hughdogz

Oh man, that would be great if you could rescue those molds Justin!! Ahh...I think that airdam mold would look kind of funny on a Z.

Mopar69, I think what sweetleaf was saying is that '82 turbos came with either a P90 or P90A head, both of which had mechanical lifters. For example, my '82 turbo made in 8/82 has a P90A head, yet it has mechanical lifters. All '83 Turbos were P90A and hydraulic lifters. I hope I'm not posting more mis-information or else I'll get my fingers chopped off!

I can edit (delete) my quote...It happens to the best of us, Man. I wonder just where these molds originated. Check out this S30 airdam still in the mold: It looks like the one I have installed on my 260Z! [Edit: I just asked the seller which molds he has for the ZX and pics of the IMSA widebody G-Nose]

If the seller would be willing to part with all those molds for $100, sheesh...I'd take all of them, lol. I wonder what an IMSA G-Nose widebody kit looks like...

AIRDAM FLARE SPOILER MOLDS 914 2002 Datsun Z - $100 - One of our members in NW-Z asked the seller about the S30 molds and here is what they had to say: "240Z: 3 different airdam molds, 280Z: 2 different airdam molds, 240-280Z: 3 different rear spoiler molds, 3 different sets of flare molds, Full IMSA wide body Fender Kit with G-Nose and airdam, 2 different hood molds." Best regards, -Hugh

FORTRAN rims, hehe. I used to write Finite Element code in Fortran... I think you can fit those, but i agree with lorenzo, they may look a teeny bit bulgy, but probably not balloon-like. It will also depend on the aspect ratio, or "series" of the tire. For your run-of-the mill 15" 225 tires (50 series), Kumho says they can fit on a rim size 6"-8". So a 7" rim is right in the middle: http://www.kumhousa.com/tires/passenger/high-performance.do (click on view printable spec sheet) However, they say the section width will be 9.2" on a 7" rim, so the tire would extend past the rim lip [9.2"-(7"+1")]/2 = 0.6" or about 5/8" which isn't too bad and may save your rims from a little unexpected curb rash while parallel parking... Hope this helped, -Hugh [Edit: In my opinion, looks are secondary. What you should really be concerned about is the tire rubbing against the strut tube (and excessive sidewall deflection from running too wide of a tire for the rim). If you don't have coilovers, a 4.5" (114.3 mm) is about the maximum backspacing you can safely run without any rubbing issues. I suggest that once you get your rims, test mount them before you get the tires mounted. I would want at least 1/2" (~13mm) of clearance between the tire and the strut tube (minimum 30mm between the rim and strut tube, just my guess). You will get sidewall deflection from lateral G-forces while cornering. If you don't have this much room, look into running a spacer (which I hope will not be needed) or else go with some 205 width tires like I did on my 7" width rims.]

Since this is the z-car I drive the most, and my only other driver I thought I'd share some pics and descriptions. I decided to get this Z when my 1981 280ZX 2+2 wouldn't pass emissions. I lost interest in the 2+ (since I now had the S130 turbo coupe). Plus, the 260Z was way cooler in my opinion anyway, lol. It has four-screw round-top SU's, and the bumpers were already gone when the P.O. sold me her. It also had the "Hurricane-Dukes-of-Hazzard" wheels, and an air dam, along with a two-tone paint job (black but dark metallic blue across the top). The bondo was already falling off when I purchased the car, but oh well, for $1400 it wasn't too bad. It also came with a Hooker muffler :lmao:that was about to fall off since part of the pipe is paper-thin from rust. It patched up pretty well, and I kind of like the loud exhaust to be honest. The strangest things were on the car when I got it. There was a mini RC plane carburetor on the balance tube, and it had an ignition coil setup hooked up to a "pushbutton starter" as the theft deterrent system, lol. Since then, I added an Autopower roll bar, Toyo tires, and an electric fan. I have a new radiator that I bought at the MSA garage sale for $40, so that will do wonders. Also I have a 105 amp alternator and that made a BIG difference in how it performed. Also new hatch seals were mandatory, cough, cough... I tried those Vortek generators at one point in time, but couldn't tell that they made any difference, especially since I'm rockin' those cheezy pop-up moon roofs, and I have no wing or spoiler. These are some pretty old pics, it has been through some parking lot damage, dog damage, tow truck damage, etc. but it still goes and goes and has never really stranded me yet. My future plans are implanting an L28ET, Nissan 5-speed and R200 courtesy of my 2+parts car. ...I made the Z-Freak sticker from a Torque Freaks sticker (now defunct). Yeee!!! Haaaawwww!!!! I removed one of the rear bumper shocks, but I'm too lazy to drop the gas tank to remove the other one just yet. Some people have asked if it is another tailpipe! A couple more driveway shots: Rally Dreaming / Camping: Of course I call it Maku's car. He can climb right over the harness bar and stays on a 2" thick piece of rubber that is an anti-fatigue material used for machine operators. I cut it to shape, and it really cut down on the road noise too! (I'll post pics of that later). He loves just hopping in and sitting in the car, and rides with me everywhere in it. It is cool because since he is well over 100 pounds, he can provide good rear-wheel traction, especially when the the conditions are wet. I can definately tell the difference when he's not there. I also have an 11/1970 240Z that is in such bad shape, it is worthy of making a mull movie. I think I wanted the biggest project I could possibly make for myself, but that is another story altogether. Later, -Hugh

I hear ya Man. When I was in college at UIUC and drove my '78 Celica from Oregon, people would ask me if the car was from Russia!? I've seen some nice Z32's but that's it, and that was ten years ago! I'm not sure where in Illinois you're located, but I found this: http://www.windycityzclub.com/ Hope this helps...

Bo, I swear you must have Herbie's sister! Was it a SS braided line? Oh man...

I really mean no offense by this, but I hope we can refrain from any more derogatory comments such as this one. I think we can all share opinions on the build, but let's try to keep ethnicity out of it... I hope I'm not stepping on any toes, or crossing the line here, but I thought this was something I should say since I started the thread. Cheers, -Hugh

Look at ~2:00 minutes. And I thought my 1.75" adapters were ginormous. These appear to be maybe 8" (200 mm) thick!

I would be getting ~$600 since I'm single, but I'm only getting ~$250. Sooo, maybe I'll finally get those big and beefy T^3 T/C rods I've had my eyes on for a LONG time!

^^^ I agree 100%. S130's are becoming popular again. You should have seen how many 280ZX's were at the MSA show this year. There was probably twice as many compared to previous years. I think it is because the S130's are over 25 years old, and have the less restrictive emissions requirements now (at least in California). I'm not sure about the m/c, but I would think you'd need a brake proportioning valve. I think Dave? at AZC could tell us for sure. Even though the 13" rotors and billet calipers will definately give better braking (and bragging rights, lol) I'm not sure that the increased unsprung weight will be worth it. Also, I saw a set of the fronts go on ebay for ~$500 last week. The guy said that these won't work with the new suspension setup he's using. Does that mean you cannot run these with coilovers? Maybe he did a 5-lug conversion or something...hmm.

No worries Challenger! I'm glad there is a sticky I can quote, because I have a hard time keeping that stuff in my head, lol.

For the rail, the turbo doesn't have a cold start injector... As for the color: ...Also the turbo manifold has a safety pop valve near the EGR

You might have set the choke cables too tight so that it has the butterfly valves cracked open too much. The pistons are supposed to fall back down...if the pistons are really stuck you might have a bent needle or more likely the tops aren't centered. Try tightening the tops after ensuring that the piston moves up and down freely. You should also add a little bit of ATF so the dampers have some juice. You don't want to fill the tubes all the way up, or else the fluid will just leak out.

Has anyone near Menlo Park, California checked out this place yet? There seems to be some great tools and machines available. Overview: http://www.techshop.ws/index.html Equipment: http://www.techshop.ws/equipment.html Locations: Seattle, WA Portland, OR Marin, CA Sacramento, CA Los Angeles, CA San Diego, CA Austin, TX Orlando, FL Durham, NC

You are totally right plexus, my bad. With vented rotors, the gasses can escape the hole behind the pad. However, our ZX's have non-vented rotors in the rears, so I still think slotted would be better in that case. Shoot, I thought it was a choice between bolt-on slotted or cross-drilled. If you really want a sweet setup and have ~$2000 USD to spare, go with the AZC six piston, billet calipers with the 13" rotors. HOT DAMN!! http://www.arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html

Heat soaking of the fuel rail / injectors? Do you have a heat shield on the intake manifold, or a thermal coating on the exhaust manifold? My l28ET has lean running problems and high idle if I start it maybe 5-20 minutes it after it has been run hard.

My Power Slots have lasted a LONG time. I'm not sure, but they might just buy Brembo rotors and slot them. I've heard that cross drilled aren't that great by comparison. They tend to crack more than slotted. Plus, with slotted, the gasses can escape while the slot is behind the bad. With cross-drilled the gasses can escape into the hole, but cannot escape out of the hole until after the hole leaves from behind the pad.

An Autometer pod for early RX7's works great (single or dual). I agree with Guy, that one looks like a hybrid of one dual and one single.

I would like to know too. It would be great if I could use an Autometer mechanical speedo in place of the stock one, using the stock speedo cable. I wonder how Guy80LT1 did his...hmm.

Not sure if this will help, but my friend had the same problem with his old-school HKS BOV. It would be halfway open at idle, so it really messed with the stock FI. There are sometimes two vacuum ports on BOV or re-circulation valves. We ended up teeing them and the valve stayed shut at idle.

The road trip went pretty well overall. I had no real problems with the ZXT. We caravan-ed back with a new Hyundai Accent rental that a friend had, and the ZXT mileage was almost on par! (e.g. I would burn through twelve gallons while they would burn through eleven). I used about 2.5 tanks of gas to get from PDX to LAX. Some things worth mentioning that happened, or that I need to change: The 130 MPH speedometer I purchased from Ebay, installed in place of the 85 MPH isn't working well. The needle would bounce all over the place after ~80 MPH The Autometer EGT gauge failed. At one point, I pegged it over 1600 degrees F and it never came back! It is supposed to re-zero when it's power turned off, then back on. It does that but immediately pegs to 1600 again. The wideband sensor overheated when we spent over an hour idling in LA traffic Sunday afternoon. I thought I burned up another sensor, but it magically started working again the next day. I think one reason is that I'm still using the stock downpipe (the bung location is too close to the turbo exhaust housing). I used one of Innovate's heat sink bung extenders, but I probably should have also used a copper heat shield as well. You guys were right. I had heat soak problems in the fuel rail / intake manifold at low load after startup (due to not running heat shields). I get high AFR's until I increase the load. The heat soak problem disappears after a few minutes of cruising. No brake caliper bolt fell out this year for me, but one fell out of my buddie's ZXT as soon as we arrived in Anaheim. The LA freeways tend to shake apart our Z's. Future plans for the next year: Mechanical: Start designing and piecing together a 3" exhaust system, with an electronically controlled cutout T3/T04E turbo & ATP internal wastegate (and port the wastegate outlet too?) Gasket match the intake and exhaust manifolds (and port the exhaust) Get manifolds, downpipe, etc. thermal coated Figure out how to get my KAAZ 1.5-way LSD installed Head work (unshroud valves, gasket match, radius intake runners, 5-angle valve job and cam install from Rusch Motorsports) oil cooler from a SAAB Centerforce clutch Exterior: Design a belly-pan and possibly a splitter Beta Motorsports carbon fiber hood Rear diffuser or at least fix the "scoop" in the rear valance Of course there is also tuning the Wolf V500 EMS. I still haven't figured out the PWM boost controller, my fuel map is still incomplete and rough in some places. I haven't even started touching the timing map yet. (thanks again Bo for the base maps, they are working great!!) It was excellent to finally meet and talk to some of you Guys at the events!! I really enjoyed meeting Bo (KTM), Frank280ZX, Tony D, X64V, John Coffey, Brian Blake, Jeff P, etc. just to mention a few. What an awesome weekend!!

I'm leaving early tomorrow morning (~6:15). My buddie Bryan is taking his ZXT too! We will try to meet up with some more Z-heads at Z-Therapy in Salem at 7am. I just finished fixing a MAJOR oil leak at the turbo oil feed line banjo bolt. I thought I wasn't going to be able go after all! I hope that we make it to SoCal in one piece (and no mechanical troubles) and still have some spending money when I get there, lol! My Fuel map is still fairly of rich in a few places, we'll see just how much the fuel will cost me. I'm thinking gas will only get more expensive the further south we go. Filler up!!