Tim240z

Go to the main page of the site. WWW.HybridZ.org and look at the left Nav bar. Under Tech section there are two articles, one for T56 and one for brakes. Click on the link for brakes, then on that page, click and hold and drag down and the text will appear. Tim

Actually, it's exactly the opposite. High caster will make the car more stable, but will also make steering effort higher and also tends to transfer more road vibration through to the steering wheel. You'll find cars that have very high caster angles will always have power steering. Cars with notoriously high caster angles are Mercedes and BMWs. HTH, Tim

Dan, Yeah easiest way is to do a plug pull, but the method is important. Get the car up to operating temp and run it hard and steady, like an open freeway run or something. Then cut the engine without having it idle or go through stop and go traffic. This is somewhat difficult unless you have an open track or good access to your house from an open road. Reason is, most times the car will run rich at idle and on and off accelerator action richens the mixture (acc. pump action). So in effect you want cut the engine at higher rpm to get a true reading. HTH. Tim

I think that the first tennant of any critique, is to be sure that you're correct in your own text."people who live in glass houses shouldn't throw stones" Let's dissect:(from the above quote) "Its" should be "It's" "english" should be "English" "that that" should be "like that" or "such as that" And that was just two of your sentences! Not trying to be a 'Butthead", but your post was not called for. Tim

Maybe so, but anything over "H" for our cars is completely overkill. Tim

Dan, Thanks for the response. I really am not after perfect tuning. After all, this is just my daily beater, which I spend as little as possible on so that I can focus on the LT1 conversion in the project car (only reason I put these on was because I got them for $20 bucks at the YD). I have tuned it as best as I can by ear (which is pretty close). I would like to see if the jets that are in there are at least close. I assumed that the jetting info would just be floating around as this is a fairly common carb swap....I guess I was very very mistaken. The car just doesn't pull like I think it should and has a stumble off idle. So I'm thinking either idle jets are off or pump jets are off....just don't know and to trouble shoot from scratch would be a PITA. I'll keep hunting. Thanks guys....I'll keep my questions V8 related from now on! Tim

TomoHawk, The writeup in the tech section is for the Toyo 4X4 upgrade and you can read it by highlighting the text with your cursor (text is the same color as the background, doh ). Just FYI Tim

KraZee, I believe it's been done anyway. There is very little left in this world that hasn't been done. But if you do go ahead and do it, you will be part of a very 'exclusive club' of V8 300Z cars. Do it for the enjoyment, no necessarily for glory as I can guarantee you, when you are done and the 'cheers' have subsided, you will be left with an empty feeling. If you do it for yourself, the sense of accomplishment will fill your heart and make you happy. As with anything in life, do it for yourself, not for anyone else. Sorry to get so metaphysical and philosophical. Tim

Mike, I believe that they specifically call out that the correct sensor is from a VTEC Honda. I reckon it must be different from the normal 1.5 Honda since they make a point of mentioning it? Tim

Here you go Mike: RATING SYMBOL km/h mph B 50 31 C 50 37 D 55 40 E 70 43 F 80 50 G 90 56 J 100 62 K 110 68 L 120 75 M 130 81 N 140 87 P 150 93 Q 160 99 R 170 106 S 180 112 T 190 118 U 200 124 H 210 130 V 240 150 W 270 169 ZR over 240 over 150 These MPH (or KPH) numbers are sustained 12hour speeds (failure point) Tim

Thanks Larry...appreciate the effort! Someone HAS to have these numbers?! Tim

If that's true: OMFG!!!!!!!!

Sorry...my bad Tim

According to their website, the partsbin has them in stock.Tim

B b b b ump

Pete, Just a thought: Have you checked that the installed height of the distributor is correct (ie, does the contact between dist. base and inlet manifold need to be shimmed). I remember when I installed a HEI in my truck with the new Edelbrock (Vortec) manifold I didn't check the freeplay on the dizzy shaft and it ended up grinding away the cap. (needed significant shimming) Tim

Found this article and looks very interesting for a home made air/fuel ratio meter. DIY WB Tim

Well all this talk about strokers and V6 conversions (see other post) has me thinking about doing something with my 2.4 Z daily driver when the V8 is done. Maybe you guys can give some thoughts/opinions on: L6 stroker in the 240 or, 3.8 V6 chev or, 2.8 L6 Turbo or, if this is feasible L6 stroker turbo? This will be a bare bones conversion (nothing like the current LT1 project), and since this will be a daily driver, reliability and fuel economy will be important. Just looking for something more than the lazy @$$ 2.4 L6 that I am currently running. Thanks, Tim

Just food for thought: When my Dad set the Land Speed Record in SA, (in a TT 427ci TA), he packed ice against the intercooler. This was at boost over a rolling 1 KM run. Good enough for 237+ MPH (averaged over 2 runs-one each direction). Tim

TZ, I think that they came off a 260Z. They are 32/36s. Any info you can muster would be appreciated. Tim

Dude, Given up on the V8 conversion?!

TZ, No implications made. I DID pay $20 at the local Ecology yard on a 50% off day. That's 10 each!! And, to top things off, someone had already pulled them and hidden them behind some cinder blocks the day before (obviously to come back and get them on the discount day). Well....I just 'happened' to find them!!!!! So all the work was done for me!! All's fair in love, war and JY hunting, right! Tim