Tim240z

Having a problem with my stock 73 POS daily driver's brakes: Somewhere, somehow, air is entering the rear braking fuid system. If I bleed the rears, the pedal stays firm for about 100 miles or so of regular driving. After that I have to start pumping them up to get good pressure until I bleed them again. I have a new (reman) master cylinder which is about 1 year old (5000 miles). The brakes bleed well, so I am thinking the master cyl. is not the culprit. The flexible lines are old and should probably be replaced, but are not wet at all. I have checked all the flanges for moisture (brake fluid) but they are all dry. The brake warning light glows dimly in the speedo (always has) but glows brightly when the brakes are in need of bleeding. Any suggestions...should I change out the proportioning valve ( I have one from the V8 project Z that I won't be using)...could that be the problem? Thanks, Tim

Mig will work fine as the guys above have said, but you could always expand one end and slide it over the other section and use a clamp, which makes it easier when/if you need to take the system off the car. I have always used oxy/acet. welding for exhausts, only because the weld is generally neater and I am more confident in the penetration of the weld because I can see the metal melting. Just my 2c worth.... Tim

Well....you could always give up the Big Macs and drop some poundage there!! J/K, Tim

Does it run ok? I'll take it. Email me with details. Tim

Originally posted by John Coffey: quote John, are the Penske's out of reach of us mere mortals? Do they have the remote reservoir? Are they really 'that' much of an upgrade for street use with soft (250lb/in range) springs? I thought that the adjustable Tokikos allowed compression and damp adjust? If not, I'm just going to order a set of Billies (Bilsteins that is) from a contact overseas. I was planning on running the Tokikos, but if the improvement is vast, I'll drop the $$ for the Billies. Tim

Jim, That looks really great!!! I think I will incorporate that into my new R230 mount!!! Thanks for the post!! Tim

This was a site posted by GrumpyVette recently about a Caddy drivetrain in a bug: web page Tim

I have always been told that spacing the wheel outwards, either by extreme offsets or large spacers, puts a lot more stress on the wheel bearings, severely shortening their life and function. This would logically make sense, since the leverage effect of putting the wheel further out would effect bearing loads. I guess by using a wheel with a flush face and large 'inside' offset, this should not be an issue. I am open to being corrected!! Tim

I just used 18 gauge sheetmetal, cut to size. Much cheaper that way, and used 1x3x0.085 rectangular tubing for the subframe connectors. Tim

Jeez, that intercooler is HUGE!!, nice exhaust setup!! Because the pics didn't load, here's the link: web page Tim

If the folks are dropping for an engine, why not go V8 crate?, or GN turbo if it has to be V6!!! Tim

The saying: "There's no replacement for displacement" was coined for a good reason...I agree with Grumpy here....cubes are king!! Tim

James, I have an extra switch (will need it back eventually), but you are welcome to use it to trouble shoot your problems...change it out to see if it still gets hot. At least you could then rule out the switch. Tim

quote: I'm smoothing out all my stuff on the body and filling holes everywhere, including the doors, so I can re-mount them wherever they best fit! I'll probably get them... Mike Ditto Mike. I really like the bottom oval smallish one! Tim

Azel: Excellent summary...Thanks!! Tim

Dave, I don't remember exactly, but the JTR manual makes reference to this using a GM switch. If you need me to look it up I can do tonight, or maybe someone has the book handy?! Tim

Kris, I can only speak to mine: 94 Q45, 3.56:1 Tim

Nope, nice and dry...but cool. I live right on the coast, so it's always pretty moist...the weather that is. BTW, you can always edit your original post as opposed to creating a new one. Tim

Good stuff Mike. What are you going to replace your hatch with? Tim

Kris, I picked mine up for $280 with shafts, but wont be using the shafts...rather go with the new ones which are not much more expensive than having the old ones shortened. There is a place up here (where I got mine) in LA that has plnety of them out of Q45s. $450 seems a little pricey. Tim

The adapters are 2 piece (2 inches total) and can be gotten in any pcd desired. Ross..I don't think that they are Z specific, however, I am sure that they can machine them a little to customer specs. Dan Juday.. I don't know anything about the guy except for the short conversation I had with him at the swap meet. He had a HUGE assortment of adapters, spacers, lug nuts, valves...etc. The finish on the spacers 'looked' very nice, and when I asked him what material they were made from, he couldn't be specific, except to say " the same as aluminum rims" If you want me to call and get details (free call), let me know. Tim

Jeromio, Hammerite has good chemical resistance. I buy it by the gallon at Home Depot. Here is the web page. Tim

Just FYI: Here is some info on body mods and the CA Vehicle code. Looks like marker lamps are not required: marker lamps section Tail lights section Parking brake requirements Windows and mirrors requirements Exhaust systems Noise limits Bumper requirements Arrest quotas Procedures on equipment violations Some of this stuff has really put a crimp in my plans. I have a buddy on the local Police force and am going to ask him how much these things are really enforced. Oh well...damn laws!! Tim

This guy has them on the shelf. I spoke to him at the Pomona swap meet a few weeks ago: Lug Nut King Gonzalez Enterprises Mira Loma, CA 909-376-8018 Tim

For mine I just picked up the front end..attached it to the rotis., then did the same for the rear. With nothing in the car, it is very light. Tim