hughdogz

T04E .60 trim compressor housing with a .50 trim wheel. T3 .63 A/R turbine housing, stage III wheel. I got the optional "old-style" Ford 5-bolt turbo housing, to accomodate the ATP "Ultimate Internal Wastegate". It could have been a fluke that I got jacked around...you're right, the guy does seem really nice and helpful to talk to, and the 5-bolt housing fits perfect with the ATP wastegate...

Guys, I hope you have better luck with Ken than I did... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130918 He took FOREVER to get me the turbo (like a few months??). Every time I called him he kept saying just one more week, and it was still at the powdercoater. Then finally he said he just took it to the powdercoater I asked for a .50 trim compressor housing (so I wouldn't need a spacer) and I got a .60 trim housing instead I asked for high-temp powdercoating on the turbine housing and got cermachrome instead. It is a pretty nice unit, I'm not too unhappy, except for the coating.

Skib, wake up...you're sleep-surfing again! Haha, just kidding Man. I know...I know!! Nose to the gridstone is the only way...

Hey thanks for all the comments guys! Prox is right, I think the plugged cat was holding me back, so I hollowed it out and gained a second and a half! My next project is to install a mildly ported and polished head, ported exhaust manifold, T3/T04E, ulitmate internal wastegate (if it fits), 3" downpipe and exhaust to a straight-through Borla XR-1 muffler, and a 3" dual-3" out tip. It will be tight as hell to fit, but I think it will work. If I had the Wolf's PWM boost controller tuned correctly, I wouldn't have misfired / backfired in 1st gear on my track vid...I could almost be in the 13's with what I have now. My OEM head gasket finally gave up the ghost on my last pass (150k original motor, never rebuilt or head pulled). I guess it's time for some upgrades early...ARP head studs now added to the list.

Happy Birthday Master Ron!! I thank you for all the help and knowledge you've given me over the years...

Skib filmed this tonight at PIR. I made a HUGE improvement over last time!! Last time: ~15.5 @ 85 MPH, 2.6 60' time. This time: 14.174 @ 98.21 MPH, 2.124 60' time, .158 R/T Youtube Vid: I blew a head gasket on this run, but it was a 25 year-old stock head / turbo / exhaust anyway.

I think the pics tell the story... WTF?! There's briquettes inside, LOL! What clued me in was that I couldn't get past 5000 RPM at the track last week (Drag racing at Portland International Raceway). Then, the next day I couldn't generate more than about 5 pounds of boost. I cleaned out all the junk, and now I can hardly keep the boost below 16 pounds!! I'd better do quicker than a 15.5 in the 1/4 mile tonight...wish me luck. Later, -hughdogz

My Daily Driver.

I bet you can. Even if you cannot (or can't) spell, you are still a very cool (multi-lingual) guy Masew. Typing on the other hand...spell checking...should be cake!

Where are these good looking z's photos?? I don't see any yet. Haha! Just kidding everyone.

1982 280ZX Turbo Hugh Henderson Portland, Oregon

Not necessarily, you may be able to find a ZXT distributor & ignitor for from someone on here for less than that. The n/a uses an E12-80 ignition module, but the turbo has a different one located next to the coil. Make sure you have one of those too. Yeah, just like a piston is a piston and and an ECU is an ECU. Seriously...you don't have much further to go now!

The '82-83 turbo distributors use an Optical cam angle sensor, while the n/a's are induction. The turbo ECU will be expecting a digital signal, not an analog. The optical sensor uses the "chopper wheel" which will output a square wave signal (digital = on, off, on, off). The n/a will be a sinusoidal-waveform (analog, like an ocean wave = rising, falling, rising, falling). I'm pretty sure you'd need a ZXT distributor if it is '82-83 turbo ECU (or the '81 crank damper & CAS if the turbo ECU is an '81). Hope this helps MJ...

You could turn the "edge display" off.

About 3-4 years ago, I did the SAME thing, only with a cam cover bolt. It was right before the MSA show, and I was hesitant to start pulling stuff off, and even more reluctant to turn the engine over. Since I didn't see it in the front cover, it probably dropped into the oil pan. My buddie Bryan said start it up, and to my surprise it has been running fine ever since! He even said I should drop another one down there to prove that it will still run fine, LOL! [Edit: If I was in the same position today, I'd probably remove the spark plugs an "manually" crank the engine over slowly to see it there is a problem before I'd go bumping the starter. Good luck!]

I added 2.5 => 3 tubes (4 oz each) and the knocking is more bearable now. I've noticed that once the oil warms up, it gets much less noisy around slow, sharp turns. This is really strange since this is opposite to what Zmanco is experiencing... If it is still a problem, I'll go with some Redline CLSD oil like aarang mentioned. Thanks guys, -Hugh

You Genius ... Six_Shooter, I think that would work great. I believe there are two GM MAP sensors already installed.

I'd be interested in both the buckets and ducted fenders...name your price!! (within reason...I'm a cheapo sometimes btw, ) Thanks for supporting the S130 crowd!! Cheers PR280z!!

There must be some way to set up a manometer between each side of the I/C...but then recording it and keeping the fluid out of your engine may be challenging. John, doesn't your boost gauge have a recorded max indicator? You can hook that up on the I/C inlet side and keep your Tec3 datalogger as the outlet side. Then compare the difference in the recorded max pressures. I'd think that the pressure drop across the piping may be negligible. Not sure if it will work, since there may only be a few PSI pressure drop. The boost gauge is probably not as accurate as a MAP sensor (even though it is MAP-sensor based, the dial is analog). It would be interesting to see the results...

True, but who knows if it still has the '82 head after 25+ years and 200K+ miles...it could have been swapped to an '83 hydraulic p90A.

Have you pulled the valve cover to see if it has mechanical or hydraulic lifters? P90A's came in both types...it may just need valve adjusting.

Hey Willens, it sucks to hear about that. Not a very good start on the 'ol 280ZXT If I were in your shoes, I'd do a compression check on the head to see if you get some good #'s across the board before you pull the head or source a replacement. You can probably borrow a compression tester from Autozone...do a dry test, then a wet test. You should be able to get say 130-150 pounds across the board. Just because the turbo shaft spins freely doesn't mean that it isn't shot. You should also check the "axial play" to make sure that it isn't excessive. Also, you could pull the oil drain tube to see if it is blocked...if it is, that could send a majority of the oil right through the turbo the wrong way... Keep us posted...and may the Z-Force be with you!!

Hi Jon, I appreciate your reply. I'm having chattering issues with my newly installed KAAZ. I used one tube of CRC fluid to my 80-90W Valvoline GL-5 gear oil. I was considering adding more, but the CRC instructions say to not add more than one tube, but the "knockety-knock" is pretty annoying. I'll add another 1/2 => 1 tube, give it a whirl and report back. Thanks! -hughdogz

I think he found that arch that fell down in Utah the other week... It kind of reminds me of Corvette Summer!! (especially if it was painted red)