Tim240z

Pete, I don't understand all the effort to put in solenoids, relays etc on the alternator output. Why not just run the alternator wire to the battery terminal of the main switch. That way when you turn the switch to off, all the current to the ignition is stopped and any excess current being discharged by the alternator is just going directly to the battery. Am I overlooking something critical here, 'cause that is how I have mine wired. Tim

K_C, If you right click on the link in Grumpy's post then choose properties, and manually cut and paste the URL into the browser's address window. Tim

Have a look at jegs.com. I seem to remember them seeling something like that, or if that fails, just get a set of header flanges from hooker (or hedman, I can't remember which) and use them as spacers (won't be 1/2 inch, but 3/8 inch may be enough). I feel your pain. My LT1 angle plug heads are creating the same issues. I've been through 3 sets of headers, thus my plans to make my own.The S&S headers have excellent clearance around the plugs....just not at the collector flange Tim

Just a word of caution. I have a set of those S&S headers and the collector points right into the slave cylinder boss on the T56. I think if you are running auto it will be ok. I am converting mine to Tri Ys this weekend. Tim

Dude...take it to a shop with a exhaust gas analyser and check it out once and for all!! Tim

Scottie, Does that include fully sealed batteries (optima type)? BTW..I'm not using that box 'cause it is bloody massive!! Tim

About 2/3 ofthe way down the page Tim

What is you schedule like on Friday? Maybe can meet up and I can have a look. I'm no expert, but sometimes a new set of eyes/ears can find something Drop me an email and let me know. Closest cross street to my workplace is Plummer/Tampa (actually Plummer/Oakdale) Tim

Bob, You will need a pump that provides about 50 psi max. Fi wants pressure not volume whereas a carb likes volume and low pressure. maybe your pump will work, check the specs. As for wiring, you will need to wire the PCM and provide it with power and sensor inputs. Also you will need the diagnostic port (plug) so that you can edit the computer and pull diagnostic codes. You can probably keep your gauges, just pull the sender units from the old engine. The PCM has an output for the tach, but you can likely use what you have. Check the location of your rear mount on the tranny, the T56 mount is same as the TH400, and the 200 4R. The output splines on the T56 are the same as all GM auto trannies (except the TH400), so if your tranny has the same splines as, say a TH350, then depending on the length of your driveshaft, it may work. Tim

Nutin' kinky

ZCD, The 96 is a LT1 and the motor will bolt up the same as the one you have. The T56 mounting compared to your tranny...I don't know. The electronics is what will give you the most work. You could get a painless wiring kit, or wire it yourself ($$$ vs. Time). You'll need a new fuel pump, and will need to edit the LT1 computer, and change your speedo to electronic or get the conversion kit for the T56 to go mechanical. That's all that I can think of off the top of my head...I'm sure some others will chime in soon. Tim

Dude, I work in Chatsworth (near the mall), where are you? Tim

The 2 gauge is actually wayyy bigger than the OEM Z28 stuff, so I'm not worried about that. The alt. is oem Z28 (LT1), which I think is about 65 amp or so. I am needing about 5 feet to the kill switch (battery side obviously), so I think I will just go ahead and get some 8 gauge. I am assuming that the cable is 2 gauge 'cause that is what the end terminals were stamped. I got the relocation kit (although I wont be using the box) from summit: The cable is pretty stout and has LOTS of strands so it's pretty flexible and seems to be very nice quality. Thanks for the responses. Tim

For the power wire that goes from the alt. to the battery (charging wire), is 10 gauge large enough? I figure that it is probably ok, and I have plenty of it, but I'm using 2 gauge battery cable and the 10 gauge wire just looks SO puny in comparison. Any recomendations? Thanks, Tim

TSW makes a setup for single center nut, or at least they used to. Very pricey though. Tim

You obviously haven't walked down the beach in Santa Monica/Malibu or Manhattan Beach!! Chicks, baby....like very few places on Earth!! Well, that and 365 days of beautiful weather. But I hear ya....dag-um Liberals!! Tim

Check all your vaccuum lines and fittings. MAybe one of the lines are split or cracked. The increase in temp. is likely a symptom of the lean mixture. Check all the bolts on the inlet manifold (manifold to head, carbs to manifold etc.) I am assuming that you used all new gaskets! If there are no vaccuum leaks, then richen up the mixtures in small increments until it's better. Tim

I have dealt with Ross several times too. I ship sets of SBC pistons oversees all the time (My Dad and several others use them exclusively on their race cars). Their customer service is excellent, their product line is brilliant----plus they are only 2 miles from my house. Tim

Output yolk is the same as the TH350. Actually, all GM auto transmissions use the same spline except for the TH400. You can likely use your universal shifter (cable type I assume) and just not be able to use 1st gear selection. If your flexplate has the dual pattern then it will work (it should have the dual pattern). The TC can be set to engage (lock up) as soon as the trans is in OD. (simple wiring bridge internally), or you can wire it to a switch. HTH. Tim

There is a crowd here in SoCal that makes a 4 valve per cylinder head. Sorry can't remember the name, but the pair of heads go for about $5,000.00 Tim

OK, so maybe I'm a Lame-O, but I think it's pretty cool. Probably wouldn't be caught driving it, but that someone went through the exercise to build it is worth some applause. It's easy to knock someone elses project, but it obviously took alot of work and turned out fairly realistic.... Oh well, that's just me I guess. Tim

TM240Z....I think that our logon names are going to cause some identity confusion. If you don't think so, then don't hassle, but you may want to make it a bit more unique Otherwise don't worry...I don't care. Tim Tim240Z

Interesting ebay item here! Tim

Just to add something to the equation: My Dad used those things (3 inch I think) on his brake ducts on the racing car (600hp road racing V8) and said that they did help cool the brakes through the slow twisties (exactly where you would need extra air flow over the calipers/rotors). Tim

Hmmm, Matt, I've never tried it that way...I've always put my 'toes' on the brake pedal and used my heel on the accelerator....maybe your way is easier...I'll have to try it (when the V8 Z is done, the L24 will just poop in it's pants if I try it) Tim