Tim240z

Great find and great price. Always nice to have more bowtie Hybrids running around. Good luck, Jon. Tim

Ron, Great idea. I was thinking of something similar, but for the opposite effect: I was going to use 2 or 3 windshield washer spray nozzles in each wheel well to spray water on the tires so that I could very easily smoke 'em for fun on the street. One day when some idiot in a brand new Caddy SUV cut me off in traffic, I began contemplating mounting a nozzle in the front of the car (on the bumper) and putting brake fluid in the bottle and spraying it on people that piss me off, but I got over that pretty quickly...I'm not THAT mean and vindictive! Tim

Ron, I also tried to remove the windshield and save the rubber...even with all the care in the world, I ended up breaking the glass...so now a NEW windshield is in my future...cheaper and easier to replace the rubber! Tim

Mike, I agree with both statements above. Piece of mind is priceless! Nothing worse than having that nagging voice in the back of your head, wondering if your motor is about to let go! My rule of thumb (for what it's worth) is that it only hurts (your wallet) once to buy good stuff. I use this thought process whenever I am considering a tool purchase especially! Just my 2c worth! Tim

Well after messing around with the rear assemblies for some time now, I finally narrowed it down to the master cylinder. It got to the point where I had ZERO rear brakes, which was somewhat disconcerting!! to say the least. When I couldn't get the rears to bleed anymore, I had to resign myself to the fact that the remanufactured master that I bought 13 months ago (1 year warranty!!)was toast. Anyway I went to the local parts place and dropped $85 for a brand new one and it is SOOOO nice to have a firm pedal again. I am going to have to relearn how to drive the car...no more pumping before every stop! Just though y'al might want an update (probably not, but here it is anyway! ) Tim

Have a look at port city racing .I think they have pics and measurements. Tim

I'll chime in here just to reiterate what's already been mentioned by the above esteemed members: It is a HELLAVA lot easier to maintain disk brakes. Changing shoes are a PITA!, compared to pads, although shoes will generally last a bit longer. Also, you won't have to worry about the adjustment mechanism not working properly etc...worth the initial effort to change to disks IMO. My setup cost me less than 50 bucks and some labor at the JY, and although I won't be sure the calipers are 100% functional for some time....even if I have to replace them, I still feel I'm ahead. I'm currently having major issues with the rear brakes on my daily driver, so this topic is 'near and dear' to me right now. I'm driving around with only the front brakes operating! Tim

from what I can see, it is well worth the asking price...jump on it man!! Tim

No Pictures there dude? Tim

check out this discussion from a couple of months back: How much have you spent.... Tim

Actually it is overseen by CARB and the regs are in the California vehicle code. I will post the link tomorrow. Tim

Lance, I am also running that setup on my daily driver. Firstly, check (with the car off) that the carbs are squirting the same amount. Do this by manually pushing on the linkage (as close to the firewall as possible to simulate accelerator movement). Also make sure that the butterflies are opening the same amount. If the above are good, richen up the idle mixture a bit and see if it is any better. Tim

No Way Man....F@#%! em all. THE MAN will never catch me! Me and the Z will go out in a blaze of glory. I bet I make CNN!!Hmmmm...I'm gonna need nitrous, ground to air missiles, grenades, gas mask, run flat tyres, and a fully automatic rifle! J/K (in case any of you guys thought I was seriously disturbed). Tim

I haven't yet decided on the licence plate issue. One thing may determine my course of action:The latch hook for the hatch is now completely enclosed, with no method of adjusting up or down to adjust the closed lines of the hatch. I am hoping that where I mounted it is spot on. If not I will need to drill two holes in the new panel near the top to get to the two bolts to loosen and then tighten them. If I do have to drill these holes, then I will use the licence plate to cover them (will use two rubber grommets first). Either way, for the licence plate lights I plan to use the little bolt/light combos that Summit and other places have. I've seen them on hot rods and they look clean and neat. Tim

On the smog check issue, we seem to be concentrating on the products of combustion emissions and their associated controls, however, for those of us (me included), who have modified our fuel storage systems (I have installed a fuel cell), these get checked also for fugitive VOC emissions. I know mine won't pass, even though I plan to install an activated carbon canister to the vent tube to control vapors. The fill hole on the cell will not allow the phase II vapor recovery system on the gas station pumps to capture 95% of the fugitive emissions as mandated by CARB! I guess I am just going to drive it and cross my fingers! Tim

Indefinitely! Tim

What do you plan to do with it? Restore or Hybridize? That's a good price for sure...does it drive under it's own steam? TIm

OK folks, just got off the phone with C.A.R.B. and here is the bad news. The rules that apply to 74 and newer vehicles also apply to older ones. - Engines changes must be kind for kind, so a passenger car engine must be replaced by a passenger car engine, light truck for light truck etc. - The engine must be California certified. - The engine must be from the same year or newer as the one it is replacing, nad must retain any and all originally supplied smog equipment. - I asked whether the only way this would get caught was if the driver was stopped at a remote sensing station, and the answer was NO! Apparently, when the vehicle is registered, you are to inform the DMV of the engine change and they will tell you to go to an inspection station, where all this will be checked out. Following that the vehicle is subject to regular smog checks. I asked her if ANY exemptions from this exists...SHE said no! I find this hard to swallow, and I feel that the CARB rep. was in error. I cannot find any citations in the California Code of Regulations (CA Vehicle Code specifically) to back up her assertions. I am going to continue my search until I find an exemption somewhere. I will keep you all posted. Tim

Man, I hope that you are getting this for a GOOD price! What you would have to do is find a donor car at a JY and cut out that section, then cut out the section on this car and weld it in. I am definitely not an authority on body work...maybe some of the resident experts will chime in with some advice. It is definitely do-able. Make sure that you check that car for structural rust...that may be a more important aspect in your decision to purchase this thing. Tim

I dig the rims! The engine looks like a stock Tonawanda factory unit (454) at least the valve covers do. Tim

Scottie...Just working from an idea in my head...we'll both have to wait to see the finished product. Racer...I am going to put some lexan on the inside of the new panel sealing the panel. If some crap does get in there, I can just pull out the lights and blow it out with compressed air. Lone...That is exactly the car that inspired me. I ran the gammut of ideas..Vette, etc, but kept coming back to this one. I was thinking about bringing the exhaust tip out through this rear panel, but I like the smoothness without a cutout, so I may just point it down, level with the bottom of the new panel (exhaust unseen). Tim

Davy, I am actually using the stock tail lights. I wish you wouldn't have mentioned LEDs! "while I'm at it I might as well.." install the LED conversion too! Shyte! Thanks Man! Tim

Nice to have another Hybrid in the works! If I had only one piece of advice to give it would be: Be careful of the "while I'm at it..I might as well..." syndrome Have a good plan of attack before you get underway. There's obviously many things that should be done while things are disassembled, rather than going back later, but be careful of 'scope creep'. I am busy making that 'mistake' daily. Just can't help myself....somebody please me!, or me, to get me back on track! Tim

Dave, The comments above are on the money. The change in pump cam is only necessary if the engine stumbles when the carb is opened full bore from idle or low cruise. If it is accelerating cleanly, then you are getting the correct 'squirt'. BTW...the ideal way to get a good plug read is to cruise at highway speed as usual then cut the engine before you start having to idle and 'stop start' driving. Obviously this is difficult unless you have a race track to use, but like I said "ideal". This way you get an accurate plug color from the main cxarb circuts and not the idle circut, which may be rich enough to give you a 'false read'. Also, while you're at it (don't you just love that phrase...always means lots more work), you may want to consider ducting some cool air to your air cleaner, I remember how much under hood heat your Z generates! Tim

I guess that makes me a proctologist! After much labor and colorful language, I'm almost done. Here is what I'm talking about. To this: Some more pics here. just click on Misc.pics. Wadda y'al think? Tim