Tim240z

Good info...Thanks Dave

Ross Pistons is based in CA, why not just go directly to the source? They are in El Segundo, CA (< 3 miles from my house ), and do lots of custom and one-off orders.... http://www.rosspistons.com/ ROSS Racing Pistons 625 S. Douglas Ave. El Segundo, CA 90245 ORDER LINE 800-392-7677 TECH LINE 310-536-0100 FAX LINE 310-536-0333

I made my own...see pics on my www site

20oz are plenty. I used a piece of 3 inch diameter, by 8 inches long.....

Keep in mind the requirements listed in the starting post....cheap, easy and JY available....all good suggestions though....keep them coming

I believe that it's still sitting in Arnie's in-box.

Mike, Wierd, I can see it! But I uploaded to to Imagestation also (wasn't responding earlier, so I put it on Yahoo):

Yeah, I'm really leaning hard towards the Ford turbo engine..... My machinist builds the naturally aspirated engines for a race team in Michigan, and his head porting work is amazing...... Even at a tame 200hp, that little Opel will certainly give Da 'Goose a good run!! Tim

I am using the MSD inline pump. It's only about $80 and has enough flow and pressure for the LT1. I found it very noisy, but then after I installed the surge tank with a secondary low pressure feed pump, the MSD pump got very quiet....I can barely hear it now. I think that actually feeding the MSD pump with a bit of pressure at the inlet makes all the difference, it doesn't have to work very hard to 'pull' fuel. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD-2225&Ntt=msd fuel pump&Ntk=KeywordSearch&N=110&PartSearchFlag=

Way to keep up the team colors (Hybrid Z cars) Terry!!! Way to go!!

Fixed link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2489677526

Just take that tank to a radiator shop that does fuel tank jobs. They can clean and reseal for a good price. Or you could do it yourself: http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=382&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=fuel+tank

WOW Ernie...you are a walking Z car pictoral historian!! Love it...keep em coming!! I LOVE that G-Nose wide body!!! F'in good stuff!!!!!! Thanks for the tour!

Yup, the second one with the curved veins is the correct one. It should fit....

Davy....What the heck is "Initial D"?

6 Speed car with heavy clutch is getting a bit old in I-405 traffic.....it's an absolute pleasure to drive early mornings, and runs through the Topanga Canyon route.....it has Bilsteins all around and that LT1 pulls like a train, but gas mileage in stop and go trafic is lacking...open road its great though....but where are the open roads in So Cal anymore!!!

Wow...the Taurus fan doesn't fit? I just finished installing a Taurus fan in my Z today, and I was impressed with the 'thinness' of it..... It really does 'suck' though!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2489436651&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT The 40 Chev is up on Ebay now. Once I get one of the Opels going reliably, the 94 Z28 will go the same way..... Tim

Ahmen to that!!! Even the non-Z ones are fantastic!!!

OK...take off the brake lines at the calipers/drums. Undo the lines at the master. Wrap a rag at each corner (so that when you blow it out the old brake fluid doesn't get on the body---brake fluid eats paint). Get some carb cleaner, or brake cleaner aerosol and spray into the lines at the master cylinder side. If you don't have a compressor, get a couple of compressed air can (like for blowing off keyboards etc) and blow air throught the brake lines. Reconnect the lines at the wheels. Bench bleed the master cylinder (new one) before putting it in the car (again use the search function here). Then bolt the master into the car and bleed as I mentioned above. If you don't have a brake bleeding kit, then just a piece of vacuum line that is the right size to slip over the bleeder nipple will work. About two feet of it. Put the open side into an old can with a little brake fluid in it. Get a Chiltons manual from the parts store next time you are there....sounds like you will need it..... This is all very basic stuff that you should learn how to do, and the Chiltons will tell you how.....

Get a new master and install it yourself...it's very easy to do. Bench bleed it first (plenty of posts in the archives on how to do that). Then just bleed new fluid to all four corners, starting with the wheel fartherest away from the master (right rear), then left rear, then right front then left front. Even for the 'rookie' it should not take more than 3 hours max..... BTW...buy a NEW master cylinder, not a rebuilt one. It's only a little more $$$, but it is well worth it....