260DET

Good idea, I am going to get some advice too. The only motor I will build is a bullet proof one, not interested in anything else.

If the valve gear blows @ 7000rpm on an interference engine then there is going to be catastropic engine damage. These motors are relatively rare and expensive for me so I'm proceeding with caution.

I'd go a Jap engine any day, specially bang for buck and reliability. Difference is the Jap stuff is made in large quantities so its not sooo wannna be exclusive

This is getting way off topic but I can do that with my thread piss off nono Anyway W, sounds like you are going to the FOSC, there are a couple of teams from the Q club going to that. I can't for various reasons.

Yeh the 33's lower sprocket has to be used due to its diameter. Spacers could be used, see my comment in the opening post. Its all doable, will it be reliable though.

Problem is that the oil pump drive part of the forged crank snout is longer front to back than that of the VG33's. This is to accomodate the wider VG30 oil pump. Come across anyone who has actually done the swap? Yeh I love the design of the single cam VG's, just something about their elegant simplicity. Put together like your ideal woman

The two pics referred to above, note that the old oil pump gasket is yellow in colour and still in place. The part of the block to be built up with liquid metal or whatever is the rough part surrounding the white dot on the right side.

The info which follows does not appear anywhere else that I have been able to find, suprising given that we are talking about swapping in a forged crank to replace a cast one and using a higher capacity oil pump involving engines that some would consider obsolete by now. I'm approaching this topic from the view of building a high performance no compramise turbo engine. The short answer is that using a VG30DE/TT ("VG30") crank will result in cam sprocket and timing belt tensioner pulley misalignment, the crank sprocket will sit 7mm further forward. Which means that the cam sprockets and tensioner pulley will have to be spaced 7mm forward. I'm not going to consider accessory alignments here but obviously things like the water pump alignment will be affected. At this time I have not decided whether to proceed but it should be possible to align the cam sprockets by changing the alignment when converting them to be adjustable as to valve timing, which I intended to do anyway. As to hanging the sprockets out a further 7mm that obviously changes the load exerted on the front of the camshaft and its bearings. Now to oil pumps. First of all the VG33 oil pump cannot be used with the VG30 crank, it is narrower front to back so the oil seal does not align with the crank. Will the VG30 oil pumps fit? I say 'pumps' because while the naturally aspirated and TT use different capacity pumps their exterior dimensions are the same. The answer is a qualified 'yes', if you are prepared to do some creative engineering. The oil gallery hole lines up as do all but two of the mounting bolts. The flanges are about 90% good but some building up of the block face is required, liquid metal should do. Plus drilling and tapping two M6 holes in the block. Note that the VG30 pumps use a larger ID pickup tube and the outlet is slightly bigger in ID too. A couple of pics should illustrate what is needed, one pic below shows the two required holes marked with white dots, the other shows an old VG30 pump sitting in place.

Did a comparison between a VG33 crank and a Z32 crank which is very relevant to the subject of fitting any Z32 oil pump to a 33. Because the Z32 pump is wider front to back and its crank nose is machined accordingly I'm starting a separate thread. Short answer is there is no simple bolt up solution.

Lets compare the dimensions of the 33 and VG30DE pump rotors I have. Both have wavey type rotors, the 33 is a JDM engine with the V shaped pump housing. 33 -77mm OD, 7.9mm wide. DE -85mm OD, 12.1mm wide Amended to include more info, taken from Z31performance forum. Z31 manual turbo - 74.6mm OD, 12.5mm wide Z31 auto turbo... - 74.6mm OD, 15.5mm wide. Interesting, if those figures are right.

Scat rods and ARP main studs arrived today, thankyou Race Engineering Inc, Florida, for the prompt service and keen price although I was charged $77.50 for shipping when it says $50.85 on the USPS box. Engine has been pulled down except for the cylinder heads and looks in good condition for my purposes. Very gunky inside and some marks on the cylinder walls, nothing broken though so no problems.

That looks pretty good W, I'll be very surprised if you don't get a result from that. Don't talk to me about track days, my last two have been rained out, none this year so far

Looks like the VG30DE/TT pumps will fit. I won't be attempting this for months because my 33 project is a long term build but drill and tap two 6mm holes in the block and fill in the gap where the block will not meet the pump flange with Devcon or similar should do it. There may be other things that need attention but at the moment it looks doable.

Frank's right, D2 et al does not have decent damping internals like Koni etc have. The hardware may be OK to use to fit Koni etc inserts in though.

If the pump has the wavey type gerotor guts like the Z32 pumps have, not the gear tooth type, then it should be OK. Providing it is a decent size of course, keeping in mind I've yet to see specific details of VG33 pump failure so the above is a bit of a guess. A Z32 needs a fair bit more lubrication capacity than a VG33, what with its four cams, VVT, oil squirters, etc. My VG30DET has a TT oil pump, after an oil and filter change it picks up oil pressure within two seconds of starting, they shift a lot of oil. The pump on my 33 is the V type, will see in a day or two what guts it has. EDIT Got the chance to look at my 33's oil pump and what a tiny POS, it has the wavey guts but the VG30DE pump is a lot bigger and looks like it has twice as much capacity, the VG30DETT's is bigger again. The original 33 wavey guts pump may be OK for a stock motor but my 33 will see 7000 RPM regularly. So, can a VG30DE pump be made to fit? The oil gallery lines up, all but two bolt holes line up, stay tuned

ArizonaZ sells a fair bit of gear into AU, a friend of mine has bought some, so I guess he exports elsewhere too. The old S30 is starting to become valuable which means some owners are prepared to spend up on improvements.

Oh I thought you were talking about getting the Z32 crank machined to fit. So your VG33 crank is good, I understand.

What machining? Far as I know the Z32 crank drops straight into a VG33, will know for sure in a few days anyway.

Itchy & Scratchy

Stick a Z32 crank into it, thats what I'm going to do.

See the new Retro VG33ET thread.

The motor is out of a JDM El Grand which is a sort of AWD luxury van and have started to pull it to pieces, its supposed to have done 103000 KM. Typically, the coolant was very stale, on the good side the oil was not too bad. This is going to be a slow project, the present VG30DET engine in the Z is going well at long last so there is no rush. Have some Scat rods and a ARP main stud kit on the way from the USA, its best to spread the purchases over a period of time, doesn't hurt the pocket so much that way. The power aim is for something like 450 horses at the wheels with heaps of mid range torque and big acceleration from 3500 RPM up, Z is mainly used for time attack type events. Anyway, here is a pic, hope its not too big.

My experience with light weight flywheels in traffic is that the transmission tends to shunt when using very light throttle ie car can jerk a bit. So a bit of extra weight will smooth things out a bit. That is a good price for what seems to be a decent product, may get one myself, let us know if you get one.

There is a heap of difference between doing a special job on a 30 year old modified car and having routine service work done on a late model unmolested car. Don't know what its like in the US but in my experience the former is the tough one, both to find someone competent to do the job and being able to get a cost estimate that turns out anywhere near close.

Pffft, the Nissan S chassis in its time is impossible to beat in RWD, unless you up the budget considerably. Traitor