hughdogz

D'oh Alexideways, you're totally right on (my mistake)! I was thinking last night...wait a minute...does this mean they put a 4-cylinder in a Z?! That doesn't sound right!!

Wha?? You don't remember me visiting you one day and I said the same thing as Justin brought up..."Paul, I'm spending too much of my time on Hybrid...what's up with that...how do you deal with it??" And then you make some funny remark like "HA" for Hybridz Anonymous? You know, like "AA" for Alcoholics Anonymous? It cracked me up! Oh well...I guess I can start the group if Justin wants to join. It looks like you're fine with your "latest service pack updates" LOL!

I remember asking BRAAP about this and he didn't know of any local HA support groups! It's true enough for me...I'm guilty.

Hi MJ, in general Nissan has treated the American market differently than the "rest of the world" market. I think "Datsun" was only used here in the USDM from '58-'83. In the rest of the world, the S130 is dubbed the "280Z" not the 280ZX. In Europe, there never was a S30 280Z, it was still called the 260Z from '74 up to '78 I believe...have you also noticed that in Europe, most of the S130's are 2+2's (or 2by2) it is really wierd. So along those lines, due to probably emissions and crash protection restrictions that the US federal government allowed for imports, the JDM had a lot more engine (and body) configurations for the Z31 than we had here in the states. I don't know why my magazine calls it the "2000ZR" instead of the 200ZR, but the ZR was available with an SR20DET engine...I thought there were other engine configurations for the Z31 besides the SR20 and VG... The reason that in Japan they made a lot of 2 litre engines is for tax purposes. As long as the engine displacement stayed at 2L or below, either the manufacturer or the consumer didn't have to pay a high "luxury tax" like they would for a bigger displacement engine. That is why you see an L20ET engine once in awhile instead of an L28ET.

I'm still not finished with the easy part of the install, but I've made some progress. I want to be sure everything is hooked up correctly before I start securing all the wiring, so a lot of it is still loose or not connected yet. I also finished modifying the trigger optical wheel in the distributor and connecting it. I haven't removed the stock FI harness, coil and igniter yet, but I installed a new fuel rail, harness and injectors: It looks like it has a Mohawk now! Other side: CHTS: Electronic Boost Controller: Power breaker and ground block: What a mess!! I can tuck the wiring up out of the way later...I'm not sure I'd do it this way again. Where the Wolf connects behind the glovebox (another mess, I could have done better with a lot less connectors, LOL!: The Wolf fits in the glovebox nicely: Sensor and controller wiring for the driver side. I still haven't figured out how to wire up the tach and adapter yet. I'll have plenty of room to mount another computer once the stock ECU is out of the way : I may have to rethink the way I did this...D'oh! It's always something... I still have a long way to go. Of course I could have done a lot better job knowing what I know now...but as long as it works and it's safe, then I'm happy. If anyone sees anything unsafe, please PM me and let me know... Thanks for looking!

I suppose the "soft glass" idea is not impossible, I see Jeeps all the time with thick vinyl rear side windows on their soft tops. Don't the early Miatas have a vinyl rear window (I don't think they're glass). Even then it may only last a few years in the elements without deteriorating... As far as I can tell, the OEM glass has curvature in only one direction. So maybe you can borrow one and "mold" a plexiglass one from it if you can find a big enough oven (do you know anyone that works at a pizza joint?) I'm not sure if you can heat and bend Lexan as easily...

Okay, now you've done it! You're just begging for it, lol. Hey milesz, I know where you're coming from because I'm going down the same road of upgrading. It's taken me a well over a year of "searching" here to find "the answer" and there isn't one. No one can really tell you what the best upgrades are for your particular situation since we all have different goals, starting points, skills, access to equipment, time and $$$. Like 510Six said, what are your goals? And also keep in mind that once you buy a component, you're kind of stuck with it. If you use 440 CC injectors, there you go...that pretty much limits as much HP as you can reliably make (maybe around 300-400 HP). I think the absolute best way is to do it in STAGES, so that you can enjoy and appreciate each upgrade, learn as you go while not breaking the bank! There is a post that was recently tool-shedded that has a lot of good info about where and how to start a turbo build and hopefully finish! (if there is such a thing). Since you've already searched, you should be familiar with that one! The only "bolt-on" I know of is an HKS IC setup from MSA, but it is expensive IMO and IC core may be too small for you HP goals. So I guess the answer is NO for the most part...there are no "eazy to install" bolt-ons (especially cheap ones ). It is unfortunate, but there is almost no forced induction aftermarket support for an L28ET like there is for an SR20 or Supra or Mustang. Do you have a "bone-stock" Turbo engine? (you never mentioned what you've done so far but I remember your posts about installing one) What I would recommend is the way I ended up doing the upgrades: 1) Manual boost controller. This way you can run 2-4 psi more boost and all you have to do is plumb in a little valve. Hallman's are good, or you can make the wastegate actuator preload adjustable by threading the rod. You also need to install a boost gage to know where you're at. This might add 20-30 HP...and in a light car, it is a really noticeable difference 2) Intercooler and bypass valve. This is where it can expensive and takes a great deal more planning. After this, you can really crank up the boost still using the stock EFI. 3) Downpipe. Get rid of the stock cast iron DP and use smooth mandrel bends. There is a thread on here to get a DP flange for the stock turbo. Any exhaust shop can do welding... makes for faster spoolup, increases max flow, etc. 4) Upgrade from the stock EFI. From what I've seen and read, this is the truth. You can't trick the OEM computer (or adjust the fuel pressure) enough to control the bigger the injectors properly. You might be supplying enough fuel at high load, but maybe you'll supply too much at low load. Plus at a higher HP, it is more crucial that you have precise control over the fuel and spark timing. I don't think there are many Z's out there that run a bigger turbo using the stock EFI. One exception I know of is this guy: It is incredible what he did, but but I don't think it was "bolt-on" either 5) Headwork to flow better. The stock head is pretty restrictive. 6) Bigger turbo and injectors. The stock turbo is already pretty good to maybe 250+ HP, but runs out of steam at ~12 psi. You could also add a cam, nitrous, methanol injection, forged pistons, steel head gasket, exhaust bypass, yada, yada. But going for it all at once I think is really tricky! Even with the stock turbo @ 12psi and an IC, it was almost scary driving my car. I can't imagine what it will be like if I get to 300 or even 400 HP. I hope this helped (and I hope it didn't sound like I was preaching or anything, just my opinions mostly). I used to think "hey I'll just buy a bunch of expensive parts and my car will go fast, what do I buy?" but I couldn't be further from the truth. I still need to search and learn more! lol. BTW, are you the same Miles from AZ that knows Ron and Max?? Good luck Man!

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but I'd go with a new (used) window for sure. Unless you create a lot of positive pressure inside the cabin, those are going to flap and vibrate so much at speed no matter how hard you stretch it... I've had to tape up a broken window before with visqueen(sp?) and duct tape. It would flap like mad unless I closed all the windows and cranked the fan on high. It was a brand-new car so it was sealed nice and tight and when you'd turn the control to recirculate instead of fresh, you'd the the insanely loud flapping back. I didn't want to say it, but I think that "window-condoms" are a no-no...

I have a "Z-file" magazine from Japan that has the history from the Fairlady on up... I can't read Japanese, but from what I can tell: -9/83 the Z31 entered the market with a 300ZX and 2000ZG (2l or 3l SOHC V6) -1985 came the RB20DET and the 2 seater 2000ZR-I and 2000ZR-II with a T-bar roof -1986->1988 was the 300ZR or 300ZX (2l or 3l DOHC V6 with a VG30DE(?)) -and somewhere in there is a VG30ET I could be totally wrong but it looks like only 1985?! Man! We got left out here in the States for the 3rd gen.

Indulge us Cygnus!! ...and please don't say you've trained attack mice!

That is too cool Cygnus! On my 260, I have a metal push-button "start" where the ignition lock used to be. It is hooked up to an ignition coil. If you think it is a push-button start, you'll get a real nice shock...especially if you're touching something else metal!!

Hi Ron, If you post up a drawing (or sketch) of the bracket and the loading conditions, I can create a solid model and run it through an ANSYS FEA solver I have here at work. ...if you're interested I can vary the thickness and give you the results respectively. Cheers, -Hugh

...oooooohhhh you are playing with fire there MJ!! You must know by now these admins don't mess around. And to be honest, it really doesn't matter what *you think* It is thier site and they will run it as they see best... And what happened to NWS or NSFW?? I should have known from title...duh:icon56:

Yep. Then you should locate an OEM "ZXR" valve cover and you'll be set!!

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/533777055.html I'd buy it but I don't have room (or time) for a 5th zcar.

Sweet! I can't wait to see it in person Rob!! Thanks for coming by Saturday and showing me the pics. [Edit: Hey, this is a good start for an S130 project page (nudge, nudge)]

Hi Bo, Do you think the spark may somehow be blowing out? You mentioned you're using NGK BPRES7 gapped at 0.030". You probably have a good reason for running these, but why not the BPR6ES-11's? Haynes says 0.039-0.043" gap, but NGK says 0.044"... I may be totally wrong about what plug we should be running with LS1 or Denso coils, but I'm curious why you're running a colder plug at a smaller gap than stock... -hughdogz

Hi MJ, I also have an S30 with the rear bumper removed (early 260). I chose to leave the holes where the bumper dampers were going through. I figure it would allow trapped air to esacape, reducing drag. However, since the Gas tank is blocking a lot of the "scoop" I don't think it is a big a deal on the S30. With my S130, it is a bigger problem since with an MSA bumper cover, it is like a HUGE scoop and I'm sure it creates some drag. I'm thinking about cutting vent holes in it! HTH (and not too late)

"Dude, I can fix it. My dad is a TV repairman and he's got this ultimate set of tools!" Sorry, but that quote from Fast Times was all I could think when I saw those pics (I hope I didn't offend you lowrider) Damn! Maybe it isn't totally totaled. Were you able to drive it home? If so did it drive straight? If the frame isn't tweaked too bad it may still be salvageable. I'm glad you're still in one piece Man! You have my condolences.

Not really a mod but some advice learned the hard way... If at all possible, resist the temptation to impulse buy expensive parts or parts that "look like" they will work. There should be a 72 hour "cool-down" period when considering purchases over ~$50. I'm still in the learning process.

^^^ You are evil Ron.

I think that the QUALITY of the wire is just as important, if not more than wire seperation. A friend of mine recently bought a new set of Taylor wires and now his engine dies unexpectedly at idle and will even backfire and sputter at high RPMs. Even though they are seperated by nearly an inch (with minimal crossings) it seems that they still bleed a ton of EMI. While at idle, he touched the boot at the coil to ensure it was properly seated and he got a REAL NICE shock!! I would think that the insulation should have prevented this. I was wondering if there is an easy / inexpensive way to test the amount of EMI? I haven't seen a Gauss or Tesla meter at the local parts store...

Not quite my style for either form or function. But, I'm sure there are others that would really like it. I have limo tint on my 1/4's and they still have saved me a time or two from making a stupid highway lane change, even at night. I wonder how it would look in combination with a Pantera-style hatch? Now that would be badass! [Edit: Maybe that's why the Testarossas have the big side view mirrors that go way out to see around the blind spot??]

No kidding?! Ouch. I'm curious if it snapped at one of the sockets or just the shaft...not that it matters I guess. I bet the Snap-On will not snap-off.

^^^ Good call Chemicalblue. Is this the one? #10 double hex