Tim240z

Brian, I seem to remember you saying that the runon was solved if you pulled the choke prior to shutdown? If that is the case, I still think that the problem is leaness. Does it help if you let the engine idle for a while before shutting down? If you're planning on coming on Sunday, we can take another look. Tim

You still need to vent the cell, otherwise it will distort. Whether or not you put in a VRS is up to you and the Regs. Tim

Pretty easy job, but you will probably need to get the car in the air a little....the on board jack (spare tire one) should be ok. Disconnect the battery and the two wires on the starter and two bolts and out it comes. Stop by a JY if you can...there should be lots there for much cheaper, and these starters are pretty robust, so a used one will probably last a long time. Tim

Do a search in either the non-tech board or the announcement board. I asked the same thing some time back (about a year I think) and someone posted a huge list of acronyms Here it is...found it! Tim

Sounds like the ignition was stuck in the 'start' position and the starter was engaged. Try one of two things: 1. get some dry graphite lubricant and lube the starter tumbler 2. get a push button starter button and bypass the ignition switch. Tim

Thanks Man. I will pull a sound file this weekend and likely email it to you on Monday (T1 at work beats dialup at home!!) Tim

"Ah say, Ah say...use your head boy...that's no dog, son, that's a chiggin hawwk!" ....sorry that's my best Foghorn impression....man has this postgotten diluted, or what ? Tim

Yeah I had problems with the S&S full length block hugger headers. I ended up making up a set of Tri-Ys, full length (1.75, into 2.25, into 3), then into dual 2.5" into single 3". Single Dynomax muffler in the back. Sounds pretty mellow, while not under any load. I may still weld in a crossover tube between the duals (at the collectors), and if still not happy, I will put in some bullet type mufflers in the duals, but at this point it sounds wonderful as is! header pics Header pics Tim

Pete, I can take some clips with my IPAQ, but I don't think that I have the ability to post them to my website (I believe FreeServers will only image files), so I don't have a way to post them here. Tim

Try some tar and bug remover...aerosol from the parts store. Tim

Dj, That's Dan's old car isn't is? Sweet kill man!! Tim

John, I got a lot of my wiring supplies from Waytek wire. Probably not the absolute cheapest around, but definitely cheaper than parts stores, home depot etc, and their quality and service is very good. Here is their website. Get one of their catalogues. Well worth it. Tim

Dan, That's actually been around for a few years, but still very funny Tim

Well, over the weekend I tried to start it. Would run for 2 or 3 seconds and die. I assumed it had something to do with the VATS (hadn't edited the PCM yet). Then today I edited the PCM (TunerCat---love it!!). Tried to fire it again...same thing. Spent an hour tracing and checking current on all the wires/relays...all ok. 4 of the header tubes weren't getting hot. Check for spark..OK Figured it had to be the injectors. I tapped gently on the 'bad' ones with a wrench. Tried again and Voila!!! Purrs like a kitten. The exhaust note is low and even, and very smooth. Oil pressure Voltage idle sound home made pulley system Just need to put water in and check the cooling system. Well needless to say, I'm totally jazzed!!! Now on to the body work Am so excited had to post and glow a little Tim

Steve, Make sure that you don't have any air in the system. If your rad. sits lower than the rest of the system, that could be the prob. Try jacking up the front of the car, or parking on a steep hill and let it run with the cap off, topping it up as necessary. Also, check that the thermostat is working. I've had new ones that didn't. If you have a thermometer, try boiling some water, with the thermostat in it and see what temp it actually starts opening. Back off your timing a bit. I've found that 8 or 9 degrees works well for sea level. Check your plugs, make sure it isn't running too lean. Last thing I can think of, check that the bottom hose isn't collapsing (should have a spring inside, or something). Tim

OK, first of all, make sure that you replace both sides. Always do brake work in pairs (both sides). 1. Take off the front wheels and the calipers. (hook the calipers aside with some wire so that they are not stressing the brake lines) 2. pop off the dust cap for the wheel bearings 3. take out the split pin that holds the wheel bearing nuts on 4. loosen off the wheel bearing nut and pull off the hubs. 5. loosen the 4 bolts on the back side of the hub that holds the disk on. 6. replace the disk and reverse the above steps. *tip*: When retightening the wheel bearing nuts, do it slowly until there is no more 'play' in the bearings (check by holding the disk at 12 and 6 o'clock and rocking back and forth). Don't overtighten. Hope this helps. Tim

Matthew, Best thing to do, if you have some wheels already, is to take them to a machine shop and have them drill 4 new holes the correct pattern. Tim

Well I'd never heard of veronica zemanova, so i did a web search: Watch out!! Tim

When you can't even afford to pay attention, then you're in trouble Tim

Pep Boys, Kragen, Napa etc. Even Home Depot has it. Tim

OK,. Nevermind....I found an extensive writeup online.

Can any of you guys that have edited your PCMs confirm the sequence? I really want to do this, this weekend...... Thanks, Tim

This is probably going to make me sound stupid, but here goes anyway: When using LT1_Edit, or TunerCat, what is the sequence for getting things going? When do you hook up the laptop to the PCM? What level of power to the ECM when hooked up (ign. off with just backup power supplied, or ignition on, or car running. etc). I am assuming that I would read the PCM, make the required adjustments to the file and write it back to the PCM. Is this correct? All the help menu's (I'm going to be using TunerCat) are very specific and technical in nature and don't give the basics on hooking things up. Would someone here be able to provide such basic (read Goober) instructions? Thanks, Tim

Yeah, I agree, its the pump. My 73 has the electric one in the back and I actually get a warm fuzzy feeling when I hear it. If I can hear it, I know all is well with the world Tim

That follows that whole "warm fuzzy feeling" lol.I'm married so I'm happy to get that warm fuzzy feeling any way I can Tim