260DET

Your Datsun bolts are made and marked to a JIS standard (Japanese Industry Standard) which is similar to the DIN standard but not the same. If you want to get into the numbers then it may be easier to check the DIN markings, Japanese info like this is always difficult to find. I have always worked on the principle that the higher the JIS number the stronger the bolt, given that vital structural bolts on Japanese cars like on steering and brakes usually have the higher numbers eg from 7 up. While the non structural stuff is usually marked 4 and strips threads/breaks relatively easily. Oh no, don't tell me I have been living/bolting a lie

So, pics of the lower plenum coming up?

20 mph is an awful lot to pick up, sounds like the splitter design was not the best so it just goes to show you that OE is not always best.

It was a great adventure, pity the writer sexed it up to the point where the article is quite misleading. Parts like "entered the Mexico round of the World Rally Championship" are simply untrue. 'Don't let the facts get in the way of a good story' journalism. Real facts are something like this. The rally concerned was a locally organised Mexican rally confusingly called Rally America run concurrently with a leg of the WRC. So there were two separate and distinct rallies run together on the same course, thats it. The results of that rally are here http://www.rallymexico.com/content.php?page=rally under the Results - Rally America tag. The car concerned appears to be in a class called 'open', in the one PDF file I opened the BMW was the only car in that class. Anyway I don't mean to detract from what those fellas accomplished, its just a shame that it was reported in such a way that may reflect badly back on them.

Wow, only in America

If you have online banking then you may be able to do a overseas funds transfer directly into the vendor's bank account. I did this yesterday to a US vendor, your bank hits you with fees of course and to do it requires a fair bit of information. But its done on your computer so 24/7.

Anyone else want to contribute? Pereferably not pics of your own car

And the final one, which is a bit sad because it involves a historic Brabham open wheeler. Driver had fitted the roll over bar a week before, he was OK but the car.........look at that smashed real mag wheel.

Next one involves a Hoonda, which crashed at the same kink for no reason that I know of. Same result.

Johnc posted some pics in another section of a BMW crash he saw, driver walked away. As a driver I always have mixed emotions about crashes, glad its not me, great to see the driver is OK, the sometimes interesting story behind the crash. Anyway without more ado as they say here are mine. All happened recently at my favourite circuit which on average claims one victim per event. This one involves a GTR, he was racing his mate in a GT3 who brake checked (duh?) after the high speed kink further to the right outof shot. Following GTR driver braked, car spears off from right to left. I was there that day, skid marks show in my incar video. GTR was a write off, driver OK.

These pics need to go over to a new non tech thread, pics of crashed race cars we have seen, for a wider audience. Not morbid pics, happy ones where the car is wrecked but the driver has walked

Torsen does not pollute the diff oil with bits of clutch material. No contest as far as diff bearings etc life goes really.

Federal 595RSR, Kuhmo KU36 and the Dunlops. All good for what you want.

Did not know that, seems like both buyers and sellers get hit. On Visa as a buyer I have to pay a $ conversion fee plus a foreign transaction fee, they don't miss you.

Good stuff Frank Another thing to think about is making the whole rear suspension assembly adjustable up and down, starting with mods to raise the assembly up. Without trying to think it all through my first thought is that this would make rear roll center adjustment more practical. Roll center adjustment, witout altering the ride height at the same time, is a very handy thing to have.

You are a ferret, thats a good thing, great research

I've bought a fair bit of stuff from the US, individual sellers vary a lot in what they will accept and how much, if any, surcharge will be added. I have used my AU Visa, Paypal and a bank deposit into the seller's account, all of which involve some charge or other.

Check out Sia, she is a bit of a nutter but can the girl sing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzjmx63TqiU

My philosopy is to get the mechanical grip right then, and only then, add aero. Seeing the diffuser concept is in theory less potentially problematical than a venturi I will go that way. If the car still tends towards high speed understeer then it probably is the driver, it usually is

Great post Frank, that should be a sticky. Do those mods alter the sweep angle of the arms though? I was under the impression that BMW reduced the sweep angle for motorsport purposes.

So how come the Commies aren't shooting at that Murrican plane he he, nice pics.

Yes, and it looks like we have an answer in a round about way

If the wheels are in front of the diffuser exit I was thinking that when turning they would interfere with the air flow a lot. A deflector should help isolate any variation in air flow from that, as well as do something to reduce wheel induced drag. The thing I like about having a diffuser instead of a venturi is that it should work fairly constantly during variations in ride height and roll. A venturi on the other hand relies on the presence of the ground to form its shape so any variations there would vary its effect quite significantly. My Z presently has a front venturi setup, some times for no obvious reason the car will understeer at high speed in corners, other times it is rock solid.

No interest? To complete the subject for anyone searching later, I'm going to look at a double diffuser design venting into the wheel well areas. The single central design has a venting problem due to it being in front of the engine, there is no low pressure area there like there is in a wheel well. The pic below illustrates what I have in mind but note I don't want to vent in front of the wheels, just between them and the engine. There are high pressure areas in front of wheels, I'll be looking at some sort of curved air deflector in front of them.

A bigmouth air dam like that is completely counter productive, it brings far too much air into the engine bay which causes front end lift at speed. Needs ~ the top two thirds of that opening blocking off.