hughdogz

Here's my 280ZX-T. I've owned it since 2002 (however, I've owned z-cars since 1998). The previous owner had already installed the aero kit, new paint and 17" rims in addition to the custom diamond tuck interior. I was really impressed (and thankful) that he did all the bodywork and interior himself. I think I got a really good deal for $4750!! Now for the mechanicals, the only upgrades on the car when I bought it was the KYB GR2 struts. I've done a lot to it since then, and I'll update the thread soon. Over the years, I've been amassing various performance parts, TOOLS, experience and knowledge (not to mention a couple more z's ). I think that now my skill level and confidence is just high enough to start tackling some semi-serious projects that I've been planning and researching for years... I think that the bretheren here at Hybridz (and the incredible z's at the MSA shows) have probably been the most helpful and inspirational to get me going on building-up a high-performance Z...thanks everyone for that.

I got mine at the local Nissan parts department for $38...actually $18 with the "Z-club discount". Make sure it is for an L28ET. I think Tony D mentions this in a different thread too.

I didn't know CNC machines had spell checkers! (just kidding...I think the lettering looks good)

Thanks for the vote of confidence!! I knew I could count on you guys. I appreciate the comments about ducting and sealing. I'm definately going to seal it up tight. I can't believe the IC is finally being installed after YEARS of it just sitting in the garage!

I'm fabbing up the tubes for the IC on my 280ZX. Now that I have it in place I'm wondering if the radiator's air flow is going to suffer considerably. The plan is to use 2.25" aluminized tubing. 4.5" radius mandrel u-bends routing through the headlight buckets using the factory holes and having to cut through the headlight brackets... It is hard to get a pic of this, but there is 2" between the IC and radiator, 2" of gap above the IC and 4" below. I'm hoping no one sees any glaring problems before I start cutting... Thanks for looking! Fitting the intake around the radiator was close, but getting the 3" intake pipe around the IC (on the other side of the radiator core support) will be a bigger challenge.

M10x1.25 for the nuts that bolt the turbo to the exhaust manifold on both of my stock manifolds...that is wierd the M10x1.25 isn't fitting for you.

Hey everyone, you guys wanted to see some more "roughed-in" pictures? Paul was generous enough to show me how to do this today...I had the same questions and luckily I don't live too far from Rusch Motorsports! He did all the grinding work for cylinder #1 (although he saved the finer abrasives work for me). We didn't mess with the intake, since the ROI is negligible compared to the exhaust and combustion chamber. I'll do my best to duplicate his work for the rest of the cylinders. This is a P90 head... Shrouded and bulge in the bowl (notice the hump of material around the depressed valve guide): Unshrouded & smooth bowl: There is also some work in blending the floor transition, but I'd have to cut my head apart to show you that. I can start a new thread documenting the steps, etc. Also, I would like to thank Paul again for his generosity, he is a great guy! Here I go, there's no turning back now!

ZF1-J I'm really surprised you came up with that one Veritech-Z!!

You're absolutely right Tony D, now why didn't that dawn on me... Agreed. I didn't consider that rattling (or key working) could happen if the fit isn't tight enough. Who knows, I might get a inkling to bounce the rev limiter off 7->7.5k if I ever get an EMS installed...and I sure don't want to ruin components (or worse) after all that work and tuning time. I'm really liking 6k now that I've chased out that EFI Gremlin!! So 3-8 tenths of a thousandth (maybe tolerate a tiny bit more) and some green loctite... Your mechanical wisdom is always appreciated!

Thanks for that input Katman! I don't feel so noob-like now. With 20 damper install experience that sheds some bright light on my situation... I'm going to have to convince them of this when I call them back AGAIN tomorrow (that the L-Series don't use a press fit, rather they use more of a tight slip-fit). I wish I could get my hands on some real OEM damper specs!! According to my calculations above, even if you size it as a press fit (which it shouldn't be) at LMC, their size is still a tiny bit small for that application. For a slip fit, it is impossible.

Sounds like the infamous "loses power @ ~3k RPM" or "won't go above XXXX RPM (I'm surprised this hasn't been thrown into the Toolshed yet ) I just cured this same problem today...clean the TPS, AFM and ECU connectors. In my case it turned out to be the ECU connections. I never thought the ECU connections would get funky since it is inside the cabin, but sure enough, there was some oily residue sitting at the bottom of the connector gunking up the lower two leads of the big connector block. To clean the connectors, if they are really green and corroded, you may have to use ~1200 grit sandpaper to clean them up (this wasn't necessary on the ECU leads). Then use some electronics cleaner (I used Berryman's...smells a lot like ether) then blow it out with some compressed air. Finally, push the connector on and off several times to help ensure you get a good connection before the final seating. If you still think it might be fuel, you can temporarily plumb and mount a pressure gage to your windshield and go drive it to see if you're losing pressure somehow...mine went up to ~50 psi at WOT, but that is for an L28ET.

Cygnus, you should be proud of your skills if you were able to model that in about an hour! I've been spending too much time on simulation rather than modeling. Since yours looks so much better than mine, I had to add some "bling factor" to make up for it!! I love the new cartoon rendering in Inventor!!

Good call Ron. In an effort to bring this thread back towards the neutral direction, here is something that I think the Chinese did really well: The maglev to the Pudong airport. It reaches a top speed of 431 KPH (268 MPH) It has banked corners so no lateral G-forces can be felt. It takes about seven minutes to travel 30 km (19 mile) track! We're now laying down our fourth light rail line and second electric street car line in Portland...I wonder if (and when) we'll have to get a maglev??

Not to be-little the thread, but aren't the first and 3rd more like India or Malasia or something? I've been to Shangahi twice, and it is AMAZING how many skyscrapers are going up around there...instead of metal scaffolding, they use bamboo. Instead of concrete pumpers, they have workers climb the scaffolding like hundreds of little ants with gallon buckets!! The pic with the guy and the cellophane just makes me want to shake my head for sure!

Hey thanks for that info Chino 240Z. The instructions that came with the powerforce only had instructions for domestic engines too. I found it interesting to note that in the BHJ instructions, they say to measure the crank snout and hone the bore of the damper to within 0.001/0.0015" smaller than the crank snout. I wish the powerforce instructions would say this and also list the Nissan OEM specs for the damper ID, keyway width, height and crank snout OD. Their instructions and website only deals with domestic specs... What are the Nissan OEM specs? Does anyone know if the measurements I took are correct? The FSM doesn't list them... 0.001/0.015" corresponds to 0.0254/0.0381 mm. I would think that would make the damper spec 34.97 mm + 0.00 / -0.013. To be within tolerance would make the smallest ID 34.96mm, which is about half a thousandth BIGGER than their 34.95 mm nominal. I hope I don't have to explain this to powerforce again today...yesterday they kept saying that my damper bore is within tolerance. I tried to explain that maybe they have their nominal wrong, but tolerance right. They said their nominal is 34.95mm not 34.97...hmm... I'm gonna call them back right now...hopefully they will either give me my damper back or give me a new one (like they said they would do) since mine is slightly boogered up from my botched install...argh!! If I'm really nice, maybe they'll let me upgrade to the 90000 series

Here is my dog Maku (Maku = Kuma transposed, Kuma = big bear in Japanese). He is an American Akita (versus a Japanese Akita). I rescued him from a shelter in Longview, WA about three years ago. He is 130 pounds and very mellow most of the time (believe it or not) and furry as hell. Also, he just LOVES his 260Z:

Just what ZManco described above...same thing as bleeding it on the car, only you bleed it on a workbench with a vise, etc. Make sure you doen't get any air cracking the bleeders on the side of the m/c under pressure. I had the same problem you're describing when I accidently let my reservoir run dry when bleeding...bleeding the master cured it. You did make sure you have the hole in the adjuster on the threaded rod for the new m/c at roughly the same distance from the mounting flange on the old m/c?

I think what you're describing is that the needle valve fell out. What I think may be happening is that the fuel is pumping into the bowl but the float won't close the needle valve. Then you could get fuel spraying out of the top of the float chamber through the barbed fitting like you're describing... Check the needle valve and see if it will still seal when closed. If not, get a new one from Ztherepy in Salem. If it still works, you may have to adjust the float. If it is not contacting the needle perpendicular, it may not close all the way. To adjust the float, bend the mounting tab so there is ~3/8 inch space between the top of the float and the cover (...I'm not 100% on the 3/8") ensuring they remain as parallel as possible. This is also how you roughly adjust the mixture (the fine mixture adjust ment is the knob below the jet nozzle). Also, it might be a good idea to attach a hose to the barbed fitting, then into a container to catch any gas spillage while you're testing... Did this all the sudden start happening? Maybe the return line is somehow plugged or kinked? -HTH

Great find Austin! It is so new, you don't even have to change the oil for another 4600 miles...lol (j/k)

Aha! It isn't just me, or mine was already "correct". I also noticed the key BARELY fits in the damper keyway. Did you get a chance to take measurements, or just hand comparison? So it sounds to me like the "tricks" are to chamfer the keyway entrance a bit, hone the bore, heat and an installer. Thanks for the tips and confirmation Russell, I really appreciate it man.

It sounds like a good company you work for if they also help pay for school and let you surf Hybridz from time to time. If you still decide to leave, you might be able to find quite a few leads in the SW discussion forums... I know what you mean about enjoying your job is pretty much top priority. I'll see if I can whip out another model tonight so my CAD skills don't get too rusty-dusty!!