hughdogz

It's a white 280ZX to boot! I heard that some of them in the 80's drove around with a bag of "white stuff" in the centercaps.

I wonder if a catalytic converter would also act as a resonator.

Hey, that's not bad considering Summit charges even more! http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=QTP%2D10300&N=700+115&autoview=sku ($42.95) Plus this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=QTP%2DQTEC30&N=700+115&autoview=sku ($159.95) On that fleabay kit, you also get a V-band kit and a dump pipe! How do they do it for so much less? I wonder if it inferior quality or something. I've heard that if you shut off your hot exhaust with the butterfly in the closed position, it may stick there due to the different thermal expansion coefficients of the materials (and sticktion?).

I'll have to agree with Paul on the tires, but those rims seem like "Enkei Mesh" look-a-likes to me... If you have them already, go ahead and remove wheel and the lug nut(s). Often times, Enkei will cast the manufacturer, model / part number and size behind the mounting flange surface. Worth a look, and some "mag" style lug-nuts (versus acorn) would do those wheels well. M12x1.25 [Edit: I think "wheels" means rim + tire. No? ]

Sounds like it may be a bad voltage regulator. If you have an L28, then the alternator is probably internally regulated. Take it to the parts place to have it checked...it's free, right?

Formula 1 Performance "Spinners"

Cool Man! That was worth going down there to get. So 0% rust, and all-original except for the stereo (and "performance paint":wink:)? Sweet! It looks strange seeing a stock L28 now, hehe.

I can imagine dr_hunt in one of those Corona commercials...sitting on the beach...surfing HBZ on a laptop, hehe.

Haha!! That's Awesome Austin! No one will understand a 350Z with a "DATSUN" plate unless they know the Z heritage.

Yasin' date='[/color'] From what I can tell, there are a few differences. I think they basically took the below bumper portion from the S30 type III and the upper portion from the S130 type II. This means: Type III has foglight / brake duct holes. If this isn’t appealing or useful, they can be filled-in The opening is bigger than the type II, which may or may not be better (cooling versus aero) The lower lip protrudes forward more than the type II. I like this better since it is almost a splitter now The bottom doesn’t appear to “slope up†towards the front as much as a type II. You might even be able to run a real splitter, since it will be nearly horizontal I think they might have changed their vendor, since a buddie of mine recently installed a brand-new type II on his ZXR and said it wasn't quite symmetric as to how far the bumper sticks out below the headlight nacelle / bucket?? roye@hrewheels.com, the gap is there from the factory, but it doesn't look quite so big OEM. There is a piece of black rubber that is attached to the underside of the hood, that "closes" the gap. With these front fascias, there could be a slight issue with interference when the hood opens and closes. It works fine on mine, but it seems to not work so well on the newer type II's (I know two ZX's that have this problem). It is probably in how tight you install the airdam. You may have to trim the rubber piece down a bit. The pic is of the prototype, they probably still have some minor tweaking to do. Overall, I think it is great and MSA is showing some love for the ‘ol 280ZX’s. I think biggest factor is in the installation. I’ve seen examples where the fascia is not only glassed-in, but you can fasten it tight up against the headlight buckets, and mold it in so there is no gap (like Heat’s Mach5). Same goes for the rear valance / fascia…I think it looks much cleaner if you eliminate the gap(s). It’s way more work, but it looks so much cleaner…

Check this out: I wonder if it is better aerodynamically, because the type II airdam slopes up towards the front...

Hey Guys, I had no idea that I'd get this much attention. Okay, I'll come clean now about what the heck they mean, hehe. "HI NRZ": I came up with this idea from "HI NRG" (=high energy). Also, it was at that time when Dodge Neons had the advert campaign going where their slogan was "Hi" (because ??)....and I thought that was kind of cute. So, I was going to use "HI NRGZ" but then I thought that looked ugly, so I changed my mind to "HI NRZ" (substituted the "G" for a "Z") thinking people would get it...NOT! So then I got a chance to change it again. Since Kurzals already has the Oregon plate "Turbo Z" I couldn't use that one. "TURBO ZX" or "ZX TURBO" wouldnt fit since Oregon only allows six digits (and a space or hyphen) and it was kind of too close to John's. I wanted "S130 ZXT" but that wouldn't fit either! I settled for "S130 ZT" since S130=chasis code for a 280ZX, and Z (because it is a Z, or more specifically a ZX, and "T" since it is turbo). Whew! All this and I'm probably going to go with SP plates eventually. ...I hope this made sense...

Well, my "HI NRZ" plates were getting old...I got sick of being asked what it meant...so I ordered a new set (once you order vanity plates in Oregon, you can change them anytime you want, for the next two years, for a mere $20 extra). However, it takes about 2-3 months to manufacture). For some reason, they quit using the holographic state of Oregon seals...I hope I don't get pulled over again and the popo thinking I made them. Let me know what you think...I'll probably go with some SP (special purpose) plates next time around since you only have to register once (~$20) and no DEQ. Cheers, -hughdogz

I don't think anyone has mentioned this one yet, but sometimes people see a 280Z or a 280ZX and say "hey, that's a nice Z28" *smacks forehead*. Challenger knows what I'm taking about. The other day, I see this Z32 around my neighborhood...I see him a second time at the 7-Eleven, and the guy is putting another sticker on his 1/4 window. I tell the guy I like his Z (n/a) and he says "I've had lots of these, and used to have a twin turbo with big turbos...it used to eat Vipers all day long!" (Which I don't doubt) But then, he goes on to say "this one only weighs 1600 pounds" I didn't have the heart to correct him and say more like 3600 pounds...maybe he meant 1600 kilograms, hehe...

My 260Z had a casualty yesterday. MY DOG ATE MY Mirror! I can bring my dog to work with me, but when there are meetings, I have to stick him in my car (I leave the windows halfway down so he can breathe but not jump out). When I returned to get him I noticed that the glass was all broken on my side view mirror. Then I noticed that there were chew marks on the housing. Damn Beast broke 1/4" thick glass with his teeth!

I'm thinking of going with a fuel rail blank and AN fittings to solve any hose heat issues (like Alan Osborn did on the Bonneville S130). If anyone asks what it is, I'll say it is staged direct fuel injection. He suggested that I also plug the "bypass" hole (in the block at the head gasket interface) that allows the coolant to travel directly from the water pump outlet into the head. The caveat is that the lower radiator hose may collapse due to negative pressue this might cause. I think TonyD mentioned something about this too... For the return, I was thinking of going into the upper thermostat housing. He went directly into the radiator inlet.

Hi Garvice, I'm thinking of swapping over to a Z32 CAS like Ron has installed on Clint Barnt's n/a L28. It is much more compact and clean-looking in my opinion. I believe I can use a Z32 CAS with my L28ET if I flip the disk over (L-series CAS' spin CCW, while VG's spin clockwise) to use the leading edges of the slits (which are always 60 degrees separation) and drill a sync hole. Ron would know more for sure... As Paul mentioned, it may be in the way the Wolf is configured..."magicially" it can use the slit widths to determine "sync" and "reference" (with the help of the black-box?).

You can buy an actual speed sensor from Garrett! http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/Accessories_continue_speed_sensor.html Cheers (and happy boosting), -hughdogz

To add to BRAAP's Generous posts... You can probably do it...it seems to depend on the length of the fuel rail past the #1 injector: "Newer style" Thermostat Housing: ('82 ZXT) "240Z style" thermostat housing: Hope this helps...

I may be incorrect, but I'm not sure that the stock ECU knows how much boost you're running, it just goes by the airflow meter (i.e. no map sensor). There is a "boost gage sender". If I remember correctly, it is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. All it does is send a signal to the stock boost gage. I disconnected it when I installed a more accurate boost gage (the stock gage no longer worked) and the ECU didn't change the way the engine performed... Any pics of what you're describing?

How (and how often) you dress the tire is a factor that hasn't been mentioned yet... Ever notice the brown gunky film that appears on tires after awhile? It is supposed to be there since that is how the rubber is protecting itself. I know tires look a lot nicer when you rub it off buffing with tire shine. It could actually be worse for the tire's life if you simply remove it, without properly re-protecting it... http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?faqCat=Wheels%20and%20Tires&faqQuestionID=59&section=_59#_59

Nice Job Warren!! I can't believe how far you've taken your S130. It doesn't seem that long ago when you first bought it. Someday I'll move out of the #106 place in the timeslips database (hopefully up, hehe)

Your SU was leaking out of the air filter box? The most likely thing that happened is the float was stuck, not closing the needle valve. In case this happens, there is a barb & hose (on the float chamber lid) that directs the overflow into the airbox, so that it will be sucked into the engine instead of dripping on the hot exhaust manifold, causing a fire.

A broken T/C rod? It is probably not, since that would be pretty obvious. Do your front calipers have both the upper and lower retaining shims for the pads?

Is your choke cable on? Make sure that with the choke off, the jet nozzles are seated "up" against the body. If they're stuck in the "down" position, you'll be really rich. Unless there is a problem with the float (gross mixture adjustment), you can adjust the mixture with the mixture screw (fine mixture adjustment). It is that big threaded "ring" below the body (above the jet nozzle) that has one big and one little bump on the circumference. Stock setting is 3.5 turns "out" (clockwise looking from the top). By using the bump on the ring, count how many turns "in" it takes until they stop, so that you know where you started from. If yours are out much more than 3.5 turns, it is probably why you're running rich. The knobs are pretty sensitive, even 1/8 of a turn can make a substantial difference on the mixture. If you're still super rich after running at 3->3.5 turns, look at an improperly adjusted choke, float, needle, (or maybe) not enough oil in the damper reservoir. If you can, get the "Just SU's" video from Ztherapy. It explains almost everything you need to know about SU's. Hope this helped...