hughdogz

Progress pics

Saweeeet!! It sounds great Austin...almost like a formula car.

You're right KTM, ceramic coating. I thought it was a form of powercoating... I'm probably going to go with "cerma-chrome" since the turbine housing is already done that way. I know it is going to "blue" and possibly flake off when I run rich AFR's. I'll just have to be really careful. Maybe I should get the black "super high heat" ceramic coating instead, but that would't look quite as nice as cermachrome...sheesh, what's a guy to do?

I don't know if it has already been discussed in detail on this forum, but I remember a few things from other fourms...they were an option only on '83 models. 1) As with any 1980-83, they are limited to 85 MPH due to federal regulations at the time ("I can't drive 55" remember those days?). There has been mention on here that you could switch out the speedo cog, and use the KPH setting to go over 85 MPH 2) They are reliable, however the tachometer portion doesn't appear linear. i.e. the bars are progressively shorter, the higher the RPM. This seems opposite of what you'd expect... 3) I think they'll plug right in, in place of an '83 analog cluster, but I'm not sure they'd plug right into a '79-82 harness 4) My buddie who has one said he had a helluva time trying to find the correct replacement coolant temperature sensor. I think you'd have to also come up with at least one specific sensor for it to work properly. Also the illumination is in green. Not sure if all '83's are, but '79-'82 have amber. Hope this helped, -hughdogz

Allright. Thanks for the votes of confidence Careless and Yasin. I'm sure it will flow, but I'm wondering how much backpressure that kink is causing me. Plus, I want to get the DP (and wastegate) powder coated. After that point I can't afford to do any rework. I'm going to have to put my perfectionist attitude in check, and just finish the job...the cat-back portion going over the rear trailing arm looks equally as daunting (if not more). Someday, I want to go to a GT-Series turbo (ball-bearing for faster spoolup) and external wastegate (maybe a tubular header purchase will materialize by then too). So I'll end up redoing it again anyway...I think this will meet my immediate goal. Yasin, you're really going to 3.5", huh? That is going to sound soo beefy!! I can't wait to check it out. kvansic162, no doubt...I never thought it would be so difficult to get a nice, smooth transitioning exhaust going. I think it would be challenging for me to make profit producing parts. My hat's off to the folks who have the ability to offer them. You'd think you'd have to sell at least a few units just to hit the break-even point of the R&D alone. Does anyone have one of JeffP's "Killer 280ZX 3" exhaust" setups for sale? *grins and shakes head* Thanks again Guys, Later! -hughdogz

Maybe this should get moved into the exhaust section... Anyway, I'm further along now. It isn't as straight as I hoped for (check out the crooked pics) I tucked it up pretty close to the body and supports (maybe too close ). I was trying to keep it from dropping below the frame rails. I'm down to a half an inch of space between the body and exhaust in some places. I don't know if that is too close or not. I can't decide if I should finish welding it up, or grind off the tack welds and start over... Later, -hughdogz Sometimes, you just get lucky...(I wish welding was as easy as cutting )

Coming back to drool over this thread one more time I think this is one of the top 3 badazz 280ZXT's on this site (Bernard and JeffP come in second and third, hehe ) Any close-up pics of your coilovers ? (maybe I missed the thread)

I think you may be hard pressed to run a "same-side" IC without cutting into the core support. Unless you route at least one of the pipes below the rail, I don't think there is a way to use OEM holes unless you don't want the intake to be in front of the core support. I also have a IC that uses opposite side. Here is what I did to minimize the cutting into the core support, using the OEM stock airbox holes and 2.25" tubing, and still have a CAI: Here is where I cut into the headlight bracket and outer core support: I hope Mayolives and 240Hoke don't mind me linking their photos... Over the support (doubtful this is possible unless you cut the hood (like Phil280ZXT (?)) Below...like Austin did (I think 280ZForce routed it this way too): Later, -hughdogz

Ahh...I see what HowlerMonkey is saying now. Thanks Timz I've been wondering about this as well. I think you could use an idler pulley / sheave as a "quick disconnect" of the belt (or else use a turnbuckle tensioner) to disable the alternator before starting. Another way could be to have one of those circuit "keys" to cut off the charge wire after starting... I guess it all comes down to how much energy (Joules, etc.) your coil(s), injectors, headlights, etc. draw and the alternator efficiency. You guys are probably right that it is a negligible draw on the HP to run an alternator.

I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, but how does your coil start at 13.8-14.1 volts if the alternator is not spinning yet? Voltage compensation is available on some EMS' (i.e. for injector opening times, etc.)

I finally got going on making my 3" downpipe! Here is a mockup, it is looking promising so far. I know I still have a couple leaks to fix

I finally got going on making my 3" downpipe! Here is a mockup, it is looking pretty promising so far.

Hi Nismo280zEd, I tried using one of those ATC boxes. I found out they don't have a common "bus" for the set of fuses. That is, you have to make a separate power source for each fuse. (i.e. they are bunch of single fuses in one block). To make it work, I used a long screw to connect all the "top" terminals together and ran one power wire to it. However, I didn't like the looks of it all that much, and didn't feel it was as safe as it could be. For a power supply, I saw one of Ron Tyler's posts and reverse-engineered his design (after consulting him first ) and came up with this: I use this as my main (75 amp breaker) power supply, then I can run a buss-bar off of one of the circuit breakers to other locations: (Old photo just to give you an idea, I've totally reworked this area now) You can order all the circuit breakers, etc. from waytek. Hope this helped...

I'd get a weatherpack crimper that does two crimps in one. The one for the wire has open barrel that "folds" the terminal, but does is with parallel jaws, not like a pair of pliers. The other crimp is for the seal, which makes a perfectly round crimp. There are other variations like metri-pack that uses a different crimper... Crimping tool ($130) http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail/M37/402 Removal tool ($5 Good advice, BJ) http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail/M37/421 I'd recommend a spare removal tool too, since I found they can be bent pretty easily. The crimpers work great...even better once you have a lot of practice Hope this helped...

Thanks for the Ford info...maybe someday I'll get some kind of "hyper-drive" system together..hehe I doubt that a turbo motor would drain more energy per quarter mile than an n/a would. I was just trying to say that a super-cool IC would be super-cool!! Muhaha!! ...Back to my "Mad-Scientist" lab. Please keep the feedback / ideas coming... I appreciate that. Laterz, -hughdogz

Hey Guys, I posted one of my "MacGyver" stories in this thread and I thought it would be cool to hear other ones too! In case you don't know who MacGyver was, here is the Wiki clicky. Story #1: I had a '78 Celica that I drove across the country (Portland to Chicago for college). Somewhere in Idaho, I spent the night at a rest area, not knowing that I had my foot on the brakes (all night) and it drained the battery. Luckily, I was on a big downhill slope, so I tried compression starting it, but no luck, there wasn't enough juice left in the battery to energize the coil...sheit! Then, I thought long and hard...where can I get some "electrons"? I remembered that I have some D-cells in my Mag-light flashlight. I taped six of them together in series with some good 'ol duct tape. Then used some speaker wire to connect them to the battery... Went to compression start it again, and Voila!! Instant Success!! Story #2: Same '78 Celica, same road trip... I was getting bored on the "long haul" and thought it would be fun to see how close I could get to empty on fuel before filling up again. So I'm really near empty, and I pass an oasis...it says next gas 48 miles. I want to play the game...so I think, "sure, I can make that" I get to the next oasis and it is *ABANDONED* ...Holy Cow...I think I'm dead (still somewhere in Idaho near Idaho Falls? on my way to Yellowstone). The next gas is 30 miles. I get another ten miles or so and the car starts sputtering, so I pull over... I figure there must be some more gas in the tank that the fuel pump cannot reach. I pull out the Haynes manual and it says I can access the gas tank through the access panel in the trunk. Sure enough, I see the fuel pump inlet is about 1 inch (~2.5 cm) above the bottom of the tank, and there still some fuel! I disconnect the the fuel pump and drop it down into the remaining gas...it starts back up, and sure enough..I made it to the next station!! Whoo Hooo!! (even then, the station is closed, but I wait until it opens the next morning...) To this day, I'll NEVER try that game again, LOL...

LOL 280ZForce...I hope I'm not the shmuck. I thought that John was halfway serious, now I can he was jesting. At PIR, they sells bags of ice for like $4 and I see guys packing it around their engine between runs (or they set it on the cam cover). I'm not sure how much that helps Man, you guys must think I'm smoking krack!

Hi John, now that is not a bad idea either. Thanks! I also thought of making an IC jacket that can be filled with dry ice, that way, no dripping! (just need to figure out what material to use as a conductive blanket) I do like the refrigration idea for heat soak during road racing though...maybe the Wolf ECU could monitor the Intake air temperature and kick on the compressor as needed

Hi Guys, I'm wondering why this hasn't been invented yet. I'm interested in opinions on whether or not this would be feasible. I know there are IC sprayers, N20 sprayers, etc. My idea is kind of a hybrid air / water IC and an air / air. Either that or it is just a glamorized air / water. I think as a first prototype I could simply route the evaporator lines "around" the IC, instead of integrating them into the core. I know there is the whole conservation of energy law, and it would take energy to run the compressor. I thinking the primary use would be to make the IC super-cool before a run at the strip (and while going down the strip). If it could be an electric compressor, this would reduce the parasitic losses if the alternator is disconnected. Am I just pipe dreaming or do you guys think this is a viable option? Thanks, -Hugh

[Edit: I'd say the answer is No...I doubt that the alternator spinning at that low an RPM could generate the current / voltage required...] Haha!! I have this great "MacGyver" story... I had a '78 Celica I drove across the country (Portland to Chicago). Somewhere in Idaho, I spent the night at a rest area, not knowing that I had my foot on the brakes and it drained the battery. Luckily, I was on a big downhill slope, so I tried compression starting it, but no luck, there wasn't enough power left in the Battery to energize the coil...sheit! Then, I thought long and hard...where can I get some "electrons". I remembered that I have some D-cells in my Maglight flashlight. I taped them together in series with some good 'ol duct tape, used some speaker wire to connect them to the battery... Went to compression start it, and Voila!! Success!!

October 20th!! (I hope you don't mind the belated post Paul). I was only 5 years and one day late, or else we'd be fraternal twins. I hope you had a great B-Day!! -hughdogz

Thanks everyone!! I think I got more happy B-Day wishes from this site than I had from "real-life", LOL... You guys are Great, and I totally appreciate all the friendships made and "bottomless information" available from Hybridz.org!! Cheers, -hughdogz

sorry to hear about that jgkurz!! I was really hoping for this one.

Hi Yasin, I don't know if this is the cause of the issue, but I couldn't get above ~4500 RPM due to a clogged Catylitic converter. I doubt that is your problem. You have an SDS or megasquirt? I know the OEM EFI would throw a fit at ~3500 rpms if all the ECU, etc. connections are not clean. I wish I could help some more...perhaps more experts will chime in.

I appreciate the kind words, John. The way I have it set up is going from the engine block breather => hose => Catch can => Hose => PCV in the intake manifold. It catches some really nasty "blow-by" oil, but I still see some collecting in the return line. This says to me that it isn't catching all the catch can can. I wonder if I mounted it lower, gravity would keep more of the oil in the can...if the vacuum is high enough, I don't think it would matter too much. I've never taken apart my Cusco catch-can. I wonder if it has some sort of baffle inside, like an air-water separator for a shop air compressor. I think some kind of stainless gauze might trap the oil better too.