Tim240z

I bet you wish your 'pecker' could swell up like that!! ....or at least I bet your girlfriend/boyfriend/partner (whatever) wishes it would ha ha ha JK....great excuse to chill for a few days!

I bought a 7hp (rated, 5hp run) 60gal unit from Lowes (made by Campbell Hausfield, I believe). It is a verticle, 220V unit and is a huge upgrade from my old oilless, 5 hp (rated) 20 gallon unit!! It is belt driven, oil bath type and is also MUCH, MUCH quieter than the old one. IT has performed wonderfully so far. I have NEVER had to wait for it to 'catch up' while working with air hungry tools like DA sanders etc. I did all the body and paint on my truck a few weeks ago and had no issues. Although the 2 stage units are really nice, the price does not warrant it for the home user. If it were for a shop that used the air all day every day, different story. This is the one I bought: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=3692-48540-K7060V&lpage=none

"I love it when a plan comes together"

Not a good start for a newbie....consider yourself on the watch list. We have banned folks for less. Take a step back and read the 'stickies' at the top of the forums, esp. the rules and regs. Use the search feature before posting ANY questions.

measurements, brand choices etc have been posted many times......try a quick search and I'm sure you will find what you are looking for...

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/car/81292366.html

Ouch!!! So what's the story behind it?

Nope:

The exemption is static at 1975 and older....either keep it regeistered out of state, or bend over and bring KY

Lest this thread get hijacked, and become yet another welder thread.... I built my entire Z with a flux core 220V Harbor freight welder. It worked fine, and always would proclaim that the gas shielding was a nicety that was unnecessary....however, now that I have a Miller with shielding gas I would never go back to flux core....it is night and day difference. I will only use my HF welder for very thick material where cosmetics are not much of an issue... my 2c worth..... Sorry for the tangent, Jon....

Jon, I have done 4 of these repairs. It is fairly easy. I am assuming that you have a new dogleg panel in hand? Drill out the spot weld along the bottom and seams by the door jam and rocker seam. (use the new parts overlaid on the car to mark out where to cut the old piece out at the top -horizontal cut in the 1/4 panel)....so spot welds are drilled out along the bottom (pinch seam), along the rocker panel seam, along the wheel well pinch seam, and cut (I used a cutting disk) along the horizontal line from the wheel well to the door jam (this is the line that is drwn with a sharpie using the new part overlaid)....cut below the sharpie line, not above---it is easier to trim a bit more off when fitting the new part, than if you have cut too much off. Now us the old piece that has now been cut off the car to transfer the spot weld hole locations to the new part. Drill holes in the new part in these locations. Fit the new part to the car (trim the cut line if necessary to create a nice snug butt fit). Spot weld at the drilled holes, and stitch weld along the horizontal cut. Use some kitty hair filler at the horizontal weld (grind the welds smooth), sand down, then skim with plastic filler, prime and paint. You can get both sides done in one afternoon..... Kinda hard to explain by typing....let me know if this makes sense..... Tim

Hmmm....I still have stock steering rack, stock glass.......I think that's about it

aaahhh...no.

Remember its a unibody....for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.....look elsewhere on the body/frame for damage....these cars are soft as butter....

Check for vacuum leaks too......

Well Done Ol' Chap!!

Before you go any further read this!! Please don't post the same post in multiple forums. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=58&announcementid=2 All other posts deleted.

Do you guys know what the lip to lip measurement on those flares are? I would hate to build the car then have to demolish my kitchen to get the car down the driveway!!

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&Ntt=flare+tool&N=%2D57317&part=SUM%2D900310&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

Easiest way is to start a new thread "group buy on wide body stuff - in here", or something to that effect....mass mailing to the whole board to reach a small audience would be shooting a mosquito with a cannonball..... I would also put some bold text in the post stating that replies to the thread should be by serious parties only, otherwise it will end up being another conversation about which kits do what and where to get them kinda BS.....seen it happen too many times... Tim

Greg, are you really only 19 years old?

Sorry Jon and Greg....I stand corrected. 1975 and older are exempt. Greg, if the Z is solid and rust free, then, if you want to do it right, then just replace the engine/tranny with a newer FI unit. You will want to swap that TH350 for an overdrive unit anyways. You can sell the current Engine/Tranny combo to the Hot Rod guys and put it towards another unit. Finding a Z in good condition is tough......

Also...unless the car originally came with cats, you do not need to install them, unless you install a much newer engine (96+ OBDII). Last time I spoke with a referee tech, he said if the computer needs the post cat O2 sensor signal to operate without throwing a code, then Cats are required.