260DET

The later model suspension stuff is more likely to have better geometry, my preference for the front would be to look at using S13 or later parts. Plenty of aftermarket bits for them.

Brazen? Nice safe pass, didn't chop anyone, good to go. Fez was slow in a straight line as is one I come across occasionally although this one looked quite steady in the corners compared with it.

With your sort of power goal I used 3/8" supply line, 5/16" return to a swirl pot fed by a pickup pump from the stock tank but that should make no difference. Injectors on mine are 550cc, a bit bigger would be OK. VQ30DET should be nice, mine has a VG30DET.

No mate, I was referring to competition S30's, with a road only car its not really necessary given our speed limits.

It can flow more than enough for a three liter engine, that is certain. The crucial point is that apparently it is flowing evenly to all cylinders @ 15 PSI boost.

Mechanically they are not too bad, long as its realised that to get durability they have to be driven kindly. Electrically, hmmm, I'm sure they can be updated to improve reliability. As a weekender fine, provided they are prepared and maintained accordingly. And its great that you are thinking about your mum, err, 'mom'.

From the video I'm not sure where the air is going with the front vents, with the stock rear ones it is definately exiting. The main thing is that its working so thats good. Going to try blocking off the grille opening above the bumper next? Not picking on you, you are trying things, but bugger me S30 owners in AU are slack when it comes to aero improvements.

Yeh as Jon indicates you need to consider practicalities and what you want to achieve. For example, the undertray on mine (I call it an 'undertray' because this one is an aero device, not because it sounds F1'ish or other cool) was designed to give downforce, to direct cooling air back for the transmission and not into the wheel wells and to give reasonable ground clearance. Without test facilities all you can do is study the theory, consider the implications and practicalities of what you want to do and then go from there.

We had it up to 15PSI boost on the dyno when the plugs were checked, final power will be ~450 non optimistic DynoDynamics WHP, depending on driveability. May have to drop the GT35R rear housing down one to get that.

The plenum itself would be ~4.5 liters I guess, the entry ~2.5. Might add that the design took no notice of volume, it was all about optimumising flow, the physical limitations of the location and serviceability.

Oh, I thought it was there so you could use a lower gear if more effort was required

Good luck because specific design info on what you are asking seems to be non existent at a amateur level, if you find any post it up. Did put some vortex generators on a my undertray, there is a topic on it.

Designed this with some help to overcome uneven air distribution with the previous side entry plenum. A rear entry design was chosen because it gave the most height at the entry point, important because the incoming air has to turn down to fill the cylinder intakes, the nearer the intake to the entry/the lower the plenum roof, the sharper the turn. The extra complication of using bellmouth intakes was decided on to improve flow significantly and assist even distribution, they are 30mm high off the plenum floor and have a specific shape to maximumise their efficiency. The entry into the plenum is 76 x 100mm wide and it incorporates a central turning vane for the purpose of spreading the air as it enters. Otherwise it would tend to concentrate at the outside of the intake turn and so tend to enter the plenum favouring the left side. The plenum has been fitted and the engine run up on the dyno. A plug reading indicates that each cylinder is breathing equally, the plugs read identically. Pics should be self explanatory. EDIT this was supposed to go in the V6 engine forum, somehow...........

at Gutter Man and Pissing Santa, might see if I can organise a replica of the latter, very appropriate

Stop hogging all that snow you greedy Americans, grabbing all the earth's resources, send some here its hot hot hot

I wouldn't worry about getting all sides down to 12 degrees, its just something to aim for if its possible in a particular situation. In the present context any ducting that effectively reduces the radiator opening is good and a very worthwhile improvement and good on you for doing it. All flow separation will do here is create some turbulence but it will be far far less than stock. Incidentially, I've used similar reduced opening ducting on my intercooler and oil cooler. It seems to work very well.

Yeh the suave Porker driver has the mandatory driving gloves, so cool, then there is the MB SUV driver. Bit of a Cherman pisstake maybe

Irrespective of how good that system is, how would it fit in a modern road car? Given that most engines sit across the front wheel line and not behind it. Anyway it looks too complicated to me and likely carries extra weight which may rule it out for most competition cars too. Putting aside such petty and practical considerations, I'm guessing it would require special tyres if much lean is involved? The amount of camber that different conventionally suspended cars use is always interesting, particularly with wide tyres which you would think would benefit from running little camber so the tread can remain parallel with the road surface. Yet V8 Supercars run up to 8 degrees front camber, even the Z with semi slicks has 4.5 degrees. And of course Ackermann can change that in turns too so....... Running off topic a bit but my thinking is that tyres play a crucial role in all this and can compensate for different inputs so that the suspension does not have to be perfect for everything to work as it should.

No experience with flat out highway driving, liable to get your car taken away from you here for that But comparing the S30 and S130 for wind noise levels up to 200kph on a circuit and with the drivers window open, the S130 is much quieter.

If you want to be technical call that arrangement a diffuser, now you need something like that behind the radiator to complete the effect. Just keep in mind that if the maximum angle of the surrounds, sides etc, is more than ~12 degrees then there will be air separation inducing turbulence. The airflow will separate from the surrounds because it is being asked to turn more than it can.

With that arrangement Jon vents in the guards/fenders behind the wheels would also help, with the S30 air tends to get trapped in that region. The only negative I can think of to venting from the engine bay as you propose is warm air around the brakes, may not be crucial though.

Don't these Euro cars run long life oil? 40K is not a lot, I would be sueing. . . .

Hollywood next, casting couches and all that