Tim240z

Well, lets just say that if I can do it, any moron can! 1) You don't really have to know anything about the sensors, just basics on why they are there, and where they go. 2)If your car didn't come with a CAT, don't put one on. It will be a fire hazard. I took off all the EGR and air pump stuff. 3)People get rid of the Optispark because they are expensive to replace. They have an undeserved reputation IMHO. I know of several LT1 cars, well in excess of 100k miles with no OS issues. 4) Don't buy the painless kit. It is way overpriced and with Factory Service manual in hand, you can do it yourself. I don't consider myself to be all that adept at wiring, and although it took me a while, I did it myself and have recently fired the engine. 5) I am using TunerCat software to edit the PCM, and FreeScan to read the trouble codes. Hope this helps. Timh

Sorry double posted...see below

Are all the MAF sensors for the LT1 engine identicle? For instance, will the Impala MAF interchange with the Corvette, or Z28 etc.... I would imagine that they would, but need to be certain. Tim

no it definitely has been gone for several weeks, that I know of! Tim

I have been able to replace the tensioner once it popped out without removing the front cover. I've done it more than once. It takes a lot of time and patience, with a couple of long screwdrivers (flat). It's difficult but definietly not impossible. Tim

$2000 Jump on that thing...NOW!!!! Tim

Cody, I had the tensioner and spring out completely , which took a bit of work with a pair of needle nose pliars and wire to get back into the slot. Once there I used a very long screwdriver to hold it in place while I pulled the chain against it. Then used a second screw diver to hold the chain and tensioner in place. This may sound simple, but trust me, it probably would have taken less time to pull the timing cover. Tim

Miles, I have a 4WD audi 1/10 scale kit. Very fast and fun. Used to race it back in the days, before wife and kid! It's belt driven with bearings all 'round. Very quiet and handles like a slot car! Have a little front wheel drive mini cooper too. Haven't touched them in more than a year! Tim

SoM, Get the 400ci. As long as it hasn't been machined too far already, that's a steal. You might be able to get away with rings and bearings to 'freshen' it up. Get a cam, aluminum intake and a carb, and you're set. Down the road you can swap out the heads with aluminum ones too. The 400 block is the same physical size as the 350ci block. Tim

Bryan, Sorry you missed the BBQ, we had a great time talking smack. I've fired and run the engine. I am busy pulling everything back out (again) to do bodywork. Did you ever solve the dieseling issue with your car? That's some pretty nice HP numbers!!! Tim

This is the third seperate post on this car today...... Check out the for sale section

Me too!!!Hence I haven't touched my toys in ages. TZ.....very good point, to a point

TZ, yes there are several programs that can place a bid within a fraction of a second before the auction ends. Some people are wayyyyy to serious about their bidding!! Tim

Wow, I really like those rear flares with the ducts....very sexy!! Tim

No, but that's how it works.

Dude, the guy had a higher bid than that. He probably put in a bid of say $20, which would then automatically outbid you by the lowest increment (50c in this case..)

Try this.

Even though it's pricey....the T56 gives you the best of all worlds. Tim

Welcome SoM, Just FYI, the JTR kit only works with the Z series cars, not the ZX. MSA has the mounts for the ZX, but apparently they are very easy to fab yourself. (I have no experience with the ZX conversion though). As for engines, you may want to keep an eye on the local classifieds and see what's available. Although the price quoted you is not bad, sometimes you can find really stellar deals from private parties or e-bay. I believe the World Class T-5 trannies will hold up fine if you don't hammer on them too hard. I would definitely recommend an overdrive tranny (5 or 6 speed)!! Hopefully Dave Greimann will pipe up here, he is our resident ZX conversion expert and has a gorgeous early ZX SBC conversion!! Tim

It really sounds like you aren't really all that worried about fuel economy. Just build up a nice reliable SBC, with a holley double pumper, and tune it well. IMHO, a well tuned Holley will barely sip fuel in such a light car, as long as you have an OD tranny and don't get carried away with the grin factor of jumping on the loud pedal to open up the secondaries.....not a very easy thing to resist. If you don't want to go FI because of the complications, why are you even considering your original question here? If ease and simplicity is what you're after, go with something tried and true. Just my 2c worth........ Tim

OH boy.....here we go again If you haven't already, have a look at this post. It is mainly looking at 240Zs, but it may give you some insight as to what the current thinking is on this board. Tim

....nevermind

Cool!! Where is the Inlet Air Temp sensor? I don't see one in the pic? Thanks man! Tim

Miles, This what I have....take your pick: 1971 sbc, 4 bolt '10' block. 350 ci, virgin I believe, but wouldn't stake my life on it. Complete from oil pan to carb. I have a JTR manual. I have a TH400 tranny, but you will likely want OD. Might be interested in your '2.8' motor for my daily driver. Next time you're in the LA area, let me know. This week I'm in Big Bear for a conference. Be back on Friday. Tim

944LT1, Could you tell me where you got the inlet elbow(s)? I've been looking for something to get rid of the ugly factory acordian (sp) style, but the only thing I have been able to find is the aluminum one from Summit. Thanks, Tim BTW...thanks for all the help with the LT1 wiring over the phone. I struggled through it myself, and am glad I did now, and bought TunerCat to program it, which I really like, too.