Tim240z

^^^^^^^ Yeah, what he said Just open the master cylinder reservoir and see if it has fluid....if not, replace master and slave.

Summit has them. Search for "Autometer Nexus"....they are ~$200 each

No no no...buy a cold solder gun, then you can tell us all how well they work

I did two methods. In places where I thought I may need to disconnect them in the future, I went to the JY and got some nice weatherproof plugs from newer vehicles and soldered and heat shrunk, or taped the plugs on. Where I just needed to permanently join, I soldered and heat shrunk, or taped. Tim

I don't remember the name of the place that I got the 3" rubber elbows from, but a google search, or some of the truck (big 18-wheelers) supply places have them. The only tough one to find is the 3" to 3.5" reducer at the MAF sensor. The intake elbow (oval one right at the throttle body), is this one, available from Summit et al: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?Ntt=intake+elbow&N=0&part=VOR%2D4GH112%2D050&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch The tubing is just mandrel 3" aluminized exhaust tubing with a big @ss K&N filter..... BTW: JTR also has the rubber intake elbows: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_AirClean_Ducting.html

The way I had mine set up, the surge tank ended up with some slight pressure (~2psi), which then obviously force fed the high pressure pump. In this case, you could mount the pump anywhere as it is no longer relying on gravity. Tim http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94570&highlight=surge+tank

Yeah, that's what I thought....having the oil pressure gauge go red at 8psi, or water temp at 240 degrees etc would be way cool....kinda like having the idiot light intergrated with the gauges.....

Two words: Vee eight Sorry...couldn't resist.....

Maybe a little bling-blingy, but pretty cool nonetheless!! http://hp.autometer.com/products/nexus/index.html

Same as John, but with 10" coilovers and no fender rolling. Plenty of room.

Heat gun on the other side and a razor blade? After 30+ years, I doubt it will want to give up its grip, but worth a try...nothing really to lose.

Everyone's stuff has shipped.

Yeah, like I mentioned above, the TSWs just don't work with the car. Needs some nice old school rims.

There is no reason to run 91 octane....

This one deserves to stay in this post, so I copied the pictures to HZ, and here is the text:(I wouldn't have gone with the TSW Evolutions though)

Good God Almighty!!!! Yeah...now that is a Hybrid!!!!!

I found that the only way for me to get in and out of my car (not being of Gumby abilities) was to use a removeable hub......makes life much easier. I got the hub off E-bay and the quality is superb!!!

Welcome to hybrid Z!! Please try using the search function before posting. A quick search yielded this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320&highlight=engine+weights Plenty more too, but this was the most recent.

Wiring....PITA....c'mon now....all the work is done already Looks great!! Moving right along, huh.....should be running really soon!! Tim

This is the way I understand it (not saying it is correct, though): The PCM sends a 5Volt signal to the O2 sensor. The amount of oxygen passing over the sensor changes the resistance of the current and sends a voltage signal back to the PCM......so, if I was to just force that resistance with an inline resistor, wouldn't that fool the PCM into thinking that the Cats were there and operating correctly? Isn't that how the aftermarket O2 sensor simulators work?

For the 335/35s you'll want at least an 11" rim, 12" optimal. For the 265/40s, you'll want at least a 9" rim, with 9.5-10" being optimal. Tim