hughdogz

Bleach, exactly what I was thinking 7.5 up front, 8.5 in back. But then you can't rotate the tires front to back. The 7.5's are currently +45 offset, so they'd have almost no dish (not to mention a big spacer). Plus 8.5's up front might have too heavy of a steering feel for me. That's why I'm waiting for +4 7.5's. Sorry for the T.J. dtaylor. I'm really looking forward to the pics with some rubber on them thare RB's

Me at the 2007 MSA show (I'm the one on the right with the goofy looking smile )

My mistake. It is the 17x7.5" wide that come only in +45 for now. The 17x8.5" wide are +4. If they were +45's they would have almost no dish! (and yours have quite a bit, I likey) I'd love to get a set of those 17x8.5" for my 280ZX (no coilovers) but I'm afraid they'll stick out too far and the tire will interfere with the inside of the fender in the front. Kim at Rota is checking on getting 17x7.5 +4 RB's made.

Those look great!! Are those the +45 offset?

28" H20 = 1.0106 psi 1 atmosphere = ~407.2" H20 = 14.7 psi = 29.92" Hg (Mercury) So I assume they're talking about gage pressure (pressure above / below atmospheric) versus absolute pressure. Some trivia: If you had a vacuum on the top of a column of water in a tube, you could only "suck" the water high enough to get a column ~407" high. This is why we put well pumps at the bottom of the well versus the top. Even if you had an infinitely strong pump, you can't raise (suck) the water above 34 feet since you cannot get a pressure below a complete vacuum. -Hugh

TBS, now you're begging the question...what CFD software are you going to use? It sounds pretty heavy duty if you can do dynamic CFD with convective heat transfer, etc. It would be really cool if it could do mass transfer / state change for the nucleate boiling that a lot of the more advanced members seem to be talk about on a regular basis. Keep it up!! I can't wait to see the next progress update.

Right-click, save link as...seems to work now. http://home.comcast.net/~hughhenderson/engine_R11.zip (~ 14 Mb) http://home.comcast.net/~hughhenderson/engine_R9.zip (~ 28 Mb) All the valvetrain was created in R11 using the cam generator, shaft generator, etc. so I couldn't save them in R9 format. For those of you who don't have a copy of Inventor, you can download the free viewer at: http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?id=7333846&siteID=123112 -Hugh

Oh Man, how cool is that?! turbobluestreak, I'm curious...how far and wide can the range go on that scanner? I've always wondered how those things worked...

Well, I just eyeballed it from those books about how to rebuild / modify your Datsun OHC. I used whatever book measurements I could. I didn't truly reverse-engineer any of the models except for the Weber TB, but I think the engine dimensions are reasonable...I could probably get sued for infringement on the TB, lol. BRAAP noticed that I didn't even get the intake / exhaust patterned right. That shouldn't be too hard to fix, but then you have to re-build all the Fillets. I'll try and get the original files posted for you tomorrow. That would be cool! I'd like to check it out. Inventor doesn't do the forward compatibilty and most likely never will. We can save them out as some neutral file format like IGES, but then they're just dumb solids after that...so yeah, it kind of blows. I should try out a stress analysis simulation on the strut tower braces (as others mentioned). I was curious about the same thing...whether or not bending moments in the welded design is better than a two-force member design (no bending) because of the Heim/spherical joints. I'm sure you'd have to figure out how to apply different loading scenarios to get meaningful results...

Are you talking about my models or Cygnusx1's? I can probably post them up to my comcast account if you're interested. Once you migrate an Inventor model past IV_10 (for instance), you can't open it in 10 anymore. Luckily, I think these were made in R10 or earlier.

Feels like I just watched the Moon landing or something! I'm in awe 1 fast z!!

Looking Good!! If the latest DP doesn't help get you to the 400 HP mark, I don't know what DP would Is that stainless material that is ceramachrome coated? Also, did you weld it all up yourself or did Hutchkins help out? Regardlesss, I really like the design and hope to build one of those soon myself. HorsepowerFreaks is having a dyno day tomorrow (Saturday) 3 pulls for $50. If you are going there, let me know because I definately want to check out your ride close up in person!!

Go to his website, click on "who is Kameari", click on their catalog. He can get any part from them (so far as I know...) Coilovers: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/catalogue-P41.pdf Camber plates: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/catalogue-P39.pdf azcarbum is checking on the price for the coilovers, but from the cataloge they are ~45k yen.

Man that looks great!! You can really see those numbers now. Okay, I have a valid question about blue lighting in gages. As we know, blue lighting isn't good for night vision from the numerous HID lighting posts. I have a Autometer Cobalt EGT gage mounted in a gage pod that has a blue LED. The light is bright as hell at night and right in my face. I'm thinking of trying to convert to a red LED. KTM, have you witnessed any decreased night vision when staring down at the gages for a brief second, then looking up again to the road at night? I sure don't want to change from blue the LED if I don't have to. Thanks (in advance), -Hugh

Lookie here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125644 official site: http://www.zccjdm.com/ Brian is a great guy. Very knowledgable and he hardly marks up the price at all (maybe ~$20). Mostly he just wants us USA guys to be able to get JDM parts we cannot get stateside otherwise. Hope this helps! Later, -Hugh [Edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that he is willing to make S130 adjustable T/C rods for us. Somone just needs to send him an OEM part to work from. I've seen his work for the S30 rods he makes and the quality (and engineering) is top-notch IMHO.]

ktm, Thanks for getting this phenomenal write-up going. I agree Ron is the MAN! Now if I can just figure out how to get the Wolf3D out of the cardboard box it came in, I'll be on my way...(j/k)

zcarbum sells front and rear coilover setups for the 280ZX (S130). I don't know if they are Kameari or Cusco or what. ZCCJDM.com Also, along a similar note, he sells front and REAR camber plates for s130's as well. He has a HUGE parts catalogue that has TONS of S130 JDM aftermarket parts Hope this helped...

Okay, so you do have a 13 sec n/a car (I didn't know I swear)! My apologies for doubting you BG. As for the piston lightening, I'm no expert engine builder, but it would seem to me that lightening the piston would have the good effect of decreasing the inertial loads imparted to the connecting rod from the piston. The inertial loads on the connecting rod are highest in tension during TDC of the exhaust stroke (since there isn't an opposing load from combustion or compression). Inertial loads are highest in compression at BDC of the exhaust stroke. With fatigue, the only concern is tensile load. Since F=ma, reducing the mass of the piston will reduce the fatigue load proportionally. As long as the integrity of the piston isn't compromised it can only do goodness. As others mentioned it will no doubt have less "rotating" mass to accelerate. It seems to me like the ring-lands usually fail on forged pistons before the top of the piston running high boost anyway, so he's not even changing the weak part of the piston...but like I said, I'm no expert so I could be wrong. I think it's a pretty clever mod myself...and probably one that will work well.

I think you guys are right, it's not the same: x is different than a*theta Piston velocity is the rate of change of x's position. You can see it is different than r*w (or in this illustration a*(d_theta/dt) I work on a 3D dynamics program that calculates inertial forces, velocities, friction, etc. It would be interesting to use it to see what the effects to the system are for weight reduction on a piston. And Bubbles... without a time slip or 1/4 mi vid I wouldn't even start to compare myself with 1 fast z (no hard feelings B.G.)

Well I finally finished up the install!! Now all I have left to do is continue tweaking the preload setting on the HKS re-circulating valve (BOV). I had to add extra plumbing and take advantage of the Weber TB so I could retain all the stock ancilliary crapola. The OEM turbo intake manifold will go away eventually, so please don't pay any too much attention to it. (and thanks jgkurz for the tip on modifying the Weber, and zcarnut for the linkage components) It really pulls hard now, even at 7 psi. I can't seem to get it to boost much higher yet. I think I hear the valve open to recirculate, then close back up under high boost load. Even now it is a total beast compared to stock!! Anyway, here are some garage pics: Thanks for looking! Later, -Hugh

Kind of off topic, but WOW you did a superb job on the wrinkle paint for the IC tubes!!! What's your secret? Also, Pop 'N Wood...serious thanks for the heads-up on AN versus JIC. Looks like I'm going to do the purely AN route sooner than I thought. I thought the coupler (in the air compressor section) was 1/4" NPT, not JIC. Hmm...no wonder I only got about four threads of engagement.

Ahh...that's how you do it! I couldn't find those compression fitting types of AN fittings. Thanks for the link Cygnus!! I went the "home desperate" route (term courtesy of BRAAP ) I bought a brass 5/16" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting. Then I had to get a 1/4 NPT coupler to covert it to female, so I could then use a 1/4" NPT to -6AN. I would think that the one piece is better than three (and definately look better). When I put the compression sleeve on the fuel line, I had to use 1200 grit to remove the plating and smooth it out to get the fit right. Then, to get it really tight, I was glad the fitting was Brass so I could really torque the sucker on there. I'm sure the AN one won't leak or else they couldn't keep selling them for FI. Regards, -Hugh

Excellent!! Thanks Zcarnut. I apprecate the link too! You guys are the best.

I'm installing a Weber TB and the ball diameter for the ball and socket linkage on the new TB is a tiny bit smaller than the OEM one. Only about 1/64" smaller but it is just enough that the socket isn't very secure. The one on the Weber is threaded, but the OEM is pressed-in so I can't really swap them. Is this a common part that my local parts place would have or do I need to go to Weber or maybe Nissan for a new linkage piece? Thanks for any advice, -Hugh

Welcome to Hybridz (I always wanted to say that ) and congrats on the find!! If it is truly pristine (and you want to keep it that way) then you'll want to be careful with which IC you get because almost any installation will require cutting through the radiator core support. For instance, with that NPR you could mount it in front of the radiator cutting 3" holes on either side of the radiator to run the pipes to the compressor outlet and throttle body... Like Mario said, you can get just about any type of IC nowadays for $150, so you don't have to limit yourself to the NPR design. How much boost are you running now? You can "safely" run up to 9psi without an intercooler before the safety BOV kicks out. I'm just guesstimating, but it feels like you get +40 horsepower with just a $12 manual boost controller. I have a 82 280ZXT also. Did you see my member's project page? I'm almost done with my IC setup. Also, I recommend reading the Turbo FAQ sticky a few times to get a good understanding of how the whole upgrading thing works. Then I would spend about ten hours and read all the L6 turbo posts you can find. Believe it or not, I think it saves time (and $$$) in the end. The intercooler is but a small piece of the giant turbo puzzle...but it is a huge factor that determines which options you will have with the rest of the setup. Mario, if it makes you feel any better, if I were to do it again, I would have chosen a different IC design than the one I bought four years ago too. LOL! Good luck! -Hugh