Tim240z

Mike, These are the only ones that I am aware of: Port City Racing. A bit pricey though I have seen and used electric pumps before, but not sure where they are available from. Tim

R230 is 28 spine, if I remember correctly, but since the shafts have to be replined anyway?>>>> Tim

The only thing I would be worried about is dirt that settles to the bottom of the tank and gets into the lines. Make sure you have a filter before the pump. Tim

Hey james, Which ones did you order? Tim

James, It sounds to me like the one carb is flooding because the float bowl is getting too much juice. Pull off the top of the carb and blow it out with compressed air. While you have the tops off, take out all the jets (one at a time) and make sure they're clean.*esp. the pump jets. Tim

Check out the 'VR engineering....' post below.

I am also planning to use a mechanical for the oil pressure. Mechanical gauges are more accurate and more reliable. They either work, or they don't, so at least you know. The other gauges are going to be electric since the wires are easier/neater to route, and in my opinion oil pressure is the most important of all...just my 2c worth. Tim

Read through the post below (framerail rust).

If you want something a little more durable and rust preventing, Hammerite has a 'hammer finish' paint in both aerosol and brush on applications. I'm not quite sure if this is the same effect that you are seeking. Tim

Try hammering on a socket, if you can get one on, or vice grips. If that doesn't work... Tim

I cut out the old floorboards and the old rails (which end just behind the driver's seat). Then I welded in the floors. Then the new frame rails were welded to the floors,rear subframe and front subframe. ALOT of welding. Hope that answers your question. Tim

Just put a jack or stand under the diff, or let it hang from the mustache bar. I have managed to pull the shaft w/Xmember in place, but if the bolts are too tight, then.... Tim

Holleys like volume not pressure. For what it costs for a basic electric fuel pump for a carb, why bother with the headaches? Tim

Most cars will twist when jacked on one side. If it stays that way after you let it down, then start worrying. Tim

Wagz, You are correct. However the caveat is: My car was COMPLETELY stripped (well...the rear view mirror was still in ), and I did one side at a time, and I supported the middle of the car (it was on it's side) with the jack until the first one was done. I believe that with the car completely stripped, it is light enough ( I could pick up (bench press style) the car by myself) to not have to worry about twisting. Tim

Fast Frog, My Dad uses a solid roller in his Racing Camaro. He checks the lash before every heat. Last time I spoke to him, he hadn't needed to adjust at all this year. Tim

FWIW, I have yet to find a spray on exhaust paint that lasts more than 5 or 6 heating/cooling cycles. I have a tin of paint that we use on our big 6000hp compressor engines' turbo housings that don't need to be cured. It is brush on stuff, but I haven't tried it yet on my headers. According to the label, it can withstand up to 1600 degrees, and you can only apply a second coat after a few days after the first coat was applied, so I infer from this that it does some serious curing in the mean time. When I get home I will get the product details if you are interested. Tim

Remember, galvanized metal contails lead, which volatalizes when heated (aka welded). Lead accumulates in the fatty tissues of the body and can never be flushed by the body. Causes all kinds of reproductive and nervous system problems with prolonged exposure....hence ....unleaded gasoline. Good idea whenever working with chemicals...thinners, paints, bondo, welding, to be upwind of the vapors. There is probably stuff that we breath that will be found to be carcinogenic 5 years from now!!!!!, or make valuable parts of your anatomy fall off or sumsuch!! Tim

V8Dats, I used a gasless wire feed welder. I used 16 gauge sheetmetal for the floorboards. Click on the homepage icon to see my pics. Tim

Yeah, Blk, the lead and zinc in the galvanizing is definitely not too good for the human body!, but I've done it before, just use a fresh air supply, I jimmi rigged something with my compressor. If anyone is interested, I can post the specs on the product and the guys name and phone number who distributes it here in CA (Riverside...30miles east of LA). So if U like I will........ Tim

Just bought some aluminum welding rods at the Pomoma Swap meet today. It uses a regular propane torch and welds really nice, even brass to ally, and galvanized to ally. The joint is really strong. I was a bit skeptical about the whole thing so I asked the guy if I could try, so I went around to his bunch of al. and proceded to fill a dime sized hole in a piece of 4" pipe (al). Worked so well , that I bought a crap load of it. Tim

BLK, PLEEEEEEEEZE, post a message here and give details on the change (sound and hp). Thanks, Tim

Anyone used these before? Looking for something to put on the dual 2.5 inch pipes before going to the 3inch section. Details here You'll have to find 'Moroso Spiral mufflers' from the drop down menu. Tim

Just surfing around and found this radiator: Fairly inexpensive and still has the good looks of an all out racing one. $179. web page Tim

Lone, I bought the one wire magnum alt. from Summit for my truck (sorry, not Z specific), and ran a wire directly from it to the batt. +ve. Then the batt. +ve goes to the Starter with the primary (thick) wire. All of the systems then pull their source from the terminal at the starter. Hope this helps some Tim