260DET

So, has anyone finished their test to destruction with this engine yet? At what RPM and HP did she blow, or otherwise give up

Like the bit about the pistons being designed for >1400 hp

Stuck a couple of pics up in my gallery Jon, should be here http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8120

At the starting price its a bargain............IMHO

Mike said what I was thinking. As to legality, do a nice (metal) job and who is going to know?? It will very likely be legal anyway, if it is done properly.

What we have decided to do is to machine the housing out but only partway through the eye of the arm. The spherical (monoball) bearing will then be pressed in to sit against the shoulder created as above. It will be followed by a ring which will be tack welded to the arm to retain the bearing. Will try and do a pic in due course.

Very nice, the right shade green too, brings out the Z lines. Here is my meaner green machine

One good thing with the CF flares is that they would not have to be painted; the fibreglass ones do to look decent. On the CF look with a '70's car I'll leave to other comment

Not all R180 diffs were created equal, the later ones had thicker stub axles, a very desireable feature. Don't ask me to define 'later' because apparently in this area what the US got was not always the same as elsewhere. All I can say is that before removing the R200 and going with a ATB R180 using the skinnier 4wd stubs, after doing the research I was happy to do the change, anticipating up to 280 rwhp and turbo torque once the goodies were screwed up. But thats with a rolling start, no clutch dumping which kills transmissions.

Check the rotor sizes of the two, tc72, that should tell you something eh

Thanks all, just have to persuade Mr Fussy Machinist to enlarge the stock hole a bit rather than a complete redo

Wondering what is a sure and simple way to modify the front lower control arms inners to fit spherical bearings (Heim joints), not rod ends. We were thinking of removing the existing tubular locater welded into the arm and replacing it with a fixed bush into which the bearing could be pressed. But perhaps the bearing should be positively located in the arm by a shoulder on one side and a circlip on the other. So, who has done what and how did it turn out?

A qualification of my above post. Having just tested the Holley Red it does pick up quite well, so my problem apparently does not result from poor suction performance. Although of course it will perform better the lower it is mounted and the lower the pickup point is. Flow rate on test was five liters per minute.

My front guards were cut to clear the tyres, the rears did not have to be cut for mine. Depends on the wheel width and offset of course as to whether or not the guards have to be cut. The fibreglass ones provide entirely adequate stiffness BTW, can't see the point in having CF ones.

<<< Check my location He developed the Nissan ATB for his own use, he races a Nissan. Most of his sales so he told me are Porsche GT3 units to the US market.

http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm

Looks like the result of 'I'll supply the beer' job

Two piece usually consist of the rim with a flange which is used to attach the rim to the center. In my limited experience, alterations to wheels is an expensive business though

First run on a circuit with the R180 Torsen type LSD diff and CV jointed half shafts last Saturday. Quite different to the former R200 Nissan plate type LSD, get the back end out and hold it there Very predictable and smooth. Thinking about some changes to the driving technique. With third gear sweeping corners, 120 to 180 degrees, an off power/on power blip seemed to work to get the front in tighter and drive out in a fairly straight drift. Track time is fun, mostly, any tips or comments?

Before spending big money, why not take a Z hub to a wreckers and check it against a Holden hub? Alternatively, what about those five stud hubs used for trailers? They would be Holden or Ford I'd guess.

Mine is set up for fuel injection, so it has a EFI pump, a surge pot and a Red as the pickup pump. In a racing situation there have been problems, apparently resulting from the poor suction performance of the Red. So now the pickup pipe will be moved to outside the tank to pickup from underneath the tank, with the bottom of the Red about level with the pipe.

You reckon it was the clutch plate? I've no experience with this sort of situation but am wondering if the clutch could cause such a major chain reaction.