hughdogz

^^^ Olderthanme, you got so caught up in camping stuff, you forgot to mention your fencing hobby. Here are my "hobbies" in descending order: 1) Z-cars (of course) 2) Hanging out with my Akita dog 3) CAD modeling and Simulation (a spinoff from my career) 4) Playing guitar 5) Artifacting (well, I don't do this anymore since it has been illegal in Oregon for many years now) 6) Getting drunk and hanging out in bars, etc. #6 used to be my #1 a while back, but I quit drinking completely...the money saved really helps the new #1 hobby!

Hey Justin, have you seen this ad yet in autoparts? http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/519628339.html Hopefully it is not too rusty...he says it is basically all there and even has a good interior and body panels!

The ID on mine measures ~9/16" so it is probably 3/8"-18 NPT. I think the question is really why you would need much bigger than -6AN? I think -8AN is overkill...there are plenty of high HP Z's on here are using -6 for fuel with no starvation problems. This post will probably get tool sheded since it is basically a NPT tap size question: http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/I_Tap&DieChart.pdf HTH -hughdogz

Finally got the coil bracket installed. Sorry for the poor photo quality (again). ^^ Notice I had to cut a rectagular hole in the bracket to retain the CHTS. I'm also going to have to relocate the knock sensor since it interferes with coil #4 as well as the bracket. Maybe lower down the block?? -hughdogz

Thanks for the props Gabe! Yeah, quite a bit of polishing went into it (not to mention sanding and wet-sanding!) I was considering a cerma-chrome coating when I first embarked on this endeavor but I'm not so sure now. You can see blemishes where the filler aluminum is shinier than the stock alloy. Also, there is slight pitting in some of the welds from the trapped gasses because my welding skills aren't where they should be. I thought a coating would hide these and cut down on the heat transfer a little bit. I'm not sure you can polish the coating to a shine, but then again with a coating it will be one less thing to polish...hmm... I don't know why I'm still so hung up on bling...Hybridz is slowly curing me of that ailment! Eventually I'll be making a custom one so I think my effort and $$ will be better spent somewhere else for now. I still don't get it why some are saying that webbing and heat shields are so important. What are we worried about heating up? The manifold itself so it becomes an "interheater"? ...I can sort of see this as a problem at idle with stagnant air heating up. Heating the fuel in the rail? ...this might be a problem since I dead-headed my feed line. I know the vacuum hoses are a given problem where I have mine now. It seems to me that a webbed manifold (without a heat shield) would add to the heat problem since there is more area for the radiant heat energy to transfer to, and it would trap more heat from the natural convection after the engine is turned off (or at idle). I must be missing something obvious. It would be great to design an intake manifold with a "two-chamber" charge box like some others are already doing. Not sure why it is so much better than a single chamber (with volume ~1.5x the engine displacement). Something about converting the dynamic pressure to static pressure more efficiently?? Anyhoo, I want to thank everyone for their contributions to my post!

Nice job Mopar!! It looks like you took your time.

Right on! It started up just fine yesterday. I had to adjust the idle screw two turns higher and lower my fuel pressure a tiny bit. I'll let you know how it goes. No worries on a threadjack(?) I love seeing other before / after pics too. Especially the fully-custom stuff!!

Alright, I finally admit that I bought one of these little boxes that (already) has a way of sucking up my time like a black hole... I might be posting here with questions soon. Clicky for pics on my project page

I've been working on creating the sub-harnesses for the Wolf and I want to see if I can get the hardware installed in the next two weeks...we'll see about that. Here is the "Ron Tyler style" power supply panel: A little closer: Outside: New fuel rail and injector harness: Coil harness: Here is most of the system: I also have an electronic boost controller (not shown). The next few weeks will be REALLY challenging, so I hope I don't get stuck or discouraged (or worse yet, blow something up). Later, -Hugh

Damn Yasin! Do you want to trade manifolds?! (j/k...I know it's your "baby"...I think yours is freaking awesome Man! ) I figure if the silicone hoses collapse under vacuum after a spirited run I'll go with steel braided A/N. If that doesn't help I'll see what happens after I install a ceramic coated turbine, downpipe and exhaust manifold. If that doesn't work, I'll get a tubine wrap like Timz. If I still have the problem I guess I'm going to have to retap the holes or go to a vacuum distribution block. I really wanted to design and build a new one from scratch like you and the other advanced members have done (or are doing). I just need more skill, knowledge, and $$$. Once I get the rest of the systems upgraded I'll come full circle and work on a new manifold.

I haven't found a good plug yet for the Weber TB, so I hope old "Honest Abe" from 1964 doesn't mind holding back ~12 pounds of boost!! Check it out...I also relocated my heater hose so I can attach a coil mount bracket. (the stock one runs across the top of the oil filter) I can't wait to get rid of this TPS ever since I lost the cover. Doh!

Aw shucks you guys are going to make me cry! The strut tower brace? I got them at the MSA show two years ago (I saved on shipping that way!) You can still get them: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC04 I got a pretty good deal on Suspension Techniques sway bars from shox.com.

[Edit: Moved more pics over to my project page] http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=835735&postcount=11

Hey, I appreciate that Mopar. Actually, it's a totally different one...from a 1975 N42. We like this one since it has minimal bosses and no EGR. It has been a Saga...I have the details on my project page. The stock turbo would have been even more work to modify since it has so many fittings not to mention the webbing you mentioned. Basically sand down the cast surface, cut off the bosses, grind them down. Then I filled in all the leftover holes with a MIG welder I converted to a ghetto spool gun. Grind, polish, lather, rinse, repeat until it looks like it does today. Also, I finally eliminated the stock turbo bypass valve completely. Before I had my recirculating HKS BOV working without disabling the stock one (mainly because I didn't know how to disable it without a lot of work). If it ever stops raining, I'll be able to test how it really turned out. Oh well...on to the next project...Wolf3D!

Hey thanks e_racer! I hope it was worth all the effort and it won't cause me headaches down the road. I have seven fittings tapped on the underside so I hope the hoses can take the heat! I swear this is one of the last times I choose form over function, lol! I was able to gasket match to the Weber TB (it took about 1/8" around) and I smoothed out the bumps in the opening (from the air regulator bypass bosses). Also BRAAP recommended that I radius the #1 intake runner. And it is so much easier to access the exhaust manifold bolts now! Mopar69, if you still want the ugly stock turbo manifold I'll deliver it in person for one meelioon dollars! (in fact, I'd give you both for that much )

Before: After:

Good question. I'm about to find out for myself as I'm just finishing up the swap. [Edit: If it does end up being a problem, I'll get a turbine heat jacket like Timz has. Ceramic coating the exhaust manifold should help cut down the heat too.]

I'm getting really tired of the Oregon rain...especially this year. Cool rig though! All you need now is a snorkel and you'll be set.

Right on..thanks! It looks like you might have done a shaved fender mirror mod too?

^^^ that has to be one of the coolest S130's i've seen! Any more pics of the front body piece?

I agree, it depends on what you're trying to do. I thought you were after software that could do simulations of mechanisms, not just create a series of images. As far as simulation software goes, 2D working model is about as simple and easy as it gets.

Like this one? http://www.google.com/url?sa=L&ai=BCt9qwqpoR_7QIaeYpwSfovGvAfjK-xLI_f3RAYSQlscIsMwLCAAQARgBMAE4AFCCqfzY-f____8BYMmG-4vMpNQZyAEB2QO0XpcOTXs4UOADCA&q=http://workingmodel.design-simulation.com/WM2D/index.php&usg=AFQjCNFuNom9jMwkCjeUuR8O9cKuPNd3yA It looks like they have a time-bombed evaluation copy and you don't need a $2K+ workstation either.

Just messin' with ya! This is probably already covered in the Turbo FAQ sticky but I'll give you my opinoin here. Most of the IC's from the J-Y's are too small. For example I've heard the Volvo, Starion, etc. IC's are too small for the 2.8L. Once exception might be the Porsche 944 IC but still it is still pretty small. If you can get a hold of an Isuzu NPR IC (either a large or small unit) you should be fine. Also on Ebay, you can buy a decent Chinese knockoff for ~$150 so why even mess with a used IC unless it is from a big diesel engine? Just my $0.02. good luck!

Well that is B.S. !! They even watermarked the pics from tuner mag or turbo mag of Austin's ride like it was their own. Austin had better get a free hood out of this. ;P

This should be good for 150 HP, so you would need two of them.