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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Mike, I still have a virgin copy of the sticker (awaiting a completed V8 project). If you like I can see if I can have it copied by a sticker place. I will supply to you at my cost. Here are the original posts on the topic: #1 #2 #3 Tim
  2. I think that it was FastFrog who originally put this all together, and Dave Booth (KC6WFS)was distributing for him. Tim
  3. Get a stock 240Z and drive it, then do the conversion and drive it....that'll give you all the info you could possibly need Tim
  4. I don't believe that it was the VATS that was causing the dying after start. After I disabled the VATS, it did the same thing. I unplugged the MAF and it was purrrfect. So I can only assume that the MAF is bad since when it defaults to speed density, it runs fine. So all in all, I don't think that the VATS was ever in the equation ( ) There's a head scratcher for you. Tim
  5. Are you getting power to the coil. Check the power wire to the coil with a volt meter or test light with the ign. on. If you are, check if the 'plug wire' from the coil to the dizzy is getting power. Just keep tracing down the line until you narrow things down. Have you checked the points and condensor. Replace them anyway, they are cheap. Tim
  6. Tim240z

    Went racing

    Hmmmm.....I'm still waiting for mine.....Owen?!!! Tim
  7. There are a couple of pics on my site, on the bodywork page (see signature for link). I did all the work in my garage. Tim
  8. I did the sheetmetal thing: Something like this? Tim
  9. Mike, The usual life of a bottle is five years, if it is stamped with a star, then it's 10 years from the printed date. That date only applies to transportation, and not useage. ie...if it is past its inspection date, it can still be use 'legally' but cannot be transported by public roads. That is covered by 49 CFR, which only applies to Intrastate and interstate commerce, so if it's for personal use, the expiration dates on the bottles are irrelevent. Tim
  10. Didn't do anything to the Computer. I *think* that that the switch is part of another harness, not the PCM harness. As a matter of fact, the thing fired without disabling the VATS. It didn't want to run more than a couple of seconds, but that was another issue. I disabled the VATS later anyway. Must be the way I have everything wired up I guess. Tim
  11. I'm using a 94 LT1 and have had no problem with not having a clutch switch. Tim
  12. That's it, Have you balanced the carbs? TIm
  13. You need to get a balance tool to make sure that both carbs are flowing the same air (vacuum). Need a sync tool for that. That is a basic piece of equipment needed to tune dual carbs. Without it, you really can't do anything, because you just don't know how each carb is working. You can get one from Victoria British, or JCWitney etc. Tim
  14. Idle is wayyy to high, you're probably off the idle circuit and on the mains. Should idle at about 750-800 warm. Choke will take care of cold idle. Have you sync'ed the carbs? Tim
  15. I am using TC on my LT1 and so far I love it. The car isn't on the road yet so I haven'tone anything extensive. Tim
  16. Built Ford tough, with Chevy stuff! I dig it....bitchin car...no matter whose 8 banger is sitting behind him!! Tim
  17. For TV cable setup, check this out. Takes all the guesswork out of it: Bowtie Overdrives Tim
  18. Just remember to 'wapp that waskle' Tim
  19. Mike, Just food for thought. Very good friends of ours (Wife and I), decided to go away for a weekend retreat, just before he was to have his little 'slice and dice'. Well, long story short, the scheduled operation was 2 days too late! Bouncing baby 10 months later! Tim
  20. I very much doubt it. I believe that the only ones that are even close to being fittable, are the S&S units, and even then they are very close, and in my case, with the T56, had to be completely redone. Tim
  21. Nice beater man. Keep an eye on the water pump though...it's a weak link (if it's still the original). Tim
  22. I am running a fuel cell too. 16 gal unit from Summit. I think that weight, foam filling and lack of corrosion are the big drivers, plus most (if not all) have built in sumps on the bottom. Also, it gave me more clearance for the exhaust routing. Tim Couple of pics on my site.
  23. Open offer: If anyone needs pistons from Ross Pistons, let me know. They are 5 miles from my house (El Segundo, CA). Their packaging is very bulky, and shipping is then obviously effected. If you want, I can pickup, rebox, and ship. I know that the several times that I have done this for overseas shipping the difference has been VERY significant!! Tim
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