hughdogz

I finally decided to dead-head my fuel rail. The fuel line used to run across the front of the valve cover. I thought it would clean up the apprearance especially with the IC pipe running below it now. Eventually, I'll cut the fuel inlet line below the firewall, and run AN line alongside the return up to the AFPR. This was easier for now. $5.00 cap: I used a 5/16" compression fitting to 1/4" NPT. Then 1/4" NPT to -6AN. I really should hide those ugly brass fittings... Oh yeah, I like the looks of the 40 micron Russel filter better than the space-aged barbed-style K&N that I had on before!

LOL! That has to be one of the funniest dreams I've heard of. I can't believe you can remember so much detail. You should really consider logging off Hybridz before falling asleep! You know how TV can enter your dreams if you fall asleep on the couch...

Hey Nigel, I'm running the stock setup. The only mods to speak of is a CAI and a manual boost controller (stock J-pipe, no intercooler) Without the boost controller, my boost was only 5psi at the intake manifold. The highest EGT I remember seeing is ~1400 F. Cranked up the boost, and I still only get ~1400 F, even with the safety pop valve releasing...so that must be at around 9psi (I was more concerned at looking at the EGT gage than the boost gage). I should have the IC done by next week and hope to be boosting in the 10-11psi range... [Edit: I forgot to mention that I have the EGT probe tapped into the #6 runner, just a few inches from the head. I figured that since #5 & 6 run the hottest, this would be the best place to take readings. Next time, I'm tapping in the collector. See pics in the thread about EGT problems]

Oh man! That sucks. I know how much you like that Z Paul. I hope there's enough insurance $$ left over to swap in the 4.5 litre from the poor Infiniti. This has to be a sign from the Z Gods...

Here are my Wheels: They are 17 x 7.5 with 1.25" spacers for zero offset. I suppose that makes them about +30 offset. A mystery wheel to me since they were already on the car from the P.O. Can someone identify them? I've seen seen a few of them rolling around on Hondas, but never on a Z. I want some 17 x 8.5" wide Rota RB's in hyper black!! What do you guys think? Ditch these in favor of the RB's?

I took a measurement from the end of the crank snout to the tip of the key, and it is 1/4". I found that a 1/4" trimmed zip tie works perfect for checking this. As for the specs, I think you both are right. Nissan OEM dampers have a slip fit, while aftermarket and Nissan competition want more of a press fit since they will see more load. 0.001"-0.015" interference fit is what I've been told is recommended along with some green locktite. Once installed (successfully) the first thing to go seems to be the elastomer material. It is a good idea to mark the inner and outer halves with an indentation so you'll know if they start moving relative to each other. Most of this info I'm regurgitating is from trustworthy sources here on Hybridz. HTH!

You must mean driver side core support...but for that you'd need an IC with inlet and outlet on the same side, right? The one you show has them on different sides. First, figure out the best way to route the IC plumbing then choose the IC conifiguration based on that and the turbo size. Also, you're not looking hard enough because there are cheap ebay IC's with 2.5" inlet / outlet. There are a million different ways you can route the IC and you can be creative and not have to cut any metal at all if you want by using stock holes or going under the engine or frame. If you do a search you'll see the different ways of how the members have done theirs... Have you read Corky Bell's how-to turbo book yet? It will answer 99% of your questions and is a must-read if you plan on being serious about upgrading your turbo system. Hope this helped...

Unless I'm wrong, they should fit a 280ZX. I'm also running the Tokico setup, and these really thick RCA spacers from Techno toy (not sure that matters). I have 8.5" width, 17" rims that use a spacer for zero offset. They are still 1.25" inside the fenders. I have 4.25" backspacing now and the RB's would have 4" backspace (9.5"/2 -19mm). How far they stick out from the hub would be 5.5" (9.5"/2 +19mm) which would be 1.25" more than what I have now and that should work perfect. I'm tempted to go with the 8.5" RB's because I know they'll fit and are available now...but just looking at my ZX, the rims could come out another inch or so...

I ended up using electrical tape, then a huge pair of bolt cutters to flatten the hose enough so cutting dikes make a clean cut.

It shouldn't matter much as long as the transition isn't too abrupt. I think the ideal is no more than 20 degrees taper. There are silicone elbow reducers that have a gradual taper that would work great if you plan to use the holes in the radiator support.

[Edit: 8/19/2007] More progress on the IC tubes... Finished welding and grinding the 45. Here is where I want to place the BOV mounting flange. Another shot: where the BOV is going to live: I had to grind away at the flange because it was already welded from a different install (directly on to the pipe...grrr). Then I used a tube similar to the big one to offset it from the intake tube: I'm still learning how to weld...notice the big HAZ (head affected zone) on the flange...and yes it did warp a bit, but nothing a vise and rubber mallet can't fix: Here I tacked the welded flange to the intake tube: Welded and ground: All in place: Whoo hoo! [Edit] [Edit 9/9/2007: Well, this has turned out to be one of the most difficult and challenging projects to date. I really respect the skills a lot of the members have compared to me. Definately a learning experience!! I'm finally nearing completion, at least I have the IC tubes pretty much finished now. Getting the correct clamps and silicone parts has been a nightmare, but I should have them by the end of the week (dammit, why do I keep saying that?!). They're still not painted, but you can see how they setup is here: Yep, I had to resort to JB weld. The small tube was so thin, I'd blow right through...it took me forever to get it so it wouldn't leak. After it's painted, no one will know except you guys on Hybridz. Also, johnc and Olderthanme were right, that Aluminized stuff is NAAAAAAASTY! Make sure you get it off the inside of the pieces as well. (I still have a sore throat from yesterday when I accidentally breathed fumes once) Here they are ready for paint: Another one: My welds weren't pretty, so I ground them down. I hope the wrinkle paint will hide my mistakes. Primered: I picked the wrong day to be painting. Even though it is warm, it is really windy too...grr!! I hope the wrinkle paint job turns out looking halfway decent, but it looks like I didn't get good even coats. Some spots are smooth, while others are like volcanoes. I don't know if I'll be able to touch it up or not. I have to wait another hour before they're fully cured.

Late one night, I'm driving up Pacific highway in my 280ZX and a semi-riced out Honda is coming towards me from the oncoming direction. He sees my car and sticks his head out of the window as as he passes. That made me look in my rearview mirror and I can't believe I see him pull the e-brake at 40 mph and pull an illegal u-turn in the middle of an intersection (this was right after F&F 1 came out). He comes after me and I just ignore him. I'm sure he was driving around at 2 am just looking for someone to street race. Stupid kid was trying to get me in trouble!

I think what he meant to say was that the wood pattern warped (that was used to make the cavity in the sand for the casting). That does sound pretty funny though... [Ramble on:] I've worked with "the German guys" (that's what I call them anyway) who create wood patterns for sand castings over at a high-end pattern shop here in town. After WWII, they said they "went with the winners" and brought their technology over here. The stuff they do is amazing...really a black art and totally fascinating (at least to me). I've also worked with the investment casting industry...where they make the high-tech titanium castings. It is almost as big of a project to design the casting process (the gates, runners, cores, chills...account for shrinkage, flow, metallurgy, etc.) as the design of the casting itself. In fact, it's highly empirical...I think this is part of the reason why the "old timers" are still vital to the business even though we've had computational fluid dynamics mold flow technology for quite some time... Then you need all the fixtures to finish machine it, inspect it, tweak it, etc. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it would be great if someone could get the head into production again, but I think it would take more than just the pattern unfortunately. Blueprints would be the best...the rest can be reverse-engineered at a high price. hmm...sounds familiar... [Ramble off] This is going into a five gallon bucket in the tool shed now for sure!

Prox, hey thanks for the complement. It means a lot to me coming from one of you guys...and I probably couldn't (or wouldn't) have done it without Hybridz!!

I think that would be fine...it is now an open system because you don't have the vacuum to purge the vapor from the carbon hooked up anymore. The carbon container is basically just a big filter that way. It won't hurt performance leaving it that way as long as you don't plug the barbs for the lines on the canister that you removed... Maybe you're right that there are only two purge lines and the fuel tank vapor line.

If you live somewhere where they don't require a carbon canister, it can be removed. This is how you could do it on a ZX: Cap off the line at the bottom of the TB, top of the intake manifold, and one at the intake boot. Remove the hose for the fuel tank line but DON'T cap off the fuel line!! At this point, there are no more hoses so problem solved. Eh, you can remove the carbon canister too if you want. As for the hard tubing from the fuel tank that remains in the engine bay, it is better to not just leave it there, or else fuel vapors can collect and you know what that could mean when you go to start your car on a hot summer day after work... The best solution I've heard so far is to cut the fuel line back by the filler neck and make a loop so it will be less likely that fuel sloshes out or contaminants go in. There is an access panel in the wheel well on ZX's not sure about 280Z's. You can also use a filter on the end too. There has already been dicussions on this...I'm sure you could find them if you for it. Seems like almost everything z-related has been discussed here a time or two and then some!!

Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his. Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=796319&postcount=3

Well, since I'm stalled on my IC install until next week, I thought I'd start the Aero ducting. This is what I need to block off for better aerodynamics and directing the air into the intercooler and radiator area: These are the patterns for the sides and the "tester" piece I had to sacrifice: Folded: All three pieces: Driver side: (that hole in the side piece is where I mount my horn bracket) Passenger side: It would be nice to roll some beads into the lower piece to stiffen it up a bit. I don't know who in town would have one, but I think that "ZX" or something would look cool here. If anyone has any comments or suggestions (good or bad) PM me. Thanks! [Edit: 8/10/2007] Wowww.....now that is shiny...and it will never look this clean again, lol I know, I know...why did I have to go and rice it all up with the decal right away...been holding on to that one for three years waiting for just the right place! zweet. If it actually stiffened the piece then it wouldn't be rice? [Edit]

If I'm ever reincarnated, I want to be a Russian seatbelt!!

Like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-to-2-0-Silicone-silicon-reducer-coupler-red_W0QQitemZ200138366559QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200138366559 Now you owe me $5 finders fee (just kidding 82) You might also want to consider getting some t-bolt or accuseal clamps as well if you are going for high boost...HTH

I don't have specifics, but I'm pretty sure that valve overlap is less on turbosthan n/a because of reversion from the higher pressure exhaust gasses in a turbo application.

Yes indeed. I'm gonna port it. Well, I may port this one... The head you saw is actually a small part of the "big plan" which I won't bore you guys with at this time...plus it is top secret j/k. It will get relatively mild unshrouding and exhaust runner work...really just smoothing out the stock restrictions. I hope you were able to check out cyl#1 that Paul did the die grinding demonstration on. Just this mild work should help it breathe a lot easier. I'm going small now so I can get experience...and if I mess up, not as much material will have to be re-added...hopefully not any. It will then go back to Rusch Motorsports to get the seats cut, 5-angle valve job, my work inspected and cam installed...But, with just this mild amount of work, I'm kind of reluctant to use the head with the OEM EFI...even with a stock cam because of the VE change. I won't be able to tell the before / after effects of the head work alone due to my plan unfortunately (I'd really like to know via dyno numbers too!! Hmm...I know where there is a flowbench ) I have to get the Wolf3D system ready to go before I can even think about installing the head...this whole upgrade thing is proving to be a challenge for me. Turbo downpipe huh? I really need to get me one of those soon too...probably better to do the DP first before the head porting like the route you've chosen. Whoo hoo!! I'm getting the head back tomorrow!

How did those two (or more) lobes get so worn down?? I have a Schneider stage 2 turbo cam I have yet to install. They recommend new springs if there is over 0.460" lift, but the stage 2 is 0.460" lift. Did you use the OEM springs or Schneider ones? Sorry if you mentioned this in another thread...I looked but this seems like your first post about this...thanks. [Edit: Doh! I see your thread now naviathan...]

Also, you may lose your hearing eventually. Especially if you drive next the the barrier in the passing lane. This was my friend's experience with that setup on a 510.

Finally making some slow progress on the install...I'm using 2.25" tubes. It will fit!! It took awhile just to figure out how to mount it. It hangs from the radiator core support in two places using bolted connections and "spacer-sleeves". I made an adjustable support for the bottom (basically a threaded rod that screws into the IC boss with a flanged nut at the bottom all jam-nutted). (sorry for the blurr) This is the part I hate...cutting into the "headlight support". Easy does it. Hmmm...I had to take out little more than I thought...it doesn't look like it, but the tube will clear the headlight easily after I trim the headlight bracket... Damn, this is actually going to work!! One mandrel 45 degree and I should be there!! I knew it would be tight getting the CAI around the end tank... I know, you're probably wondering why I chose to go through the headlight bucket...I thought that this way the bends will be more gentle instead of making hard 90's right out of the IC. I'm going to get a big enough pressure drop "as-is" with the LONG core (23.5 x 11 x 3)". Eventually, I'll be using a Weber TB, HKS BOV and '75 intake so I'll have to rework this 2.25" unfortunately. I'm reading Corky Bell's book again and I want to incorporate a 15 degree "increaser" to go to from 2.25" to 3" for the 3.25" throttle body OD. Something like this: l It shouldn't be too hard to make...even easier if you have a CAD modeler that does sheet metal unfolding: I might have to get the radiator inlet angled too because space will be so tight with the bigger diameter... [Edit: 8/3/2007] Made a better lower IC mount...that other one wasn't going to cut it. The flange on the nut rotates, so I can use it to get everything tight. I still have a LOT to learn about welding, but it sure is fun practicing!! I might have a full minute of trigger time under my belt now. [Edit] [Edit: 8/9/2007] Well, the shipment that I need to complete the job (3" intake tubes, clamps, hoses, reducers, etc.) that the UPS girl dropped off was for the WRONG CUSTOMER!! Some guy in New York that must be putting in a dual exhaust is gonna be pretty pissed off too. No way I'll have this done by Sunday now for the Blue Lake show...well at least the pressure is off for now I guess. I have to wait until tomorrow to hear back from them since the company is on the right coast...I'm waiting to hear if I should send the parts back to MD or NY...they better reimburse the shipping. Time to work on ducting...I don't want to make any more cuts until I have all the pieces laid out!! [Edit] [Edit: 8/10/2007] Added some trim pieces so I don't rub holes in my IC tubes: It doesn't look like they line up very well, but it is the angle of the shot... [Edit]