hughdogz

Have you tried installing a jam nut below the knob? Then you can clock it where you want and it shouldn't rattle if the jam nut is tight up against it. HTH...

^^^ or OFF. ouch...

Frank, I wish I could say that I have some "real mods" but alas...most of my stuff is "bolt-on" with almost no adjustability. Pallnet fuel rail and Aeromotive AFPR, etc. - doesn't make it go any faster Tokico Advanced handling kit - lower and stiffer, but no adjustablility like coilovers Cold air K&N intake - maybe adds 1-2 HP Susp Tech sway bars - bolt on and without adjustable end-links they are almost too stiff etc. etc. etc. The only thing I really have going for me is the custom IC setup and adjustable boost control. Maybe in a couple years I can almost hang with the "big dawgs"

I've had two so far and hopefully I won't have to buy any more. I bought an '81 2+2 n/a right out of college. I knew I wanted an L6 Z, but I didn't know anything about them other than that. It was a total mess...I basically saved it from going to the scrapyard. Spent a year restoring it from JY parts and having the bodywork done, painted PPG 1999 Jaguar purple...man I loved it (and so did the girls). Then I found out about the Coupe and Turbo. Then I realized that I had restored the wrong car . The search went on and finally I landed a decent job and then found my '82 ZXT. I still have the 2+ but since it refused to pass DEQ one year (and I refused to buy a new cat for it) it sits to this day. [Edit: Nothing wrong with rockin a 2+2...in fact they might be superior aerodynamically to the coupe and more stable with the longer wheelbase. I've seen pics of some bada$$ 2+'s in Europe and JPN...I just prefer the coupe]

I'm glad I read this thread. Zmanco posted a good "tune-up" thing for me to check. I remember installing some new floor mats from MSA. They made it so I wouldn't get 100% throttle anymore. I was wondering what the heck happened?? I finally put two and two together and realized what I did...duh...

Yeah! In fact, I cut a hole in the floorboard behind the gas pedal now I'm getting 3x the stock HP!! I just hate the way the cold air goes up my leg now...

x 2 !! I can't wait to see you run at the re-paved Portland International Raceway next year (Woodburn dragstrip too!)

This is where stopped reading last night. I don't understand the reasoning here. Are you confusing psi with bar? 1 bar = 1 atm =14.7 psi. So if you run 6 psi of boost, you are increasing pressure (6+14.7)/14.7 = 1.41 times more than atmospheric. I think this is termed the "pressure ratio" in Corky's book.

Nice! Is that the BMW idle air controller that someone posted up last week? If you can't find reinforced hose, how about pressing in a short piece of hard tubing inside the hose (maybe the middle) where it is collapsing?

WOW! this thing is a virgin... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/491461263.html Somone buy this baby! The owner probably hasn't beaten on it...they listen to Kink FM lol!

...they're just jealous! Whoo hoo Brian!! It's unlike like an RB swap or any engine swap (not that that's easy either). So making a front engine FWD car into a rear-engined RWD car doesn't make any sense to them either? Obviously they don't think like we do.

I forgot to add...ever since I added the horizontal piece that goes between the bottom of the air dam inlet and below the front of the radiator, the car seems more stable at high speeds. It doesn't seem to want to wander as much. Also, I think it directs much more air through my radiator (better downforce and cooling). Even on the hottest days, my temp gauge stays between 3/8th and 1/2. Stock, my temps would be 1/2 -> 5/8ths. Of course a giganto-sized aluminum radiator helps too. I might even be getting a teeny bit more power with the engine running cooler! I think you'd want to block off using horizontal pieces before (or at least at the same time as) the grill piece or ledge piece. Hopefully one of the experts will chime in...

This probably should have been posted in the Aero forum...I don't see anything wrong with with it, the data isn't down. I was about to say the same thing but jt1 beat me to it. I looked again and I saw 2x6 being mentioned, but I don't want to take it out of context. It's okay to have a small opening like that when you're at speed (NASCAR) and there is a LOT of pressure that is forcing through the small opening. I think it would be totally different if you're idling in rush hour traffic and your fan is pulling air through that little opening at ~15 MPH. If I'm reading this right, I wouldn't block off the radiator at all...instead block off more of the grill. What I've taken away from that thread (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here). 1) You want downforce (and lower drag). You do this by not letting a lot of air come through the grill and out below in front of the radiator or from under the engine bay. You do this by sealing off the area around the front of the radiator, and only let enough air into the engine bay needed to cool the radiator, etc. You can do this by blocking off portions of the grill. This will direct the air over and around the car instead of below it. 2) You want air to flow through cooling components, not around them. Since there is less air coming in, there's less to flow through the components and air will tend to go around the coolers if they can. To direct (force) the air through them, you want to seal with a box like Dragonfly and the others did. The way I'm approaching it is first seal it up to increase downforce. The cooling components will do their job just fine, but maybe at a lower efficiency since air can still go around them. Next, I want to seal them so that whatever air goes into the IC and oil cooler is also forced through the radiator. Finally, I'll try and seal it so that all the air that comes in is forced through the IC and oil cooler. This may require blocking off more of the frontal area for an S30 but maybe not for my S130. Again, it is totally different if you're building a track car versus a street driven car. Anyway, I hoped this helped and I'm not mistaken. There is so much Technical information in that forum that it almost it hurts my head trying to soak it all in.

I seem to remember that somewhere in that Aero forum it stated that a 2 inch by 8 inch opening is all you really need to supply air to the rad / intercooler / oil cooler.

Hey thanks for the compliments guys...I wasn't sure if I sound okay or not. Ron, Paul...don't you dare do that! I'm using two amps. One is a Crate G20 that I put a Celestion speaker into and the other is a Park (Marshall) practice amp. They're not that great really. I run them through an effects pedal so I can get stereo sound. The effects pedal is a Digitech RP300. The RP300 also has the crappy drum machine you hear in the background. The guitar is a Samick stratocaster copy made in Korea. I bought it back in Jr. College about 16 years ago (wow, it's really been that long?!) I paid only $265 for it. I used my college scholarship money I was supposed to spend on books. I figured I could just take good notes for the semester. Big-phil, I don't think you're a hack at all...in fact, I still think you're a LOT better than I am. I mean you can improvise and make that guitar SCREAM!! All I can do is imitate other performers. Peace! -Hugh

I know I'm not as good as BigPhil, but hey at least I'm trying!

Hi Jeff, I bought a Stage II Schneider Turbo cam from MSA last year. It is the one with .460" lift (non-hydraulic). I heard that you were involved in the development of it. I'm curious if you think it is a good cam for a stock turbo or maybe a turbo with ~25% more flow capability than stock. Also with mild unshrouding of the valves and cleaning up the exhaust ports. Too big? Too small? Worse than stock? (j/k) Thanks, -Hugh

nbesheer, Brian totally is right but I don't think that graph is indicative of a typical metal. If I remember correctly, after the yield point the curve goes horizontal (a definition of yielding is you get more strain without adding much, if not any more stress). It doesn't make sense to me that you could lower the stress, yet get more strain (elongation). It's also interesting that once you're past the yield point and unload, it takes a different path back, but with the same slope. At this this point it is plastically deformed and the strain doesn't start at zero anymore and it is now considered "work hardened". You can add more stress then the first time before it starts to plastically deform again. Getting back on topic, in reality I'd be surprised if a connecting rod stretches like the chart shows. The common mode of failure is fracture at the small end. The chart is correct only it happens at a localized area where a crack forms, grows and finally runs and you get fatigue failure. To help avoid fatigue failure, you should only cyclically load up to half the ultimate tensile strength IIRC. Another method is to shot peen the rods so that it adds a pre-compressive stress to overcome before you even get to a tensile load. Polishing is important too to help eliminate any stress risers (cracks or sharp inside corners) from forming. BRAAP has a great example that shows failure due to buckling resulting from detonation...looks more like a pretzel than a connecting rod. Somehow the hyper-eutectic pistons came out still looking brand new!

Right on Man! I'm glad you made it here safely!! And congrats on finishing school. Just wanted to give you a head's up that we have a NW-Z meeting next Wednesday (northwestz.org). Hope to see ya there.

Hi Cygnus, have you tried one of those ultrasonic things yet? Just a thought...

I may be wrong, but here is how I'm looking at it...if we're talking about breaking transmissions and rear differentials it comes down to shock loading, not a constant force or acceleration. Say that you have a 500 HP engine and you drop the clutch on a 1000 pound car with no tire (or clutch) spin. I think it would be harder on the drivetrain (a bigger shock) to drop 500 HP on a 10,000 pound car under the same conditions. I think this is basically what Brian is saying...in general lighter is better...less mass to accelerate is less force on the components. Here is another analogy: Who would win a 400m dash...a fat guy or a skinny guy? lol...if it were a tie, I would think it would be much harder on the fat guy's bones (components) than the skinny guy's bones. Maybe it's not a perfect analogy, but this thread could use some more lightening up!

I know that the '82T uses only two wires for the TPS. I would think that an n/a 3-wire TPS should work. When the throttle is closed, there is resistance between two of the terminals, when the throttle is cracked open, there is infinite resistance (open circuit). Easy to check with a multi-meter...I don't recall offhand what the closed resistance should be, but I can check it out for you once I get home if you'd like. HTH

I totally know that feeling Bo! At least we aren't modifying an airplane. That's great you're up and running again!! I'm not exactly sure how he did it, but "Mr. Wolf3D" has hooked up visible and audible warnings in case the oil pressue or engine temp goes beyond a certain limit. I think you can also have the engine automatically shut down if you lose oil pressue or the temperature skyrockets...it may be as simple as tying in an auxillary input to the oil pressure sender.

Maybe it does have 422 RWHP but the eight non-funtional "lee press on" vents and plastic intake for a roots blower? To each his own I guess. I thought those centrifugal superchargers could push ~9-10 psi max. 14 psi makes me wonder... Also, those guys were beating him up too much IMHO...almost makes me feel anti-anti rice.

How embarrassing! Sounds like he doesn't even know how to BS! Nissan should repossess the car from this guy lol! [Edit: first link fixed - thanks Cruez!]