260DET

Have decided to use Scat rods, mainly because a local race Z32 uses them and has had no problems. Basically using aftermarket because they are lighter plus Scat and Eagle are not expensive. Relatively Nice work on that Z32, thanks Matt.

And there is this one. Should be mounted as far back as possible?

Rear, for the 280ZX coupe. Considering drag and downforce, reasons why would be useful too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7RSW1 Like the look of the first one but am guessing the whale tails would work better. Perhaps a rearward extension plus Gurney lip on the first one?

Pics of race car with VQ?

Locally available dyno tuning by someone familiar with a system is most important. So see who does what and are physically accessible to you. Unless you want to DIY which I think is a second rate option unless you are good at it.

Thanks all, now he is questioning my choice of Wiseco pistons

Was thinking of using Eagle rods for my 500whp engine build but a mechanic doubts they will be good enough. He says Carillos, I say its OK for you but I'm the one spending the money. Experiences?

Looking through the Z32 workshop manual I noticed that the autos had slightly different cams. Seeing mine is a JDM auto engine......

The RB20DET would be last on the list for me. Pissy little motor.

Randy, you don't have any bias problems doing that?

So how do the Hawk Blues work cold?

Considering this brand for the big brake setup on the S130 grunter project. Road and track use. The R4S may not be adequate it seems, looking at the new R11 compound they start working effectively ~250 degrees F. I'm thinking brakes probably get up to that temperature around town but highway driving is a concern, an emergency stop may find the brakes not hot enough to work properly. Incidentially the R11's keep working up to 1800 degrees F which is useful Anyone looked into this or had any road experience with race brakes that need heat to work properly? Porterfield here http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html

Thanks Jon, so you think the VLSD 'axles' may be stronger? One is longer than the other I think.

The short splined axles that fit into each side of the diff is what I'm on about.

How does that cruise control work? Is it set to engine rpm or what EDIT Did a google, apparently off a supplied speed sensor or a speedo cable drive adaptor. Good thing to have on long trips.

Any difference in strength between the open and VLSD diff stub axles? The VLSD I have has the six bolt CV type stubs. The VLSD stubs are longer? As there is a Quaife going in and they are different for the VLSD, I'd like to use whichever stubs are the strongest and get the appropriate Quaife.

Yeh, looks a bit modern, relatively. Depends of course on what look you want, lotsa personal taste too. My vents were welded in, did this about 9 years ago and still like it.

Only sources are the use of the VG30DET in JDM cars other than the 300ZR, which is a choice car BTW.

Very much doubt it, basically the early VG30DET's did not, the later ones did. Don't ask me to define early and late.

Not much response eh The only thing I know is that the Crane Hi systems have a good reputation. A Hi 6 would be my choice for a high performance Nissan 6 that has a distributor.

It may help if you do a link to a site featuring that ignition, just a suggestion.

Found a figure for the TT cam lift, just have to measure a DET cam now and compare

Did a bit of a google on this OBX Racing Sports lot. Their website is 'under construction' and they are named as a knock off maker here http://wwwc.house.gov/smbiz/hearings/databaseDrivenHearingsSystem/displayTestimony.asp?hearingIdDateFormat=060720&testimonyId=594

Reviving this thread, did anyone end up getting a front bumper/spoiler from Aerotech, NZ? Anyone from AU? Because I have to get one soon, if not from AU then NZ like the one below.

The Koni threaded sleeves and nuts are also readily available, plus King make a big range of springs to suit.