260DET

Enkei 17x8.5 with 235's F, 17x9.5 with 255's R.

Oooops, and looking at blueovalz's experiences it would seem better to raise the inners rather than lower the outers. Not too difficult as far as structural mods go.

Yeh thats my two seater in the background, better pic of it here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138065

Make of the front spoiler? Its a modded AU domestic one, not bad but not wide enough for those wheels.

Instead of raising the inner pivot points, has anyone looked at lowering the outer pivot points instead? Just an idea, I no longer have a S30, with the Nissan multilink rear suspension there are aftermarket outer ball joints that mount lower than stock so raising the roll center.

SSR Longchamps above, the best. Meanwhile below we have a set of Jongbloed super light racing wheels a mate imported from the US. Don't know the sizes, tyres are Toyo R1 semi slicks.

Its a 280ZX booster, similar to the later S30 ones. Problem is that its been reconditioned but no one knows what reaction disc to put in it, apparently there are several that will fit. So I need info on the right disc or else a new replacement booster that will bolt up without mods. With the wrong reaction disc the car either stands on its nose when the brakes are applied or else you have to push yourself through the seat back to get some retardation. The other thing is unbolting the booster from inside the car which has now been done several times, not a fun job.

I'd go with Johnc's suspension package and definately do big brakes all round. Drums at the rear are archaic for what you are doing, that should be a priority.

Can't help sorry but from what I've seen and experienced spec for spec a S30 is superior to a comparitive Porsche.

Always found it interesting that raising the front static roll center to compensate for lowering the car is a common practice, yet no account of the effect of lowering on the rear roll center was usually taken. Its my understanding that the rear center should be a few inches higher than the front so lowering as above messes with that idea. I suspect that a lowered S30 could be made to handle better on a circuit with its roll centers adjusted as above but never got round to it myself. EG it would not require such heavy ARB's as some seem to find necessary and so avoid the substantial weight transfer that heavy ARB's contribute to outside wheel loads.

The blue anti roll bar pictured below has its arms welded to a hollow bar which should be spring steel. There are stick welding rods available which it is claimed are suitable for such welding, 303 I think is one. But rather than rely completely on just weld to hold such arms, I'm thinking of deforming each end of a hollow bar cold and having arms which have a matching hole which can be forced over the deformed part and then welded. Or is that overkill, keeping in mind that I don't have any heat treatment etc knowledge.

Jon's design is a good one but I like the idea of fabricated arms which can be drilled for some adjustability. So I'm going to shift a question on welding the arms to the bar as done in the blue one pictured above over to Welding/Fabrication. .

Nissan uses double roll pins eg in Z32 gearboxes. Its a standard upgrade for early boxes that did not have doubles.

Is your setup similar to what Tube80z mentioned in this thread Jon? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105596 Here is a pic of another solution, only thing is I'm not sure about welding the spring steel hollow bar.

For example, the tubular bars here look promising but there is a lack of info as to the mounts http://www.howeracing.com/Suspension/Index-Stabilizer-93Up.htm Are those eye things the mounts? How?

Thats anti roll bar, stabiliser bar, roll bar, whatever. Poly bushes may be an improvement over stock but after testing its obvious that the front ARB on my S14 suspension 280ZX circuit car and its mounts have to be upgraded. Under heavy load poly bushes squash out allowing the ARB to move rather than twist. I do have a spare JDM 32mm hollow bar which could be used, providing it can be mounted using bushes that don't deform significantly. Or perhaps a universal type bar with removeable arms may be better, although a hollow bar for weight saving is preferable. So who has tried what and can recommend something? Either a universal type kit or perhaps some material which can be machined to make bushes that don't squash out. That is the preferred option but I'm willing to buy a kit if it is the ultimate solution.

Does anyone think that wing (those wings?) could land you in trouble? I don't like the idea of some independant 'mind' deciding how much downforce on which side to apply at any given moment, it may not be 'thinking' what I am. No, there are better performance enhancement things to claim my paltry budget, will give that one a miss.

Steel do you think? Never seen them before, be nice if they were aluminium.

Exactly. And the same thing applies to the 280ZX. Replace the entire front forward of the bonnet with a one piece slotted type front end, big wheels and tyres without flares, tidy up the back end a bit and there you have it. Which reminds me, must do pics of mine which is now finished.

Not into drag racing myself but that looks impressive, no drama just lots of acceleration. I was going to build a circuit racing VG33ET engined 280ZX but was not confident that the stock cast crank would survive and have been told that the VG30DE/TT forged crank won't fit at the front. So used a JDM VG30DET (GT35R) engine instead. So some details on your bottom end?

Will take more pics once the tyres are mounted and I'm out doing some racing. Camera flash is crap inside.

8.5 fronts, 9.5 rears, Bridgestone semis to be fitted next week then track time

Enkei 17" race wheels clear the 280ZX's big front brakes, now to get the tyres fitted, Bridgestone RE55's.

The best weight loss interior parts to remove are the heater/ventilation parts in the dash and the original seats. The original steering wheel is also quite heavy. You probably won't notice the difference but it obviously all helps which is why its done. Then you add the weight back in by strengthening the body

For practical reasons some airflow under the car is required to cool the transmission components etc, unless additional coolers are used. But such airflow should come from the front via an undertray. If an undertray is designed to take advantage of the Bernoulli effect then such airflow generates downforce, not lift. This takes advantage of the situation often found with a road car where the front spoiler is located higher to avoid damage from speed bumps etc.