Tim240z

page 3 is kicking my @$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I actually took out the fitting (removed the rollpin) and then cut off the flexible line and drilled and tapped the fitting for a flexible braided fitting (brake line). Bleeding is still a slight challenge, but not too bad...... Tim

Tilton 15/16th bore (iirc) with my LT1/T56.

And now, since your water pump leaked, you need another new opti......

Hmmm...no fax number, but a member on chevyfullsize.com emailed them to me. Thanks for the offer. Do you have the FSM? I may need to hit you up for some more info.... Tim

Yeah, when done, just tip the box into the media bucket. I keep the used media in a different container from the new stuff. Or you can tape a sheet of 6mil plastic to the bottom of the box, then just gather up the edges and you have your media in a little plastic bag.... Tim

Like I said....JY is the cheapest way....

Yes. BTW.... will ship the item on wednesday (with the apparel)

They don't wear out or corrode, buying new seems like a waste, esp. since these little items can find their way into the bottom of the tool box....

Moved to the site support forum... Hmm....I hadn't even noticed it, but you're right......there doesn't seem to be a chat room any more.... Dan....wth, man!

Be sure to read all the Stickies at the top of each forum.

One side is sufficient.

YEs, you do need breathers, or PCV system. The pressure in the crankcase needs to vent to prevent the pressure pushing on seals and gaskets. You should use a PCV valve and plumb it into your intake. If you just use a breather and your engine has any blowby passed the rings, it will push oily fumes all over your valve covers and engine. Tim

The bank can tell you if the cheque is kosher before you cash it. If your gut tells you the deal is bogus, listen.

Just get a gun and make the cabinet out of a large cardboard box (like for a TV) and a piece of plexiglass. That way when you are done, you can crush it up (save the plexi) and it won't take up any room. Room for me is an absolute premium. Tim

Hmmmm....maybe we should move this topic to the "Group Buy" forum!!

HEY TZ!!! (oops, I mean 'Here Comes Trouble'). Good to have you back. Maybe we can set your post count back to where it was when you left? BTW, I have your parts, or I can send you the $$ back if you need that more.... Tim

Water + LT1 = $350 optispark

Mark, Opti is the usual culprit, but don't be too quick to blame it. They get blamed unnecessarily a lot of the time. Check the coil module too. They are also a bit of a design flaw as they are not isolated from the heat of the head. Coil could also be bad. Double and triple check all the wires, esp. the grounds. The LT1 is notorious for running crappy if it isn't grounded well. HTH schitso.... Tim

S2000 start button in my dash

Use the search function please....this has been beaten to death....

I am going to put in a 5.7/4L60E Vortec from a 99 Suburban (63k miles on it) into my 71. Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the PCM? I have converted a 94 F-body LT1-T56 harness, so I should be able to manage this one too, but will need to find out what all the wires go to...... Can anyone help with that? Also, are there any editting tools for this PCM? I used TunerCat for the LT1, but this PCM doesn't appear to be supported by Tunercat, or LS1 Edit. Any Ideas? I think I will need to over-ride the VATS system to bypass the in-key chip recognition? Any help would be highly appreciated..... Thanks, Tim

You mean like this: Cyrus, Got your back...moved the post...