hughdogz

They should at least do a feature of all the stuff you're controlling (and done) with the Wolf on their website.

Yasin, I think this is WAY better than my idea of using Solex locks. I some ways, I'm glad I'm such a procrastinator...I can wait for you and frank280zx to come up with good ideas for these hoods. Thanks for the tip! Looks Awesome Man! [Edit] So I take it that the "low profile" ones might have interference issues? (top surface mount "Plus-Flush") (below surface "Flush") http://www.aerocatch.net/

You're probably spot-on Prox... I know you can get accurate positions for GPS (~5 meters?), I wasn't sure if the speedo was so crude. Thanks!

http://www.nordskogperformance.net/products/marine/gps/detail/hga120.htm Why don't they make these in 160 MPH versions?

I already threw it away! Just kidding, but no thanks. I'd rather keep it mint than to possibly bust up the spine in a scanner. I'm considering getting a subscription...it's a mere $10 per year. If I get a double first issue, I'll sell you a copy.

I might know the guy that sold you the kit. Does his name start with a B and end with an N? Shipping a box that size may cost $100-200. [Edit: First, a cardboard box is needed to fit the parts. As others have mentioned, Greyhound could do it for less than other carriers. I have next week off, so I can actually get out during the workday. I doubt your're willing to cut it in half like Vinh does to ship parts from JPN. ]

Yep, everyone got one in their goodie bag who entered in the Canby 2008 car show.

Now THAT is COOL! I really like your ZX rdelat

:lmao: Chopped fillet mignon? With a bit of Mad Scientist thrown in there?

I'd say #3 for the following reasons: With the changed Volumetric Efficiency of the engine, you can street tune the fuel map safely below atmospheric. Trust me, it won't blow up even (accidentally) running into 17-18 AFR's (I was hesitant to believe Bo at first, but it's true! ) Next, street tune the fuel map to ~7psi boost, and you're still pretty much in the safe zone... Slowly work your way up to ~12-15 psi boost I think that as long as you don't mess with advancing the timing too much (just keep using Bo's base timing map) you probably won't blow anything up (detonate) creating the fuel map. As TonyD mentioned, you only really need to Dyno tune for high speed. You can datalog up to ~85 MPH (130 KPH) if you find a long, empty stretch of road. Just try to keep an eye on the AFR gauge to make sure you're not running too lean in boost. I'm not sure why many people think the Dyno is so much safer for initial tuning . With a Mustang dyno (versus an inertial dyno) you can have a constant load across RPM ranges. This will help rough out the map in the least amount of time. Once you understand how use the Wolf and Logworks, you'll be able to "talk the talk" and "walk the walk" with the dyno operator and save time ($$$) so they won't have to self-train how to use the Wolf interface. I can send you my Logworks3 template that contains a fuel correction macro and target AFR table. You're on your own for timing tuning. Good Luck! -Hugh

Kind of opposite (but similar) to Cygnusx1's idea... What if the material properties could change instantly, to stiffen the skin in case an object is encountered. Maybe by the forces from object itself, or using proximity sensors and electrifying the skin...kind of like what happens with shape memory alloys. (Not that you'd ever crash one of those babies )

From what I understand...not only does Bo have a "meth map" (just as configurable as a "conventional" fuel map) but when the meth pressure? drops below a certain point, it "automagically" goes back to the "fuel only" map. I'm telling ya, the WOLF is bad-a$$ (in many regards)

Tap plastics is the place. It is located off I-5 in Tigard, near Home Depot. They sell plastics (Plexi, Lexan,etc.), fiberglass supplies, even Carbon Fiber and Kevlar. They have a scrap bin you can look through, with pieces much larger than you're looking for for maybe five bucks. They can also custom cut (or bend) any piece as well... http://www.tapplastics.com/ [Edit: I think Cygnusx's idea of film is probably the best. $2.25 for vinyl cling film and you're good to go! http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=272&& ]

This is my 1986 Toyota 4x4 "Toybo" project. OEM 22RTE engine with CT20 turbo (it's tiny ) Mods already done: PowerTRAX rear diff locker unit 11.5" wide Enkei's with BFG 31" tires Bushwacker Flares Lifted with upgraded dampers Heavy-duty rear bumper with tow ball Brush guard This RTE has seen some miles! CT20...the wastegate actuator is the size of my thumb! But check out the size of this (steering) idler arm. BEEF!! I had to do something about small-ish turbo size, so I got a hold of this exhaust manifold with a T3 flange: It needed porting: The brakes were terrible when I got it, so I got new pads, rotors and rebuilt Toyota 4-piston S12-8 calipers are stock... I was able to pass DEQ by installing a new catalytic converter. Max Hyrdocarbon is 200 and it got 14! Max COx was ~14% and it got 0.14% or something crazy like that. Future mods: T3 turbo with .48 A/R turbine (it should spool around 1750 RPM for good low-end torque!) Front mount intercooler Either Wolf or SDS EMS That's about it for now...

I just want to say that Justin made good on his statement to me. I met up with Justin and received my flanges Memorial Day weekend. Patience Grasshoppers (Thanks Justin, you are a good friend) Best regards, -Hugh

^^^ That is so true Tony. I tried to learn Japanese, but gave up...Spanish is much easier for me to learn. I've seen my Mom "write" Kanji on her palm sometimes when conversing to another Japanese, just like you said. What is really funny is when they catch themselves "palming" Kanji while they are talking on the phone! What is really cool is that my Mom can still communicate with her Chinese doctor, when they both write in Kanji / Traditional Chinese.

I've been getting really crappy gas mileage lately on the old 260Z, so I decided to lean out the fuel mixtures a bit. I was getting a mere ~20 MPG, but since the gas formulation has changed to 9-10% ethanol I've been getting only 15-18 MPG So, I had the 3-month de-carbonation ritual to do anyway, and thought it would be a perfect time to tune lean. I tried to adjust the mixtures "by ear", turning each screw to get a good steady idle. But when I went to go drive it, something wasn't quite right. I seemed to have lost power. I then decided to use an LM1 to find out my AFR's. Since I have a 6-1 header, I couldn't really weld in two bungs (one for each carb). So I quickly made a tailpipe clamp: The LM1 is so accurate. I could see that one carb was rich, and one was lean. The AFR's went 14, 17, 14, 17, etc. very quickly. One mixture knob was turned out 3.5 turns and the other 4 turns. I turned them both to 3 turns, and my AFR's were at 20 and there were no complaints from the engine running too lean at idle. When I revved (with no load) to about 2000-3000 RPM, I would go to 14-14.5 AFR's. I'm hoping I'll get at least 20-25 MPG's now. We'll see. I also replaced all fuel hoses (some were cracking) with some new 5/16" FI hose I had laying around...

Well, that didn't take long. Good job Bo! So Calgary280zt is running fully sequential injection now? Way Cool!

Very cool Paul!! ("cheating" or not )

Justin!... Justin!... Justin!... Echo!... Echo!... Echo!.. Hey Man, are you busy this weekend? We can meet up at the Ship, and I'll buy you a beer in exchange for the flanges I hope everything is going allright.

I've been checking out Gabe's thread (and Austin's pics too) about porting the L28ET exhaust manifold: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133065 I have a P90A head and the exhaust ports line up perfectly to an OEM gasket. I want to gasket match this exhaust manifold, but I'm wondering if this warp is normal or not, since it doesn't seem to line up. I suppose I could gasket match port-centered versus gasket / head-centered? I don't know what's going on, I'm hoping it will expand and line up after it reaches operataing temperature. I know there is quite a bit of allowable float on the flange...but this seems a bit excessive to me. What do the experts say? Thanks! -hughdogz #1: #2: 3 & 4: #5: #6:

Remove the combination switch and try cleaning the contacts inside. Hope this helps...

Rear hatch?? Sure, as long as you're not mixing 2+2 with a coupe.

Exactly. That was the premise of my post. The "flapper" OEM AFM on the L28E's don't measure or take into account the air pressure, rather they measure the air velocity. I'm probably talking over my head here. I need to bust out the FSM to know for sure.

Only the front toe is adjustable on S130's.