slownrusty

I am running AN fittings on mine with O-rings, thats how they are tapped from the Aeromotive not with NPT. Hope that helps. Yasin

Nice kit....great price, boy if that was in aluminum......!!! Yasin

Sorry for the re-post.....

Enjoy (some of you may have seen this before), its krazzzeee with a "K"! Engine is the all aluminum Nissan VH45 except with some added fruit punch for a little bit more flavor......! Yasin

Great pics - good quality! Great to see more pics of the ZT240 car and also great to see a DR30 Skyline in the lineup. Yasin

Awesome...hope the Doc is able to complete all medical work and recovery is speedy enough for the upcoming weekend! Regards - Yasin

Excellent work.....look forward to future updates. Yaisn

Wow Great numbers......makes me want to go out and buy a SDS! Yasin

You Guys will love this: http://69.56.161.148/corsicawheelie.wmv Yasin

Awesome pics and I loved the captions...great sense of humor too! Thanks for sharing - Yasin

Man that is a bummer....I feel for you! I am making the big trek across country (okay well three states anyway) to MSA this year and was hoping to see your 'Goose. I say put an ouch sticker and a bandaid on it, make it a good conversational point as people will be drawn to you car no matter what and you may a few laughs. Before you know it, it will be all fixed and be yesterday's memory. Hope you change your mind Regards - Yasin

Any pics to share?? Yasin

check my site....I have a section on there: http://www.picturetrail.com/slownrusty Hope that helps! Regards - Yasin

First of all. Why don't you do a leak down and or a compression test. That way you'll know for sure if your HG is gone or on its way out. Once the head is off. Check the deck of the block and the bottom of the head once you have PERFECTLY cleaned it and gotten rid of any pieces of stuck HG. To do this you need a good set of feeler gauges and a perfectly straight edge. Inspect the HG for any blow by, damage etc etc as well. On the block you want less than 2thou of variation on the deck. And the head has to be perfect. Pulling the head on a L is a pain in the ass but as you don't have any emissions and EFI junk, it sould be alot faster than the post '75 cars, natually drop your exhaust and pull the headers first. You need some good wobbly extensions and deep sockets. Bank on spending a full morning and a bit of the afternoon to pull the head and having an extra pair of hands really does help as the L head is heavy. Good luck - Yasin

Congrats...beautiful and very clean car. Welcome to ownership to a vehicle that will introduce you to: 1) Buyer's remorse 2) Make you say over and over "I can't believe I just spent that much on...." 3) Make you also say "what did I just freaking do...." 4) Make you loose a fair bit of skin, blood, knuckles 5) Loss of time...money...time...money...time...money But....at the same time introduce you: 1) A new level of patience 2) Gratification that no dollar amount can ever equate to 3) A car that is recognized world over as a true and ever desirable classic 4) A driving experience that will have you hooked for life. 5) A smile that brings that 14year old boy out every time you sit in the car and fire it 6) When you park it at the mall, movie theatre or wherever you look over your shoulder as you walk away and feel the greatest sense of pride. I would not in a million years trade Z ownership. I just can;t believe it took me so long to finally buy mine. Well good luck and post with more updates. Yasin

On my Turbo Corolla I am running an ext. TiAL 45mm and I am dumping to atmosphere, its not too bad, and sounds actually pretty neat...my passengers always feel we are getting ready to take off. Yasin

Nice reply Cyrus! You know the old joke.....What does a 900hp, a 600hp and 450hp Supra TT have in common? They all run 12s Yasin

Its amazing how the seller does not mention the fact that under the hood is barbq'd....(might be a battery that exploded...who knows?) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6397&item=2470648489 Nice bright pic too: Good old eBay. Yasin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50454&item=2469895898 Look extremely well made and very beefy. I bought my RCAs from this seller and they were beautifully made. He had an RB26 in a 240Z that was sold last summer to someone in the LA area. Regards - Yasin

How to Install a Corbeau Seat And Stock Seatbelts In A Z? Does anyone know if I can use the stock seatbelts with when using a Corbeau seat? Or do I need one of their harnesses, if so how does the harness mount bolt to the car? I would like to get this seat and re-use my stock seatbelts: without buying this harness: Hope someone can shed some light! Regards - Yasin

ARP sell single replacement studs. Their tech support number is listed on their website and is very knowledgeable and friendly. I have spoken to them MANY times! You need to dry those holes 101% before putting those studs in, with a rag, with a vauum, turning the block upside down, what ever you can do. And you don't need me to tell you this, but building a serious engine, 4am and 5% operational brain is a BAD mix my friend. Good luck. Yasin

Boy....I feel for you guys in CA....yikes.... Yasin

HRE Wheels are nothing short of ture "Metal Sculpture" and "Automotive Art". I would love to have a set on my ZXT, but the prices make me shudder. In my younger more violent spending days I would have bought a set without thinking twice, fast forward to now, a wife, a mortgage and bills....well I have to settle for Honda Wheels and adapters.... Oh well, c'est la vie! Regards - Yasin

All ARP studs are to be hand tightened....do not use back to back nuts or any type of tool to tighthen them down.....just hand tight fellas. Here is a word of caution, sometimes oil or fluid gets down in the hole and creates a hydraulic pressure against the stud that you are trying to run down (by hand), causing the misconception that the stud is all the way down in the hole, when really it is not. this is why you may have a few studs higher than the others + you mentioned you used a whole can of WD40!!?? With the ARPs, all you need to do is make you chase the threads once only and make sure the holes are bone dry. When you run the studs in by hand all you need is a dab of 30weight oil (preferred over the ARP Moly Slip grease). I hope that helps. I am building a serious turbo Toyota engine right now with ARPs and all the good stuff. Best regards - Yasin

Sounds fun.....when, where.....someone bring a digi and video cam! Great idea. Yasin