.htm Hope this helps. Tim

If you really want to stay with the Z concept, I would build a full tube frame chassis with the correct 'pick-up' points for the AWD system that you want to use, then just 'hang' Z bodywork (which most is available in fiberglass) on the frame. You will never be successfull with the stock unibody. Good luck!!! Tim

Three or four 'prong' relay....doesn't ,matter which one. Do yourself a huge favour and get a catalogue from Waytek Wire ( http://www.waytekwire.com/ ) Tim

Matt, I cracked the weld on the breather pipe coming out of the top of the tank on the driver's side. I tried JB since it was the only thing I had. Left it overnight, then filled the tank the next day. The fuel destroyed the JB and it leaked. I tried several things until I found the Seal-It, or maybe it's called Seal-ALL, can't remember. I was very sceptical because it looks just like plastic model cement....clear and runny. Once it cured though, it was hard as rock!!! It's been 2 years now and no problems at all. I would not bother with anything else if I need to seal a tank in the future..This stuff ROCKS!!!! Tim

Works OK for me!

https://web9.tdl.com/jags/OrderingBooks.html I assume you are referring to the JTR manual. Tim

I've never had luck with JB Weld and fuel tanks!! Crimp it and then put some "Seal-It" on the crimp. You can find it at Home Depot. It is especially formulated for sealing gas tanks, "Jerry" Cans radiators etc. VERY good stuff!! If you want to weld on the tank and worried about fuel vapors, drain the tank, and seal all but 2 of the openings, then hook it up to the tail pipe of another can and run the car for 10-15 minutes. Then weld away. Tim

Yeah but that would be some VERY SERIOUS wow factor!!! Tim

You gonna stop in on the way to the MSA WCNs? Tim

Ditto that!

John, Have you 'road tested' these. Do they effectively vent the underhood hot air? Would they be more effective with a 'Gurney lip' on the trailing edge? Thanks, Tim

Although it is a low milage car, it is still 30 years old. I personally can't see paying that much, but that's just me. If it is as perfect as they claim, might be worth it.

Oh Damn!! Hell I wasn't even born yet....I guess I just wouldn't understand!! Tim

By your Wife? Tim