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260DET

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Everything posted by 260DET

  1. With the S30 I found that adding a brace across the body underneath connecting the two tension rod pickup points on the rails helped stability under heavy braking at high speed. That was with an upgraded brake system, guess it would benefit the stock system too.
  2. Yeh pics would be good, but not too much detail or someone might copy your work TT's cleared the rails OK?
  3. Thats true but its hardly a practical solution to the problem here without suggesting a specific and suitable pad material combination. On the other hand a bias adjuster allows anyone to simply adjust the problem away.
  4. Would not use steel braided hose myself, you can't see if the rubber hose itself is damaged or deteriorated.
  5. By fitting the twin piston calipers to the front you have altered the front/rear bias, more piston area on the front than stock. So fit a bias adjuster, or lump it The extra bias to the front makes the brakes feel a lot more effective too, you tend to get more front end dive when the brakes are applied hard.
  6. Topic cop eh, well it may be of interest to some to see the comparable weights of other Nissan motors. I for one was surprised to see how much heavier the ally block V8 was than the 6 cylinder iron blocks. Happy now?
  7. Yeh its funny, got those wheels and tyres cheap to roll the car around on. Now everyone says how great they look
  8. 350lbs converts to 159kg. Weight of the iron block VG30DE is ~150kg without the accessory bits you mention.
  9. TT sounds great, yeh, I've got a twin turbo, but a single BB turbo is the go if we are being practical and KISS.
  10. Thats the thing exactly, say no more. As far as the capacity of the S30 rear end itself to handle power goes, using available aftermarket parts including rod ended wishbones and beefing up the diff mounting arrangement, what, 4-500WHP??? Basically whatever a R200LSD will handle??? EDIT: But with 4/500WHP no problem using a S13/14 rear end, should work OK with an upgraded S30 front.
  11. Bush mechanics way is to work out the max amps draw possible on the particular circuit and then use a fuseable link/circuit breaker capable of a bit more than that. My project car is being rewired so auto resetting circuit breakers are being used instead of fuseable links. But the setup above is a good alternative.
  12. If its a Nissan engine issue, stick a Nissan V8 in it
  13. What I should have added was that it would be difficult and expensive to fit a S14 front to a S30. Rear located steering rack will from memory foul a L engine's sump, front located tension rods will require significant chassis structural work, probably other things as well. Can't see the point in fitting a S14 rear either, unless it is part of a complete performance upgrade including chassis stiffening, the stock S30 rear is very good for the age of the S30's design.
  14. My 280ZX project car has had a S14 front and rear suspension transplant, which of course gives it five stud hubs and power steering. The S14 front is better than the S30 setup not surprisingly, for a start the steering rack is behind the Xmember. The shorter Tein struts I was going to use had camber adjustment where the strut bolts to the hub assembly. The pic below shows a trial fit with the Teins, the wheels are 17x8".
  15. Big Z's setup owns mine, love both needles pointing down like that. There were 300kph speedos for sale in Japan a while ago, Mr Google may dig something up.
  16. Another alternative is the JDM VG30DET, the single turbo engine I'm using in my project. Subject to frame rail/body clearance, a GT32R turbo will bolt on and with your other mods should do close to 500 at the wheels. A GT40 will certainly do it and more. You could use bits off the VG30DE such as mounts too. Hope you are enjoying Iraq
  17. The shifter linkage looks to be similar to that on a Z32 box, its that universal jointed part you can see through the shift hole. So its way too far back as is, my guess is the builder will cut it off at the uni joint and fab up something to mount it there.
  18. My new engine and turbo were run in on a rolling road type dyno. At first under load at 3-4000rpm you could see a blue haze coming out of the exhaust pipe, then after just a few minutes the haze disappeared. The engine was then tuned including running up to max revs. Turned out to be a good engine, never used any oil.
  19. Oh yes lots of fun, not Mine will be similar to Guy's, except a whole new back will have to be made because the VDO speedo and tach are just a bit too small to fit into the stock circles. Using the VDO stuff because its electronic and adaptable to any setup although it does not look as good as the Autometer gear. But the VDO speedo reads to 300kph which is some compensation
  20. Basically, wider front track gives better turn in, wider rear track gives better power down.
  21. This one is in a S130/280ZX coupe which will be used for road and circuit. The design was subject to AU road legal constraints, the door bars can't obstruct occupant exit for example. The hoop locates behind the driver's seat so head contact with any bars is unlikely while the hoop V brace allows good rear vision. Note that the hoop is tagged into the body at several points to increase body rigidity and that there are other (hidden) structural additions.
  22. Good for you Kiwi for trying the OBX unit, got my fingers x for you.
  23. Be careful using Teins, they are a quality product but the Japanese have a habit of valving and springing them way too hard for ordinary road use. Basically they appeal to the name JDM market where a cool ride is a hard drift type setup. Konis for one are much more suitable.
  24. I'm fairly sure that Jon has commented on that box before. Recall something about the shift lever mechanism being suitable for a short movement conversion of a Z box.
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