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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Nah...the body can heal....save the car at all costs!! I'll have my trusty fire extinguisher handy Tim
  2. Joe, I am using the MSD inline pump. I haven't fired the engine yet, so I don't know how well they work. There was a recent post saying that they battle a bit of they are above the level of the fuel. The post was about 1 week ago, but sorry can't remember the title. Tim
  3. Almost. Just add some fluids, check all the wiring/relay connections, do a wrench check, edit the PCM (VATS esp.) and that should do it! Thanks for the info. Tim
  4. Billy, If you haven't decided on heads yet, do a search on Vortec heads. GrumpyVette had some very good suggestions on alternatives. I am using the Vortec heads on my 71 truck and am very happy with them. I bought the upgraded heads (stronger springs) from Scoggin Dickey an am running a L98 cam grind, but I think that the Iron Eagles are a better choice, but search away.... Tim
  5. Looking very good!! Nice and neat with the new sheetmetal!! BTW, what part of Philly are you in? I used to live in Newtown (NW of Philly). Tim
  6. More info needed: What compression ratio What heads What inlet what carb (or FI) What rear ratio what gearbox (trans) what size tires how will you use the vehicle etc etc Tim
  7. Sorry no comment...I'd get banned from this site..for sure. Tim
  8. Evidence: That big @$$ coffee can hanging off your V8 Z's tailpipe J/K...ya know it! Tim
  9. Just about any autoparts store, or if you're too lazy for that , order online from Summit, Jegs, HarborFreight and so on and so forth. Remember: Home Depot is for house stuff, and if you're REALLY lucky, someone there knows about that stuff. Tim
  10. That guy has got a great sense of humour 'bout his rice mobile He kinda puts the whole 'rice' mentality into a nutshell . Only thing that he's missing is some decals. Tim
  11. LOL, yeah, just watch out for that famous IRS squat Tim
  12. Jeremy, Sounds like your MC needs to bled some more, or your pushrod isn't set long enough? If you have a spare piece of hard breakline laying around, cut about 4 inches of pipe with the fitting on one end and put that on the outlet of the master cylinder with the open end in a bottle of brake fluid, then pump away. Once you stop getting air bubbles in the bottle of fluid, replace the regular (on car) brake line and continue bleeding at the calipers. I've found that once the MC is completely bled, opening the bleed screws at the calipers and letting the fluid gravity bleed for a cuple of hours (with the cap off the reservoir) helps to preclude air getting sucked back into the MC. HTH. Tim
  13. DAW, BTW, placing a verticle 'lip' on the leading edge of that cut out on the hood (about 1/4 inch sticking straight up) will increase the effectiveness of the duct dramatically. Tim
  14. I haven't heard much on the real world performance, it is not yet widely available, and being in the Pipeline industry, I am always trying to stay on top of such products. I believe that the price point would put this stuff out of reach of most of us. Plus unlike stuff like Hammerite or POR 15, the metal has to be shiny clean and has to be primered and then top coated with their system: $$$$$ I also am not aware of any non-industrial suppliers in the USA. If you come up with something more, please let us know. Tim
  15. The body on that car is absolutely beautiful!!! Not very often one sees such clean body lines and waveless sheetmetal. Kudos man...awesome piece of work!! Tim
  16. You could always take a page out of the boat guys' book and have the sidepipes made with a water jacket to keep things cool. Tim
  17. Maybe this is common knowledge, but obviously wasn't for me! I couldn't find any weld in O2 Sensor bungs locally (and Summit or Jegs wants the price of the parts in handling fees ). So I went to the local parts store and bought a pair of 18mm spark plug anti-foul extensions. I cut off the male thread and welded them in. Works like a dream for less than half the cost of the actual bungs!! Tim
  18. I don't think that any power gains/losses will be significant enough to effect your decision. The one issue with the S&S headers is ground clearance, esp. on the pass. side. I also found with mine that the collector placing made the use of these headers impossible (using T56). I ended up cutting them up and converting them to Tri Ys. Now I have much better ground clearance, and better flowing headers (I am assuming). See Here Tim
  19. Tim240z

    chat room?

    TomoHawk, It used to be every Tuesday and Thursday night at 6pm (Pacific Time). That kinda fizzled out. Now it is whenever folks are around. Usually I'll post a forum message to tell folks I'm over there. Tim
  20. Miles, You may have a bit more of a problem. White smoke usually means coolant in the combustion chambers. Too rich fuel mixture will give you black smoke and oil will give you blue smoke. Tim
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