Tim240z

Can one of you inliner Gurus give some help on all the head numbers (codes) used on Datsun heads from the 240s to the 280s, and their interchangability (combustion chamber size/comp. ratio). I'm sure that there must be a list like this on a site somewhere, but I can't find one. I see mention all the time about certain heads being better than others...is this 'cause of flow numbers, or comp. ratios. Reason?: I want to increase the displacement of my 240Z to 2.8 (by getting a 280 JY motor), and have two 240cc engines (1 in the car, and one in the garage), so would these heads work better than the 280 heads? Thanks, Tim

My Dad has been running a dry sump set up on his Racing Car (sbc), now a Camaro, but other body styles too, for years. It looks REALLY cool, having a gilmer style belt turning a 6 chamber pump, and I REALLY wanted to run one, but he recommended against it on the street for reliability reasons and he said it's a lot of effort for some trick LOOKS!!

There's one on e-bay : web page Tim

I've had good luck just using a gutted thermostat to slow down the water flow. Just get an old one and cut it with some wire cutters so that the internals are gone. That should solve your problem until you can sort it out properly. Tim

Unless you already have one or can find one from a private party, this question may be moot because MSA no longer sells this part number. Their supplier no longer produces it. TIm

I am yet to use them, but I've HEARD that the new one piece silicon gaskets work very well, and they have crush proof inserts in the bolt holes. Maybe someone who has used them will chime in...Grumpy??!! Tim

I had to repair my stock fuel tank. It split on the seam where the breather pipe on the driver's side attaches to the tank. I tried several products, including JB weld. None of the 2 part epoxies worked well at all. I ended up using a one part glue that I bought from Home Depot, which was labeled to be used specifically for gas tanks and 'jerry cans'. It comes out clear, almost like plastic model cement that I used when I was a kid to put airplanes together. I was VERY skeptical, because the way it went on was very runny and 'clear'! But this stuff dries in about 20 minutes (quicker if you use a hair dryer) and is hard as a rock and I haven't had a moments problem since! Tim

Bang, Like I said, I have a sync tool and a colortune that I used when I was running SUs (webers now). Stop by if you want help tuning them. Tim

Kenny,What you see in these pics are just the tip of the iceberg. I have matching gauges as follows: fuel, volt, trans. temp, Brad, the same pics are on my site if you still wanna see em. Tim

Ditto on that one.My '73 240 POS daily driver got SPANKED yesterday by a riced out Civic (fart pipe and all). When the V8 hybrid is finished, this POS is getting a TURBO 2.8 for sure, so any documentation would be much appreciated. Tim

..........Now the 'fun' begins Good luck with the project. For all the work I've done, it just doesn't seem like I'm that much further than you, but I guess the little things just take a lot longer than you think. Are you going to do cage and sub frame connectors? Might as well since you have it stripped down so much. Do yourself a favor and build a little rotisserie to do your frame rails and all teh stuff under the car.....much easier. I made mine in a couple of hours and 20 bucks worth of 'off-cuts' from the steel shop. Have fun!! Tim

Scotty, Sorry I can't provide any help on the EFi subject, but is the Carb completely enclosed in an airbox, or are you just blowing the boost into the Carb inlet? If it's the latter, maybe consider building an airbox that encloses the whole carb. This way the only thing you should have to worry about is the floats collapsing, but I'm sure you could track down a set of solid floats. I also assume that you already have a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator?, otherwise the pressure around the carb (boost) will push the fuel back to the tank. If you don't have happiness with the EFi setup, this should be an appropriate course of action. Tim

Looks like my idea has been 'wet blanketed' by the State of CA again: 5201. License plates shall at all times be securely fastened to the vehicle for which they are issued so as to prevent the plates from swinging and shall be mounted in a position to be clearly visible, and shall be maintained in a condition so as to be clearly legible. The rear license plate shall be mounted not less than 12 inches nor more than 60 inches from the ground, and the front license plate shall be mounted not more than 60 inches from the ground. Tim

Here's a couple of pics of the test fit of the gauges. I have not installed the full dash cap yet so NO RUDE Comments please! Tim

I have been messing around with my dash and bevvy of new Autometer gauges...thinking about the age old question: how to install them?! I have been reading many posts on this subject and it seems the overwhelming consensus is using silicon. Not to detract from U guys that went this route, but I didn't like the idea much, 'cause knowing me, I'll want to take them out again for one reason or another. To make a long story shorter here is what I did, with great success by the looks of things: 5" tach and speedo and 2 5/8 others. Used some weather stripping that I had laying around (7/8" wide x 9/16" thick-self adhesive) and stuck it around the gauge, just behind the bezel (face). Then I cut the weather stripping as close to the base (sticky side) as possible and folded open towards the back of the gauge. Then slipped the gauge into the dash. It goes in very tight, so I very much doubt it will vibrate loose and the black color of the stripping blends in to the dash so the gap that the stripping is filling is not noticible at all! Nice thing is...you can push the gauge back out and change the rotation or have it as far inset or sticking out as U want (within reason of course).....just food for thought... Tim

Dave, Buy the conversion manual from JTR (JagsThatRun.Com). That will give you 90% of the details needed. Tim

JW, I doubt whether you are going to get much response in this section. You may want to consider reposting this in the Technical section, maybe in the Misc. Tech. or Brakes, wheels... sections. Tim

After some thought about the licence plate placement, I am thinking about putting down low to cover the outlets of the fuel cell. I haven't been able to find any citations in the CA Vehicle Code as to the placement of the licence plate (at least height from ground/bottom of the car). Anyone have any info/advice on this one? Thanks, Tim

Bill, I reponded in the other post too, but the setup should work temporarily without the balast resistor. Long term it will burn out your points, but at least you'll know if it works before you put on the resistor. Tim

I sounds like the wiring to the starter is causing the problems. Make sure that the 2 circuts aren't on the same wiring. You could try using a second battery to power the starter to see if that solves the problem. If it does then you'll know where to start looking. I'm sure there is some specific problem, but since no one has responded so far...try this. I think the starter is pulling voltage away from the coil. Tim

Ron, The latest Summit catalogue I have has some new product that claims to be a scratch proof lexan. Pricey, but might be worth it for your application. If you can find it on their web site I'll dig up my catelogue and post the details. Tim

J, Since you will have to smog the car, I think the Camaro donor idea w/ FI is the best way. Tim

David, Did you give up on the other one, or are you buying both? This one looks very nice. Tim

These are the only ones I've found to be of any help: http://www.webercarburetors.com/watppw.htm http://www.redlineweber.com/ Tim

Davy, My first thought was some gritty hand cleaner, like gojo or something. Since you lights are nice and new, it might be worth picking up a old one from a J/Y and getting overspray on it (I'm sure that most body shops would happily oblige you) and trying various products to remove it. Acetone might be a good one too, since it is unreactive and comes in plastic bottles anyway?! Good luck... Tim