Tim240z

You do not have to smog test the car due to the year and the testing exemption. To be 100% legal, you are doing the right think, but not necessary if you want to take the risk. Is DMV requiring you to have the car inspected? If they are requiring the inspection, and you have some extra cash, you could either swap in a factory FI motor (F-body, vette etc etc), or buy an aftermarket fuel injection system (holley, accel, edelbrock etc) and bolt it to the engine you have in there already. Just make sure that any aftermarket system you buy had a CARB (CA Air Resources Board) registration number stating that it is legal in CA.... To be legal, you will also need EGR, air pump etc..... Although there are thousands of pre-1976 cars running around without appropriate emissions equipment, it is still a state and federal offense to tamper/remove the equipment, or run a car without the required equipment. If you choose to go that route, you do so at your own risk. (legal disclaimer complete)Tim

The 'Powder Coating Guy' has the molds and I have been emailing him on and off over the last few months to check on progress. This is the last email that I received from him: Here is the details on the company that bought the molds from Arizona Z Car: Powder & Performance Coatings 24 Industry Drive Unit B, Bedford, Ohio 44146 Phone(440) 735-2628 Fax (440) 735-1970 And here is his email: P and P Coatings Hope that helps....maybe if he gets enough interest/inquiries, he will speed up his plans..... Tim

Please don't multi-post on the same topic in different forums. Post in V8 forum deleted.

Come on dude....cowboy up! Tidy up the garage and get busy. There is a lot of stuff you can do that doesn't cost much at all. You don't need to upgrade the suspension, brakes, chassis and rear end right away.....you can drive the car with the V8 for while, just do't go nuts with it...... You can save a few bucks every week and slowly upgrade the other stuff. 5 years from now, you can have a cool car, or sell it now and start from scratch in 5 years and regret it.....Maybe you are just biting off more than you can chew and need an excuse to bail? (not being mean, just realistic....we've all been there). If that's the case, then just scale back your goals a bit....nothing wrong with that. Break the project into smaller, bite sized chunks..... ...........or just sell everything and be a 'normal human being' just my 2c worth (not sure it is worth full market value )

Now PETA is bitchin about the Aquarium of the Pacific serving fish and chips.....

You will need to install the lightest (weakest) possible spring in the secondary diaphram. In such a light car, there is not enough vacuum to overcome the spring tension. http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/Trblsht.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/f4010.html

I am with Jon and vote for the Master cylinder rod. It is not letting all the fluid back into the master and leaving a bit of pressure at the calipers. Easy test is to open the bleeder valves on the calipers when they lock up and release the pressure. IF that frees up the brakes, then check the adj. on the rod....

There are much higher priorities in the site maintenance arena......this just will likely never be high up on the list.....

The OBDI version (94 F-body LT1 that I bought) was <$100, plus another $90 for the cable from Andrew at AKM cables. The new OBDII version came with CD software, instruction manual, and cable to hook to the OBDII diagnostic port, all for ~$360.00 and some change. Plus, TC takes paypal, so the transaction is super easy and the support has always been great.....they actually reply to emails.....novel idea, huh?

Water out of the tail pipe is normal. It is the condensation of the hot water vapor in the exaust gases, liquifying on the cold exhaust pipe walls. Unless it is smoking white smoke, you should be fine.....Check leakdown and compression. Is it overheating?

Pud knocking troll....later dude.....

Did you bleed the rears? If not start with the right rear and bleed that one, then go the left rear, right front, and left front. I assume that you meant to say that the car jerks to side, not the pedal? Sounds like you either still ahve air in the lines, or you maybe have some fluid contamination on one or more of the pads, or wheel bearings or ball joint are going south.... Re-bleed all four corners and check again...

It's early yet.....

No problem, we had plenty....Dave (Hanomon) brought a whole bunch.....

Please search around a bit....welders have been discussed to death....

It's always beautiful in So Cal!!

:lmao: Amen Bruttha

nice truck!

Oh crap...that probably means I'll be booted next...

All the more reason to keep the morons and trolls off this site.....we have a reputation to uphold...

http://www.betamotorsports.com/

Hmmmm....John Coffey's shop is about 40 miles from you........ Glad it is up and running......

Very jealous here!!!!